ON AUG 12, 2014 a small setback occurred. This blog with inputs from July 5 – Aug 12, 2014 was erased. It was my error – I think – at any rate it was gone. However, I did have a backup in WORD that I’ve posted below without pictures. The backup through Aug 11 is about 99% of what was posted – some edits online are not reflected in the WORD document. Pictures were added back starting August 8.
The incident was reminiscent of the time back in 1989 when I lost the entire AT Training Circular for the 1-121 FA on a state computer. There I started over – most was on a hand written scribble. Also reminiscent of an entire term paper for an Internantional Law course in the mid 90’s – irretrievable – that I think was a near tragedy.
The blog accepts pictures that are uploaded directly to the blog from an external source, such as my pc. They cannot be transferred from WORD – tried that back in May – NO- GO. The process of importing, posting and arranging the photos is very time consuming. I have the photos on my pc but no attempt will be made to recreate the photos as they may remain in your memory. I hope you enjoyed them the first time.
as Dean Martin said “memories are made of this” or Jon Bon Jovi “you want to make a memory” . . . . . .in Canada on August 12, 2014 the pictures went down Memory Road . . . . .
SATURDAY – July 5, 2014 .
WEATHER: 70’s - 80’s clear
TRAVEL: Burlington – Woodside RV Park Streetsboro, OH This was a 355 mile drive. This place was very crowded. Most people I’ve seen – of course the weather was great and it was a holiday weekend. My neighbors were from Woodstock, Illinois. He was an electrician, she was part time NCO in the 115th Fighter Wing, Madison, WI ANG. Two children and a 3 month old baby. They were on vacation going to
Niagara Falls. Very enjoyable conversations.
My friend Jon drove up from Mansfield, OH. This was planned for sometime – he stayed over and we plan to go to the Cleveland game on Sunday.
Outstanding fireworks display at Woodside. We watched with our neighbors. Other than the holiday weekend – now we knew why this place was so crowded. Easily at $25-30k display.
SUNDAY – July 6, 2014
WEATHER: 70’s - 80’s clear
TRAVEL: Burlington – Woodside RV Park Streetsboro, OH This was a 355 mile drive.
SUNDAY MASS at St. Mary’s Church 9:30 am – Hudson, OH
Breakfast at Bob Evans in Streetsboro.
CLEVELAND INDIANS vs KANSAS CITY ROYALES Progessive Park 1:05 pm
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| Progressive Park - Jon & self |
Jon drove to Cleveland. A downtown ball park – next to the stadium the Cavaliers play in. Indians won 4-1. Parking was easy. I had a $2 16 oz PBR at the Tilted Kilt just before the game. This is a good ballpark -comparable to Philadelphia. Good vendors – took pride in what they did – and a very close second to Philadelphia for best ball park. These were great seats!
MONDAY – July 7, 2014
WEATHER: 70 at 5 am by 7 there were clouds and distant thunder - supposed to storm this evening
TRAVEL: Woodside RV Park Streetsboro, OH to downtown Cleveland. This is about a 35 mile one way trip 45 minutes – about a half mile from the ball park and a block away from where the Browns play. The Rock & Roll Hall is next door to the Science Museum – you can park in the Museum’s structure for $8.
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| Rock & Roll Hall of Fame |
ROCK AND ROLL HALL OF FAME (Cleveland, OH)
Plan a full day if you plan to visit the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, mostly because you can view films and listen to music. I wasn’t there for any live shows, but got there at when it opened at 10am and stayed until 4pm - did not see all but saw all that I wanted to see.
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| Les Paul |
The following musicians TELECASTERS are on display:
Muddy Waters – 1958 Albert Collins – 1966 Roy Orbison – 1973
Curtis Mayfield – 1969 John Mellancamp – 1976
Leo Fender introduced the Telecaster. It was the first Fender electric solid body and displayed the distinctive Fender head at the end of the guitar neck.
Level 2 features exhibits on Les Paul, Alan Freed and Sam Phillips – also a film on how MTV killed the radio star.
Level 3 has a 1hour 20 min 3 screen combining film footage about all the inductees since 1986.
Too many to name but I will name my favorite(s) from each year:
1986 - The Everly Brothers. Buddy Holly, Elvis Presley, Ray Charles, James Brown, Chuck Berry
1987 - Marvin Gaye, Ricky Nelson, Roy Orbison, B.B. King
1988 - The Beatles, Bob Dylan, The Drifters, The Supremes, The Beach Boys
1989 - Otis Redding, The Rolling Stones,
1990 - Bobby Darin, The Kinks, Simon & Garfunkel, The Who
1991 - The Byrds, Wilson Pickett
1992 - Johhny Cash, Jimi Hendrix Experience, Sam & Dave, The Yardbirds, Booker T & the MGs
1993 - Cream, The Doors, Sly and the Family Stone, Van Morrison
1994 - The Animals, Grateful Dead, Rod Stewart
1995 - The Allman Brothers Band, Janis Joplin, Led Zeppelin
1996 - Jefferson Airplane, Pink Floyd
1997 - Buffalo Springfield, CSN, Joni Mitchell, The Rascals
1998 - Fleetwood Mac, Mama & Papas, Santana
1999 - Bruce Springsteen, Billy Joel, Del Shannon, Curtis Mayfield
2000 - Eric Clapton, Lovin’ Spoonful, James Taylor
2001 - Steely Dan, Queen
2002 - Brenda Lee, Gene Pitney
2003 - The Righteous Brothers, The Police
2004 - George Harrison, Traffic, Bob Seger
2005 - U2
2006 - Miles Davis, Lynyrd Skynard
2007 - Van Halen, The Ronnettes
2008 - Leonard Cohen, John Mellancamp
2009 - Jeff Beck
2010 - The Hollies, ABBA, Genesis
2011 - Neil Diamond
2012 - Donovan, Guns n’ Roses, Laura Nyro
2013 - Heart, Rush
2014 - Cat Stevens, Linda Ronstadt
Didn’t think that it would take that long – quite a list.
Maybe a few are missing????? - - - -- - like Steve Miller
Level 4 has an exhibit dedicated to Roger Waters/Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” – really not much here – props from the movie – no music either - and a current 2 hours HBO special on the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame inductees produced by Tom Hanks. Great stuff in the movie from CSN, Simon & Garfunkel, Bruce Springsteen, Billy Joel and others – a very good film – it starts with Jerry Lee Lewis singing “Whole Lot of Shaking Going On” – not quite like the early films he did but he still kicked the piano bench at the end of the song.
Level 5 & 6 introduced the Music Festival Experience – yes that is where many musicians play on multiple stages: Woodstock, Newport Jazz Festival, Live Aid, Lollapallooza, Bonaroo, Wattstax, Essence, South by Southwest. - - - - the experience is dancing, camping, listening to music, eating, discovering new music and spending time with friends.
It’s good to listen to music . . . . . almost any kind of music – not just rock & roll ------
TUESDAY – July 8, 2014
WEATHER: 70’s – 80’s with periods of very, very hard rain – rain on and off all day – tornadoes in the area
TRAVEL: 25 minutes to Cuyahoga NP, another 30 to Garfield NHS, about 40 from Garfield to First Ladies NHS and the Football Hall of Fame. Hit a Grand Slam today – a NP, 2 NHSs and the Football Hall of Fame.
48 CUYAHOGA VALLEY - NP (Peninsula, OH)
The winding Cuyahoga River – the “crooked river,” as named by American Indians – gives way to rolling floodplain, steep valley walls and ravines, and lush upland forests. Park trails from rugged backcountry hiking trails to the Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath Trail, offer excellent hiking and biking opportunities.
Basically in an urban sprawl this park has an interesting history. It does offer a lot of hiking and biking and of course history – a place of peace.
49 JAMES A GARFIELD - NHS (Mentor OH)
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| James A Garfield National Historic Site |
accommodate his large family. Four years after Garfield’s assassination in September, 1881, the Memorial Library wing was added by Mrs. Garfield and her family – creating the first Presidential Library.
It is interesting, that this Library, like the Lincoln Library in Springfield in IL, is not part of the Presidential Libraries of the National Archives. Those include:
Hoover - West Branch, IA FDR – Hyde Park, NY Truman – Independence, MO
Eisenhower – Abilene, KS Kennedy – Boston, MA LB Johnson – Austin, TX
Nixon – Yorba Linda, CA Ford – Grand Rapids, MI Carter – Atlanta, GA
Reagan – Simi Valley, CA Clinton – Little Rock, AR G Bush – College Station, TX
GW Bush – Dallas, TX
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| Garfield House - Front |
When the Confederate Army attacked Fort Sumter, James A Garfield was a state senator living in Columbus, Ohio. Rather than enlist, he waited for a commission which came several months later as lieutenant colonel of the 42nd Ohio Volunteer Infantry. In December, 1861, newly promoted Colonel Garfield received his orders to advance the 42nd OVI to eastern Kentucky. A regiment of confederates had been advancing northeast to the vicinity of Louisville. Garfield moved his command south, down the Big Sandy River and engaged the Confederates at Paintsville. He succeeded in driving the Confederates backwards to Middle Creek, where he ordered an all out assault. The battle ended in a draw, however, the confederates burned their supplies and retreated to Virginia. With his success at Middle Creek , Garfield earned a promotion to brigadier general (remember this battle was a draw). A year later , he accepted an offer from General William Rosecrans to be Chief of staff for the Army of the Cumberland. At the Battle of Chickamauga, General Garfield rode through enemy fire to reach the left flank commanded by General George Thomas to remind him that the remainder of the Union Army had fled. At the urging of Lincoln, who needed more republicans in the House, Garfield left the army in October 1863 to take his place in Congress as a newly elected representative.
Garfield served in the Congress for 17 years. As head of the House Appropriations Committee from 1871-75 he managed the country’s finances, reduced government spending and fought inflation.
Elected to the US Senate in January 1880, he was asked to nominate John Sherman for president at the Republican National Convention in Chicago. When the convention deadlocked , Garfield became the nominee. He was elected 20th US President and inaugurated in March 1881. His term was cut short on July 2 when he was assassinated by Charles Guiteau, a political fanatic. Garfield died on September 19.
50 FIRST LADIES - NHS (Canton, OH)
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| First Ladies Saxton-McKinley House |
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| First Ladies |
“There is one secret and that is the power we all have in forming our own destinies. “
Dolley Madison
WHO IS ThE FIRST LADY?
“. . . this was the wife of the President and she took precedence over me; my personal likes and dislikes must be subordinated to the consideration of those things which are required of her”
Grace Coolidge
WHAT DOES SHE DO?
“[The role of the First Lady is] . . . much more of a 24 hours job than anyone would guess. Now I realize what they’ve had to put up with, I have a new respect and admiration for everyone of them.”
Betty Ford
POLITIAL REFORMER
“I am in a position where I can do the most good to help the most people.”
Eleanor Roosevelt
This was an interesting site spread out between 2 buildings in downtown Canton. There is a parking lot where you have to ask for access right next to the Saxton-McKinley House. Tours are provided to the main library building and then continued with the Saxton McKinley House. Allow 2-3 hours.
The Saxton-McKinley House is where William and Ida McKinley lived when he practiced law and spent 14 years in Congress. The home is a restored high-Victorian example of how people lived there in the 1880.s
Canton, Ohio, is proud to have been home to one of eight Ohio presidents from 1867 to 1923. (The other seven are; William Henry Harrison, Ulysses S. Grant, Rutherford B. Hayes, James A. Garfield, Benjamin Harrison, William Howard Taft, and Warren G. Harding) Born in Niles, Ohio, It was from his Canton home that William McKinley built his career as lawyer, prosecuting attorney, congressman, governor and president. William McKinley and his wife, Ida Saxton McKinley of Canton, spent many years of their married lives living in the Saxton family home which serves as the home of the National First Ladies Library, located at 331 Market Avenue South.
It was at the beginning of McKinley’s second presidential term when assassin Leon Czolgosz took the president's life in Buffalo, New York. The McKinley National Memorial is a classic and beautiful memorial to the president and his family, who are entombed here. I did not visit the gravesite Memorial of the museum/Library.
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| Pro Football Hall of Fame |
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| Pro Football Hall of Fame |
PRO FOOTBALL HALL OF FAME
( Canton, OH)
This was a letdown. I got there around 5 – they’re open until 8 in the summer – it just didn’t seem friendly. I did tour the gift shop – thinking I may find something unique for the Rotary Roundup Auction – but nothing exciting unless you like t-shirts and caps . . . . . . I thought – maybe tomorrow – maybe not - $18 admission – probably could spend 3 hours there.
WEDNESDAY - July 9, 2014
WEATHER: 70’s it did rain during the night and around 6 pm
TRAVEL: Short hops through the valley
CUYAHOGA VALLEY - NP (Peninsula, OH)
The winding Cuyahooga River – the “crooked river,” as named by American Indians – gives way to rolling floodplain, steep valley walls and ravines, and lush upland forests. Park trails from rugged backcountry hiking trails to the Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath Trail, offer excellent hiking and biking opportunities.
THIS IS A BIKER”S PARADISE
Choices – Football Hall of Fame or the Cuyahoga Scenic Railroad. I chose the railroad. A 3 hour ride from ROCKSIDE STATION TO AKRON STATION and back again. Since this followed the railroad roadbed, I saw many parts of the park that you would not see by bike or hike or auto. Cost was a well spent $18.
Left at 0730 for a 0900 departure from ROCKSIDE STATION. Where would the National Park Service be without Volunteers? T he train was loaded with them, entertaining people/children with stories and caring. A very good experience. This is interesting because it was closed Monday and Tuesday. I listened to audio tour on the way back from Akron.
A lot of people get on at a station and load their bikes and ride back to where they got on. A $3 /bike charge. This place is great for bicycles.
Station Stops included:
ROCKSIDE – northern terminus – parked my car here
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| Cuyooga Valley Senic Railroad |
BRECKSVILLE
BOSTON MILL – this is where I visited on Tuesday
PENINSULA – also visited this by car
INDIGO LAKE – actually a quarry where the water just decided to get to the surface
BOTZUM
AKRON NORTHESIDE- southern terminus
“If National Parks are to survive, pavement, congestion, and pollution, that the automobile leaves in its wake, a better way of transporting visitors must be found” Historian Alfred Runte 1990 (by the way I bought a book of his book National Parks in Peninsula, OH.
After the train ride, I drove to Tinkers Creek Gorge Lookout,
Brandywine Falls
Peninsula Depot Visitor Center had a beer at the Lizard
Brandywine GC – one of several that are in the park – didn’t find it interesting
Hunt Farm Visitor Center and back to Boulder Creek Golf Club – I may play before I leave tomorrow – depends how I feel.
The area has had it trials and tribulations. A 1913 flood wiped out much of the valley and forver ended the usefulness of the Ohio & Erie Canal.
A beautiful area, but not so pretty in 1969 when there was so much pollution and toxic waste in the river that when a truck crashed into the river – the “river caught on fire.” Cuyahoga (Kar- ih-ogh-ha) means” crooked” in an Indian language. Sculpted by water, glaciers and weather the valley is a sight to see. The Cuyahoga Valley National Park preserves 33,000 acres along 22 miles of this “crooked” river between Cleveland and Akron. Congress created Cuyahoga Valley National Recreation Area in 1974.
In 2000 it attained the status of National Park and with that designation it received a larger budget.
THURSDAY - July 10, 2014
WEATHER: 57 at 5 am – it rained hard again last night
TRAVEL: Woodside Lake RV Park (Streetsboro, OH) to Blue Knob State Park (Imler, PA). This should be a 4 hour 185 mile trip. I was at Blue Knob in April – literally on the top of a mountain – in April there was only one site occupied.
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| Blue Knob State Park - trailer |
FRIDAY - July 11, 2014
WEATHER: 57 for a wakeup – got up to 80 in some places, mostly sunny
TRAVEL: a 36 mile trip took about 45 minutes – the mountain roads can be a challenge
51 ALLEGHENY PORTAGE RAILROAD - NHS (Gallitzin, PA)
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| Allegheny Portage RR - map of the inclines |
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| Map of the Park - Allegheny Portage Railroad |
The portage officially opened on March 18, 1834. The drawback of the system – transfer of freight from the canal boats to railroad cars – was eliminated in the mid 1830’s by the development of split canal boat sections – which allowed the freight to be transferred from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh on the same canal boat. The portage and canal system cut a 23 day trip down to 5.
The portage had its hazards. Boilers exploded and the 3 ½ inch hemp tow ropes broke too often. John Roebling solved the rope problem by suggesting the portage use the new “wire rope” that he was developing. By 1849 wire cable, used by Roebling on the Brooklyn Bridge was used on all the planes.
Despite the new technology , the Portage Railroad was obsolete within a few years. As locomotives grew more powerful and dependable, railroads provided stiffer competition, finally putting most canals out of business.
The Portage Railroad ran from Johnstown to Hollidaysburg. In six hours the boats traveled 36 miles, ascended 1,398 feet and descended 1,172.
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| The Demise of the Allegheny Portage Railroad |
There is a nice boardwalk to a protected engine shed, then a fairly steep walk of a mile down and up the incline 6 to the Skew Arch Bridge and then back up to the Lemon House. A 20 mile drive and a 2 mile one way walk would have taken me to Staple Bend Tunnel. Not really up to a 4 mile walk today – I passed.
On the inclines wood ties were used but on the flat sections stone was used to hold the rails. Note that there is only a strip of iron on wood used the incline rails because it did not have to bear the weight of a heavy locomotive.
BLUE KNOB STATE PARK – they have a blue grass, gospel group from Johnstown playing in the amphitheatre tonight – on any other night I’d attend – but I still am not felling well - haven’t even had a beer today. Think I’d prefer to stay the weekend here.
SATURDAY - July 12, 2014
WEATHER: mostly sunny 70’s -80’s
TRAVEL: Blue Knob State Park (Imler, PA) to Niagara Falls KOA (Grand Island, NY). The 256 mile trip took about 5 hours. There was a very scenic 30 miles along I-99 where the highway ran along but above a valley with the Alleghenies in the distance. This place is a typical KOA – crowded – of course – this is Niagara Falls – and we’re along a highway – just to keep you up at night. Not at all peaceful like Blue Knob. Of course there are full hookups here – I wonder if I’ll even hook up the cable? They have Tengo Internet WIFI here – same as they had in Mackinaw City when my PC died – think I’ll avoid it.
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| St. Stephen's - Grand Island, NYn |
SUNDAY - July 13, 2014
WEATHER: cloudy – humid 70’s -80’s; heavy rain for about 45 minutes when I was driving to TR Inaugural
TRAVEL: about a 35 minute drive
52 THEODORE ROOSEVELT INAUGURAL - NHS (Buffalo, NY)
Interesting – not just a house tour – a historical tour. This house is where Theodore Roosevelt took the oath of office as President of the United States after William McKinley (remember First Ladies - Canton, OH ) died. McKinley was shot twice by Leon Czolgosz on September 9, 1901, during a public reception at the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, NY. Doctors removed one of the bullets, but failed to find to the second, contributing to the development of an infection which killed him eight days later. |
| Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural house |
The façade of the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural looks much as it did on September 14, 1901. It was on that day, following the assassination of McKinley that Theodore Roosevelt took the oath of office as 26th President of the United States at the home of Ansley Wilcox in Buffalo, New York. He took the oath in the library of the house on the first floor.
The house is restored but more as a tribute to Roosevelt than to the family that owned it. There is a fee to enter and take the tour. The lower floor is a tribute to the 1901 Pan American Exposition - a good number of hands-on exhibits. I did not take the test, but probably would have failed to become a ruthless “Captain of Industry” – probably would have made a lower rung union steward or supervisor too kind to the workers – but don’t let the boss find out. Should have taken the test just for giggles.
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| Threodore Roosevelt Inaugural - Issues |
The tour of the home was the first floor good – films – describing much of Roosevelt’s work as Chief Executive. Lots of pictures – never saw one of them with him smiling.
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| Theodore Rossevelt Inaugural - First Modern President |
During Roosevelt’s administrations, he was elected in 1904 – more reform bills were passed than in any other administration since the Civil War. The picture at left highlights his main areas of concern – seems like they still exist today. Theodore Roosevelt is described as energetic, positive, self-confident, and possessed a firm understanding or power politics and the roll America could play in the world. Roosevelt initiated readjustments in the relationships of government and industry(trust buster – The Jungle and FDA)), established a strong policy of conservation (Antiquities Act - national monuments determined by the President), influenced construction of the Panama Canal which helped make the US a world power (the Great White Fleet) and engineered a peace treaty ending the Russo-Japanese War (received the Nobel Peace Price in 1906.
Roosevelt saw himself as “a steward of the people.” “I did not usurp power,” he said, “but I did greatly broaden the use of executive power.”
Finished reading “The Wreck of Edmund Fitzgerald” by Frederick Stonehouse. A story that continues to fascinate us despite that the ship sunk with 29 aboard on November 10, 1975. I just had to buy it – the book- saw it at too many places I visited in the UP of Michigan. Easy read. A lot of USCG testimony and some supposition – theories. No one know exactly why the ship sunk.
. . . . . .
In a musty old hall in Detroit they prayed in the maritime sailor’s cathedral
The church bell chimed ‘til it rang 29 times for each man on the Edmund Fitzgerald
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down, of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
The lake it is said never gives up her dead when the skies of November turn gloomy
Gordon Lightfoot
MONDAY - July 14, 2014
WEATHER: cloudy – humid 70’s -80’s
TRAVEL: bought a $99 ticket for a 2:30 pm American Falls tour – bus picks me up here at the KOA office. I wanted to take the Canadian side tour but it only starts at 5:30 and all he could sell me a look at the falls from a tower – touristy. Just a bit apprehensive. Started reading “National Parks” by Alfred Runte yesterday. Niagara Falls was lost to development, entrepreneurs – people wanting to make a buck – tourist traps – long ago. This will be interesting.
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| Niagara - the American, Horseshoe & Bridal Falls |
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| Cave of the Winds Deck |
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| Bridal Veil Falls Hurricane Deck |
I read a lot today “National Parks“ by Alfred Runte – probably will do the same tomorrow. Feeling better – but thinking I may be able to do without seeing Montreal and Quebec - might head back sooner or change the plan up a bit.
TUESDAY - July 15, 2014
WEATHER: rained last night -cloudy –cleared up in the afternoon high 70’s
TRAVEL: stayed here at the trailer for the most part and read – did laundry – bought some juice, watermelon pieces and a cucumber filled the truck with gas – ready to move tomorrow.
No interest in going to the City of Niagara Falls or Buffalo – been there, done that, don’t want a t-shirt!
“National Parks – An American Experience” is an interesting book – finished it today - not surprising, but it makes me want to watch Ken Burns documentary on the National Parks. It is a history . . . . politics and business – always about money – economics and politics
“Why should we go to Switzerland to see mountains or to Iceland for geysers? Thirty years ago the attraction of America to the foreign mind was Niagara Falls. Now we have attractions which diminish Niagara into an ordinary exhibition.” New York Herald, 1872 p 11
“Scenery was a cultural asset.” p 11 Yellowstone National Park was the first National Park established in 1872. It was “huge approximately 3,500 square miles and overlapped three territories, the federal government retained absolute jurisdiction.” p 29
Originally and up until the 1930’s Congress authorized National Parks because the land was worthless – “The only scenery of consequence was the mountains . . . only mountains and canyons should be national parks” p 129
The US Forest Service and those who proposed National Parks were almost always in conflict. The US Forest Service embraced “utilitarian conservation” trees could be re-grown, hence the redwoods were cut and many sequoias. They favored use of the land. Minerals in proposed park lands could be mined, prairies were used for grazing or watersheds damned to provide irrigation water for fields. Later, the US Forest Service was joined in its use of land philosophy by the Bureau of Land Reclamation and the US Fish & Wildlife Service.
In reference to Glacier National Park, in 1910 a senator voiced, “is one of the grandest scenic sections of the United States, absolutely unfit for cultivation or habitation and as far as I know not possessing any mineral resources.” P 69
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| National Park Service Sites |
Congress, always swayed by money, business interests, and votes regarding National Parks did pass the Antiquities Act of 1906. Theodore Roosevelt signed it into law on June 8, 1906. The law gave the President the authority to, by executive order, restrict the use of particular public land owned by the federal government. These lands were given the title National Monuments. It also allowed to President to reserve or accept private lands for that purpose. TR first used the act to proclaim Devils Tower National Monument on September 24, 1906. Some of these NMs have been upgraded to National Parks.
“preservation of natural environments was an afterthought of the 20th century” p 125
“No less than Niagara Falls . . .Yosemite invited the same urge to capitalize on its scenic grandeur. . . . The commercialization of Niagara Falls . . . ‘Let it not be said by any visitor . . . that (Yosemite Valley) is a new Niagara for extortion and impositions – a rocky pitfall for the unwary, a Slough of Despond for the timid and weak.” p 145 The Yosemite Park Act was passed in 1864. Yosemite became a National Park in 1890.
“In a 1974, a survey conducted by . . . an agency of the Dept of Commerce, only Grand Canyon and Yellowstone ranked higher than Niagara in visitor appeal. . . . troubling . . . was how Niagara had maintained its status. By 1974, everything about the cataract was artificial. During even daylight viewing hours, up to one half the flow of the Niagara River was being diverted around the falls. Between midnight and sunrise, when viewing was minimal , three-fourths of the river made a detour. A major holding reservoir than filled to allow additional releases during periods of peak energy demand. . . . . treaties . . . . to preserve the illusion that Niagara Falls was still flowing at its historical volume.” These still exist today but the tourism hasn’t decreased.
A lot has changed – it always seems politics and money – preservationists – environmentalists – the history of the growth of the National Park idea in last 100 years is interesting – from Theodore Roosevelt and the Antiquities Act of 1903 to especially what to do with Alaska – mining or wilderness – forever shut off to mining or any man made improvement – the growth of the National Park Service, National Parks, National Historic Sites, National Seashores, National Scenic Rivers, Wilderness Areas, National Lakeshores – I may have forgotten a few.
Some years ago I read Aldo Leopold’s “A Sand County Almanac” for a graduate level philosophy class . . . “ Perhaps the most serious obstacle impeding the evolution of a land ethic is the fact that our educational and economic system is headed away from, rather than toward , an intense consciousness of land” Aldo Leopold
National Parks will always be subject to human whim. John Muir stated the case for government protection – “Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot run away; and if they could, they would be destroyed, - chased and hunted down as long as fun or a dollar could be got of their bark hides, branching horns or magnificent bole backbones.” . . . “Through all the wonderful, eventful centuries since Christ’s time – and long before that – God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand straining, leveling tempests and floods; but he cannot save them from fools, only Uncle Sam can do that.” . . . . Imperfect only our humility can uphold their integrity (of the parks), ensuring the timeliness of the national parks as the best idea that America – and the world – ever shared.”
I’m not a necessarily a “tree hugger” – but if the government had not acted my trip would be very short – ok maybe a little hug is in order.
WEDNESDAY - July 16, 2014
WEATHER: partly sunny – 54 in morning got up to 70’s
TRAVEL: never felt so good as to leave Niagara Falls/Grand Island KOA – this place also displayed the “President’s Award” – got to learn to stay away from places with that distinction. Niagara Falls is a tourist trap – overpriced – don’t think I would have missed much if I had never gone there.
It was about 185 miles – a straight shot – 3+ hours drive – my truck must like NY – it’s getting better mileage - to The Villages at Turning Stone – Verona, NY. This place is owned by the Oneida and 20x better than the KOA and 33% less expensive with trees – and trails -and better showers -and more space -and peace -and quiet -and friendly people -and of course there is a casino somewhere – but I couldn’t tell you where – they do have a shuttle for the buffet – entertainment and everything else -and of course golf. This is very nice – you can even here the birds and an occasional train in the distance. Full hookup to include TWC and TWC wirless internet. This is a nice place. Notes the flowers as you drive in . . . .
THURSDAY - July 17, 2014
WEATHER: cloudy – 50’s - got up to mid 60’s rained in the afternoon for about 45 minutes – then it cleared
TRAVEL: about an hour to Women’s Rights NHP in Seneca Falls, NY (back east of here along I-90) – Fort Stanwix NM in Rome, NY is just 10 miles north of where I’m staying
51 WOMEN’S RIGHTS – NHP (Senaca, Falls, NY)
I believe I had heard of Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Women’s Rights, but never would have connected her with Women’s Rights Convention of 1848, Frederick Douglass, Amelia Bloomer, Susan B. Anthony, and a host of other influential people in the late 19th century. In total spent about 3 hours here.
The setting for the First Women’s Rights Convention and the homes of some participants are preserved at Women’s Rights National Historical Park established by Congress in 1980.
A lot of history here, much of what I was not aware . . . The Visitor Center has a a very good and current 25 minute film on the participants of that first convention, comment on the backlash and the struggle for “equal rights” and “suffrage” and it’s also aimed an kids.
Perhaps much like, the Emancipation Proclamation and the following 13th, 14th , and 15th amendments the 19th amendment of 1919 (Women’s Suffrage) didn’t end the prejudice and the struggle. It is a very deep and complex topic. I think the NPS handled this very well. The 2nd floor of the Visitor Center traces the history is a series of exhibits from the 1790’s to the present.
Perhaps much like, the Emancipation Proclamation and the following 13th, 14th , and 15th amendments the 19th amendment of 1919 (Women’s Suffrage) didn’t end the prejudice and the struggle. It is a very deep and complex topic. I think the NPS handled this very well. The 2nd floor of the Visitor Center traces the history is a series of exhibits from the 1790’s to the present.
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| First Women's Rights Convention - The Leaders |
Next door to the Visitor Center is Wesleyan Chapel where the convention of 1948 was held. A busload of Seniors (mostly women) from some home arrived – I tagged along – while a ranger gave a very entertaining and succinct history of the chapel and what has occurred there since. He was very informed, knew what he was talking about and liked his job. The NPS being very precise in restoration has not done much with the chapel because it has no known photos or drawings of what it looked like or contained in 1848.
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| Womesn's Rights |
Frederick Douglass attended the Convention, signed the Declaration of Sentiments and published the them in his newspaper
The story of the Women’s Rights movement is the story of ideas, once controversial, now commonplace.
In 1850 Elizabeth Cady Stanton met Susan B. Anthony in Seneca Falls. They formed an activist team and used temperance and abolitionist gatherings to address women’s issues. Stanton was a gifted writer, while Anthony gave lectures and circulated petitions. “It has been said, that I forged the thunderbolts while she fired them” – Stanton. Stanton published articles in Anthony’s publication The Lily under the pen name “Sunflower.”
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| Woemens' Rights - Elizabeth Cady Stanton Home |
I visited the Elizabeth Cady Stanton Home (she was owner of the home – a gift from her father in 1847) and got a personal tour by the ranger after the seniors left. He husband was a lawyer and politician . . . . . she was home alone a lot with 7 children – The family moved to New York City in 1862. She died in 1902.
54 FORT STANWIX - NM (Rome, NY)
This was a gem. A part of Revolutionary War history that, for the most part, I was unaware
of. This is located in the Mohawk Valley of New York – reminiscent of the film “Drums Along the Mohawk” starring Henry Fonda. Along with Fort Stanwix is the Battle of Oriskany about 6 miles away along the Mohawk River.
The Visitor Center tells the story from 4 perspectives: an Oneida women, a Dutch colonial soldier/patriot, a loyalist Scot fur trader, and the wife of a Dutch colonist/militia patriot. There are two very good short films there that tell the story. The soldiers in this film appear more real than most films i.e. they are almost all young – under 25 – like it really was.
The American Revolution encompassed an eight year span from Concord and Lexington in 1775 to the Treaty of Paris in 1783.
Fort Stanwix was originally built by the British/Colonists during the French and Indian War. It was located on a well worn route called the Oneida Carrying Place between Lake Ondieda/WoodCreek (which led to the Great Lakes- Canada-the Mississippi) and The Mohawk River which lead to the Hudson and New York City. It fell into disrepair but George Washington ordered it to be rebuilt and garrisoned in 1777. It was renamed Fort Schuyler in honor of MG Philip Schuyler (pronounced Skyler) commander of the Army’s Northern Department.
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| Model of Fot Stanwix |
In 1777, British LTC Barry Barry St. Leger (bearing the temporary rank of BG) led an army into the Mohawk Valley as part of MG John Burgoyne’s plan to control New York. The army consisted of 800 British, German, and Canadian soldiers and 800 Indian warriors. Fort Stanwix, strongly defended by 800 Continental soldiers commanded by COL Peter Gansevoort, lacking adequate cannon to take the fort, St. Leger laid siege on August 3.
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| Fort Stanwix Peter Gasnsevoort |
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| Ditch in front of Fort Stanwix |
The Oneida and later Tuscarora were young America’s first allies. They were part of the Six Nations Confederacy (Oneida, Mohawk, Onondaga, Tuscarora, Cayuga, and Seneca). They had lived in peace for hundreds of years until the British and French – at first they remained neutral later they joined sides. They British promised they could keep their land if they won. The Mohawk, Onondaga, Cayuga, and Seneca sided with the British. Similar promises were made by Washington . . . .
The Revolutionary War ended in 1783 but the US and American Indians continued fighting. The terms of 1784 Treaty of Fort Stanwix with the Six Nations Confederacy was dictated by New York where the Indians ceded their lands in Ohio and western Pennsylvania. The deal allowed canals to be dug. Eventually, it led to the opening of the Erie Canal in 1827.
So of course, I’m caught up in this history – bought 2 books: “Bloody Mohawk – The French and Indian War & American Revolution on New York’s Frontier” by Richard Berleth 2010 and “Saratoga – A Military History of the Decisive Campaign of the American Revolution” by John F. Luzader 2008.
I did stop at Turning Stone Casino. A casino is a casino - but, this is truly a resort – I liked it – clean – well kept – not very crowded - had a beer – entertained for an hour with a $5 contribution to the Oneida Nation.
FRIDAY - July 18, 2014
WEATHER: clear – 50’s - supposed to be a beautiful day 70’s up to 80
TRAVEL: changed my itinerary – no need to go to Canada . . . . a couple of reasons: 1) I have my passport but not willing to test the border with expired license plates – even though they are approved on line; 2) extra expense and am unsure if the parks in Montreal and Quebec really made my RV reservations – at any rate I will cancel; 3) unwilling to dispose of my wood – again crossing the border; 4) my purpose is to visit sites in the US managed by the NPS. Enough. I even talked myself back into it. May golf, may go to Cooperstown
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| Cooperstown, NY - Baseball Hall of Fame |
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| Cooperstown - Hank Aaron, Eddie Matthews, & I'm not sure |
A lot of memories for me here . . . . .
“The Hall of Fame is a place of grace and class. . . You Arrive expecting to tour baseball’s past. What you discover is your own. . . It is pictures of places you’ve never been and belongings of people you’ve never met. Yet you are drawn to its scruffed baseballs and gritty photographs as if they were you won. And in a way they are” Bill Pennington, The Record, (NJ)
the Museum traces the history of baseball – a 13 minute film - clears up why it’s America’s game – covers the Negro Leagues – the Women In Baseball – the heritage of Latin American players - gives credit to every team – the storytellers – the mike men of radio - a lot of stuff on Hank Aaron – the actual Hall of Fame Gallery is sort of anti-climatic
The day was perfect – in the 70’s – had some great conversations with people on the street, specifically a guy selling books wearing a Milwaukee Braves cap - I spent over 4 hours in Cooperstown – the Village reminded me of Bayfield, WI lots of shops – some restaurants subdued – not Dells like. Parking is $10 in a lot; or $0.50 for 15 minutes on the street or if you are willing to walk a block further – you can park for free for 2 hours – of course I had to move my truck a twice . . . .
SATURDAY - July 19, 2014
WEATHER: mostly cloudy mid – high 70’s
TRAVEL: About 140 miles – 3 hours from The Villages at Turning Stone, Vernona, NY to Ledgeview Rv Park in Lake George, NY. Back in the mountains. These are the Adirondacks – This park smells good – located in a stand of trimmed pines – it smells good. Sites are good sized, level although not paved, clean restrooms and showers, WIFI is free and it works. Saratoga is about 35 miles down the road.
55 SARATOGA - NHP (Stillwater, NY)
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| Saratoga National Historical Park - Visitor Center |
I misjudged this one – I spent about 45 minutes in the Visitor Center and another 3 ½ hours in the Park and visited the Schuyler House site and Saratoga Monument in Schulyerville another 30-40 minutes and ran out of time. This is a full day visit – there were plenty of trails that I did not venture down because of time. You can drive or bike or walk the 10 mile park trail - - -
Somehow – all the American History courses in high school and college ensure that you remember something about Saratoga and General Burgoyne but they do not do it justice with the mention in a lecture or a sentence or two or a paragraph in a book. This was a big battle and the Turning Point of the Revolutionary War. There is a tie to Fort Stanwix, and General Gates who Congress replaced with General Schuyler, COL Thaddeus Kosciuszko and BG Benedict Arnold – not much mention of Indian allies here. I must describe the story.
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| Saratoga - Freeman Farm Overlook |
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| Saratoga - Freeman Farm Overlook map |
The Visitor Center is not very large but it does have a good film that describes the action that took place in the Battles of Saratoga – an electric map tells a good story showing the movements of the British and American soldiers – you have to get a lay of the land and a feel for what was going on before you start the 10 mile – one way road tour in the park – the road tour takes you part the battlefield sites, camps, and fortifications. I bought the audio tour CD – very helpful – it may be the best I’ve ever purchased.
CAMPAIGN OF 1777 – BACKGROUND TO THE BATTLES OF SARATOGA
The British Plan
BG John Burgoyne believed the Hudson River was the strategic highway through the northeast. His
plan to to move his army south from Canada via Lake Champlain-Hudson River to Albany . A smaller force under COL Barry St. Leger was expected to support him by marching east from Lake Ontario into the upper Mohawk Valley after taking Fort Stanwix. Together they would join Sir William Howe’s sizeable army in New York City – effectively splitting the American colonies in rebellion in half – and isolating the especially revolutionary New Englanders. However, Howe moved against Philadelphia and left under small force under Sir Henry Clinton in New York City. It meant that if Burgoyne/St. Leger needed help, none would be available.
The British Movement
Burgoyne moved down the Hudson with 4,000 British regulars and 3,200 German auxiliaries, and captured Fort Ticonderoga on July 6, 1777. As a result of the fort’s loss, the Continental Congress relieved MG Philip Schuyler from command of the Northern Department and placed MG Horatio Gates in command.
Fort Stanwix, NY – Bennington, VT
COL St Leger laid siege to Fort Stanwix. Upon learning that a strong force under BG Benedict Arnold was coming to the relief of Fort Stanwix, St. Leger raised the siege and returned to Canada. On August 15, 1777 a detachment sent to Bennington, VT by Burgoyne was shattered by GEN John Stark’s and COL Seth Warner’s New England troops inflicting 900 casualties. Burgoyne crossed the Hudson at Saratoga (now Schuylerville, NY) and continued to
advance south until he faced 8,000 Americans commanded by MG Horatio Gates dug in on Bemis Heights. The position was recommended by COL Thaddeus Kosciusko. Kosciusko laid out and supervised construction of the defenses.
THE BATTLES OF SARATOGA
September 19, 1777 – The British advanced in three columns. Two moved to the west in an attempt to outflank the heavily fortified American position. The 3rd under German COL Heinrich Breyman moved along the Hudson River road as a feint mostly to protect the British supplies, with no real attempt to attack the Americans.
The majority of the fighting took place on John Freeman’s Farm. Freeman was a loyalist, and had moved north to join with the invasion force. The battle opened around noon and waged back and forth over the farm for about 3 hours. Then German reinforcements arrived and gradually forced the American’s to withdraw. Burgoyne held the field, but was stopped a mile north of the American lines. He fell back and ordered his troops to dig in waiting for reinforcements from New York City – they would never arrive.
October 7, 1777 – Burgoyne’s situation was growing desperate. His supplies were running low, the American force kept growing stronger with reinforcements and he heard nothing of any support coming to his aid. He risked a second battle and ordered a 1,300 man reconnaissance-in-force with 8 cannon. The British deployed in a wheat field on the Barber Farm, both flanks rested in the woods – venerable to attack.
At 3 pm the Americans attacked in 3 columns under COL Daniel Morgan, Gen Ebenezer Learned and Gen Enoch Poor. Repeatedly, the British line and flanks were broken then rallied and reformed. British Gen Simon Fraser was mortally wounded while encouraging his men to make a stand.
In comes BG Benedict Arnold - - - he previously had an argument with MG Horatio Gates and effectively said he was leaving. Arnold was liked by his officers, intelligent and did not lack courage or daring but he appeared on this field, on horseback (effectively without a command) and led Learned’s Brigade against the troops holding the British center. Under fierce pressure the British withdrew to their fortified positions in the Balcarres and Bryemann Redoubts.
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| Saratoga - Breymann Redoubt - Benedict Arnold's Attack |
The American’s continued to attack. The Balcarres Redoubt (built on the Freeman Farm) was a very strong position. The American’s attacked but failed to carry the position. Benedict Arnold spurred northwest to the Breymann Redoubt. Arriving as the American’s began the assault, he joined the final surge – entering the redoubt he was wounded in the leg. Had he died thee, posterity would have known few brighter names than Benedict Arnold.
Darkness ended the fighting, saving the British from immediate disaster. That night Burgoyne left his campfires burning and withdrew his troops behind the Great Redoubt to the northeast along the Hudson River.
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| Saratoga - Burgoyne's Retreat |
October 17, 1777 – Burgoyne surrendered. Under the terms of the Convention of Saratoga, Burgoyne’s depleted 6,000 man army marched out of its camp “with the Honors of War” and surrendered its arms along the Hudson River’s west bank.
IMPORTANT:
*The first time a British Army had surrendered in the field.
* The American victory encouraged the French to declare war on Britain and join the American cause.
Hope this was a useful history lesson. I’m looking forward to reading “Saratoga – A Military History of the Decisive Campaign of the American Revolution” by John F. Luzader. I purchased the book at Fort Stanwix. It will be more interesting, now that I’ve walked the ground.
Another interesting bit of history – Vermont was an independent republic from 1777 – 1791 when it became part of the United States.
SUNDAY - July 20, 2014
WEATHER: partly sunny – 50’s in morning got up to 70’s
TRAVEL: About 90 miles from Ledgeview RV Park, Lake George, NY to Quechee Pine Valley KOA, White River Junction Vermont. A 3 hour drive through the Green Mountains and past several ski resorts. A very scenic drive.
MASS – St. Mary’s Glens Falls, NY 7:30 am. About a 10 mile - 15 minute drive. An older priest but on the ball – started with 3 jokes - stories about kids – a homily you wanted to listen to – he was deliberate but very good – forgiveness.
56 MARSH-BILLINGS-ROCKEFELLER NHP – Woodstock, NY
A mansion, an art collection, a farm, and 550 acres of park/trails in and around Mount - owned by 3 well-to-do families from the 1800’s to the late 1980’s
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| Marsh-Billlings-Rockefeller |
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| Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller Visitor Center |
I saw A Place in the Land a 1998 American short documentary film directed by Charles Guggenheim. It was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Documentary Short.
A Place in the Land considers the history of conservation stewardship in America as reflected in the property of Billings Farm, an operating dairy farm first established in 1871, and the 555-acre (2.25 km2) Mount Tom, as well as through the work of George Perkins Marsh, Frederick Billings, and Laurance Rockefeller who were successive residents of the estate.
GEORGE PERKINS MARSH (1801-1882) grew up as a child on his family’s farm in Woodstock - intelligent, a politician, a diplomat, a conservationist. In the 1840’s Marsh served several terms in congress and then served as US ambassador in the Middle East and Italy. In 1864, he published the classic “Man and Nature.” His careful analysis of the human impact on nature and his eloquent pleas for responsible land stewardship made this book one of the founding texts of the environmental movement.
FREDERICK BILLINGS (1823-1890) purchased the Marsh family farm in 1869. A Vermont native, Billings made his fortune as an attorney in San Francisco during the California Gold Rush – intelligent, a lawyer, a conservationist. Upon his return to Vermont he found barren hills, silted rivers and a devastated countryside – all the timber had been harvested. Billlings set out to build a farm that would serve future generations as a model of wise stewardship. The Billings plan was maintained by three generations of remarkable women. First his wife Julia and three daughters Elizabeth, Mary and Laura, and then by Billings granddaughter, Mary French – who married Laurence S. Rockefeller in 1934.
LAURANCE S. ROCKEFELLER – the son of John D Rockefeller – brother of Nelson Rockefeller. The Rockefeller’s, had generously created or enhanced over 20 national parks – to include Grand Teton and Acadia and Virgin Islands. The family had purchased this land and gave it to the federal government. Laurence inherited his family’s love for the land. He was a trusted advisor to five presidents on conservation matters – intelligent, entrepreneur, philanthropist, conservationist. Together Laurance and Mary made a gift that established Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller NHP as Vermont’s first and only national park.
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| George Perkins MARSH- Frederick BILLINGS - Laurence ROCKEFELLER |
I made a reservation of the 10 am ranger tour of the Mansion and a follow on tour of the Lost Big Trees on Monday.
ART – looking forward to seeing the collection of paintings in the mansion by Hudson River School of Artists Thomas Cole, John Frederick Kensett, Albert Bierstadt, and Asher Brown Durand. A collection of 19th century landscape painting and photography.
MONDAY - July 20, 2014
WEATHER: mostly sunny – 54 at 5 am – supposed to get the the high 70’s supposed to be another fine days
TRAVEL: Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller is about 10 miles up the road in Woodstock, VT.
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| Marsh-Billlings-Rockefeller front of the house |
MANSION TOUR – The two rangers and one volunteer summer student/intern I met at this park loved their jobs, were very friendly and knew what they were talking about. For lack of a better word – they probably were both ‘tree huggers’ and that’s OK – this is an environmental and conservation history park. The park is also home to the Conservation Study Institute – it carries the message of conservation stewardship, as well as, home to the New Hampshire and Vermont office of the Rivers and Trails Conservation Assistance Program. The rangers ‘were at home.’ The home itself and 555 aces was gifted to the NPS by Laurence & Mary Rockefeller in 1992.
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| Marsh-Billlings-Rockefeller rear of the house |
This is a 3 story Queen Anne style architecture. Upgraded to 20th century standards the home maintains Victorian character and appearance. No pictures are allowed inside the house. I received a personal tour – since I was the only person at 10am. The ranger knew of my interest in the art and spent a considerable amount of time explaining the artwork – it’s a museum in itself – covered 2 floors – the 3rd floor is included in the exclusive art tour.
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| Marsh-Billings Rockefeller Big Tree Tour |
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| Marsh-Billings Rockefeller Carraige Trail 'A Road Less Travelled' |
Of course, I bought a book – everything at the Visitor Center was themed on conservation/environmentalism – but I purchased “Preserving Nature in the National Parks: A History” by Richard West Sellars – 1997 Yale University. I almost bought this for Amy but thought I’d read it first. There was another book by a Dartmouth professor on the art collection but I understood it to be rather verbose and detailed – a study - - immediately thought of Sarah but then decided maybe not. If interested, more on the art in the mansion can be found at http://www.nps.gov/history/museum/exhibits/mabi/
Drove over to the Woodstock Country Club – may play there later.
57 SAINT-GAUDENS NHP – Cornish, NH
This NHP is one of only two dedicated to the visual arts – the other is Weir Farm, which I will visit later this year - Augustus Saint-Gaudens was a sculptor.
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| Saint-Gaudens Replica of goddess Diana original lost/destroyed |
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| Saint-Gaudens - Shaw Memorial |
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| Saint-Gaudens - Shaw Memorial |
Perhaps his greatest achievement was the Shaw Memorial located in Boston, it’s referred to as “a symphony in Bronze.”
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| Saint-Gaudens Abraham Lincoln bust - full size statue in Chicago |
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| Saint-Gaudens William Tecumseh Sherman bust model for full size statue |
Augustus Saint-Gaudens was asked by Theodore Roosevelt to design some US coinage in 1907. The coinage known as “double eagle “ is considered to be the most beautiful coin ever minted in the US. In 1907 Saint-Gaudens designed a Twenty and Ten Dollar gold piece and a one cent piece. The Twenty and Ten Dollar coins remained in circulation until 1943. It is interesting that students and followers of Saint-Gaudens also designed many US coins since.
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| Saint-Gaudens Aspet house |
Saint-Gaudens bought this home in Cornish, New Hampshire in 1892, he had lived there since 1885. He named it Aspet after his father’s home town in France.
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| Saint-Gaudens - US Coinage Design |
The staff here was extremely friendly. A tour of the home covers only the first floor – about 25 minutes. A tour of the grounds and studios takes about 55 minutes. Replica’s and originals are all over the grounds and studios. There is a good film on his life at the Visitor Center. Less than 15 miles from where I’m staying – allow 3-4 hours to visit the grounds and tours.
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| Saint-Gaudens Golden Relief |
All was not work at Aspet – he was for having a 5 hole 9 tee golf course – claimed to be the first irrigated course in the US.
TUESDAY - July 21, 2014
WEATHER: it was 72 at 9am and 88 by noon - sunny
TRAVEL: Drove to Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory in Waterbury, VT and then to the Vermont Teddy Bear Factory in Shelburne, VT. About 90 miles north of Woodstock, VT. Originally, planned to go to Newport, VT and Lake Memphramagog along the Canadian border in Quebec Province - based on a ranger’s suggestion for scenery – then I thought scenery? – I’m seeing the best in the US – the lake can wait – like the rest or Canada. Did take a more scenic route north – took the express along I-89 back – all was very scenic – what in Vermont is not scenic – reminded me of the Rockies at a lower elevation and far below the tree line.
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| Ben & Jerry's |
Really not much here – cost me $3 (Sr rate) to take a 20 minute tour which included a 6 minute film history of Ben & Jerry’s. The $3 did get me a taste of some experimental “fudge” flavor in a very small cup at the end of the tour – I think eating this was included in the 20 minutes.
The place is not very big. Even the gift shop is not very big. There is a cemetery for retired-dead flavors. If you spend more than an hour here you either made too much out of the gift shop or decided to use the playground or sat under the shade of the trees in the cemetery.
OK – I can say I did visit Ben & Jerry’s.
VERMONT TEDDY BEAR FACTORY – Shelburne, VT Now here was a place where I spent almost 3 hours – I must like teddy bears. The staff here all liked their jobs – it was evident – If you have kids go here – pass on ice cream factory . The tour guide I had was energetic. Obviously, she had the personality and patience to work with kids and their parents. The tour was informative and about 20x better than the ice cream factory excursion. Of course you had to put up with the guides “unbearable” jokes. Yes – same fee as the ice cream place – but I’m pretty sure kids were free. This one is worth it.
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| Vermont Teddy Bear Factory |
The story behind the bears – is similar to the ice cream – the owner originally had difficulty finding a teddy bear of quality made in the USA. It may have been a reference to the Care Bears – the original bears were made by hand and then sold locally, the business was started in 1983.
There is a nicely sized store – full of teddy bears. I liked this place.
If your go down to the woods today
You better go in disguise
For every bear that ever there was
Will gather there for certain because
Today’s the day the Teddy Bears have their picnic
Ev’ry Teddy Bear who’s been good
Is sure of a treat today
There’s lots of marvelous things to eat
And wonderful games to play
Beneath the trees where nobody sees
They’ll hide and seek as long as they please
‘Cause that’s the way the Teddy Bears have their picnic
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| Vermont Teddy Bear Hospital |
By the way they take care of their bears after their born in Vermont – each shipping box has a air hole for the bear to breath, there are games on the inside of the box for the bear to play as it travels, there is food in the box – and of course each bear is guaranteed for life – i.e. there is a teddy bear hospital to repair bears with broken bones, or burned paw pads or whatever. Wash your bear in the washer inside a pillow case – AIR DRY - DO NOT PUT IN THE DRYER – these bears are from Vermont and do not like heat. Of course you can dress your bear, personalize your bear, they will even design clothes for your bear, bears come is various colors and you can even have them born with blue or hazel or green eyes. I really did like this place.
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| Woodstock Golf Club #4 This picture does not do justice to how hard this hole is |
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| Woodstock Golf Club |
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| Woodstock Golf Club #4 |
WOODSTOCK INN & RESORT Woodstock, VT – the Woodstock Inn & Resort was originally built by Laurence Rockefeller in association with some folks in Woodstock. The golf course was designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr., a friend of Rockefeller’s. It is nestled in the Kedron Valley with water on more than a dozen holes. The course is a challenge for even the most seasoned golfer. A superb sight with dramatic elevations creating scenic vistas, the courses tree lined fairways and enhanced bunkering are a challenge. I shot 51 – 18 putts - with one in the sand and luckily only one lost ball. A lot of the holes are protected immediately to the front by water – no rolling on to these – forces me to layup or chance losing a ball. The sand was PGA quality.
WEDNESDAY - July 22, 2014
WEATHER: it was 70 at 5:30 am - should get up to the high 80’s or 90 – humid. Thunderstorms this
afternoon. I’ve been listening to a Portland, Maine radio station – the storms are supposed to be especially sever in the White Mountains. Got up to 90 – thunderstorms at 5:50 pm – got really dark early today – no winds - yet.
afternoon. I’ve been listening to a Portland, Maine radio station – the storms are supposed to be especially sever in the White Mountains. Got up to 90 – thunderstorms at 5:50 pm – got really dark early today – no winds - yet.
TRAVEL: Staying close to the trailer today - - - - everything should be within 15 miles
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| Marsh-Billings- Rockefeller Trail signs |
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| Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller The Pougue |
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| Quechee Gorge |
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| Quechee Gorge looking upriver from below the bridge |
CARTER COUNTRY CLUB – Lebenon, NH
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| Carter Country Club |
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| Carter Country Club #3 from the tee |
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| Sugarbush Farm |
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| Sugarbush Farm |
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| Sugarbush Farm Wood fired Maple syrup boilers |
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| Covered Bridge Taftsville,Vermont |
SUGARBUSH FARM – this place is literally at the end of the dirt road at the top of a hill/mountain – it has a Woodstock, VT mailing address. Basically a family farm owned by Jeff and Ralph Luce – nothing pretentious about this place - the staff (I’m sure most were family) was very helpful – tasted white cheddar – and Vermont Maple Syrup. The family’s goal is to provide great tasting products and an educational and fun visit while preserving the working farm for future generations. They make the syrup on site with a wood fired boiler – The tapping season is dictated by the temperature it must get below freezing at night and warm to 30 – no higher than 40’s during the day. The lightest syrup is harvested on the coldest days – the darkest syrup with the most antioxidants is harvested when the days gets warmer. 40 gallons of clear sap (looks and pours like water) to make one gallon of syrup. I had to visit a place that makes maple syrup while in Vermont.
Covered Bridges – I thought Pennsylvania had a lot – there must be at least 8 bridges withing 10 miles of here that I pass or cross over several times a day
THURSDAY - July 24, 2014
WEATHER: some rain along the way – 60’s then 70’s
TRAVEL: Quechee Pine Valley KOA to Great Pond, ME is a 350 mile 6 hour trip. Great Pond is a naval facility – don’t think I’ll have much luck with WIFI.
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| Great Pond - trailer |
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| Great Pond |
howers, laundry and flush toilets – a lot better than West Point’s Round Pond. It appears that Great Pond OAC is a well kept secret – there are many families that come back here year after year – but it is at the end of the road. The sites have water and electric – but you can also rent sites with a large tent – this place is unique and a vacation away from it all.
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| Great Pond - Beach & Rec Center - early in the morning |
FRIDAY - July 25, 2014
WEATHER: started in the mid 50-‘s overnight – got up to the low 80’s – mostly sunny
TRAVEL: It was 50 miles and about 75 minutes to Acadia National Park.
58 ACADIA - NP – Mount Desert Island, ME
Desert can be pronounced as the dry arid land or Desert as the wonderful, usually sweet food following dinner (preferred).
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| Acadia |
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| Acadia - Bus Schdules and Routes |
I saw a 20 minute film about the park – well done – you can buy the full length version in the
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| Acadia - view of the Rockefeller Cottage |
Maybe I started with the wrong attitude but if you want peace and nature go to Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller - way too many bikers here – and I don’t mean Harley – maybe you have to go to one of the islands that nobody goes to – even the hiking trails appear to be crowded – the weather – timing may be best in July and August but there must be times to visit with less people.
I tried following the driving tour but got lost – imagine that- - - - - none of the suggested stops are marked – cars – bicycles - buses - even when I knew where I was, there was little parking – I must have past at least 5 stops – no parking – way too crowded and I mean crowded - very discouraging – also the speeders on the park roads are a distraction – the bicyclists should also follow rules of the road - especially when coming down the mountains/hills – there are posted speed limits – a bikers coming down the hill at 30-35 mph are lucky that they aren’t hit – the roads are narrow - if they spill – WHOA!!! It would be a mess – Harley riders have more sense. Of course the ride or walk to the summit of Cadillac Mountain is something to be applauded – next the bikers should try Mount Scott near Fort Sill, OK.
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| Acadi - view from the top of Cadillac Mountain - it was a hazy day |
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| Acadi - view of road bridge |
The road tour is 27 miles but can be extended to 50+ – if you take in the other side of the island. I didn’t bother – it would take another day. I spent 5 hours in the park – without hiking any trails – and remember I passed a lot of stops, simply because they were too crowded with no place to park - you can spend a week if you want to cover it all. Oh, by the way they have rangers who might have been ex-drill sergeants, who couldn’t get a real job as a cop, checking Park Passes on the tour road.
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| Acadia - view of coastline |
Let the pictures tell the story of the scenery . . . . . .
Carriage Rides – go to Mackinaw Island
Carriage Trails – here J.D. Rockefeller Jr. built them - if you want to walk them go to Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller, Billings built them – not a Rockefeller
Resort Town – couldn’t find a place to park in Bar Harbor – no problem on Mackinac Island – cars aren’t allowed – or in Mackinaw City – even Door County offers better parking - go to Wisconsin Dells to find vacation land
By the way – at the top of Cadillac Mountain – I smelled pine . . . . .
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| Trenton Bridge Lobster |
LOBSTER LUNCH - Late lunch/early dinner – the lady who checked me in at Great Pond suggested that I stop at Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound – I did – again difficult to find a parking place – again nothing pretentious about this place – outdoor dining – no table service - for about $26 I had a 2 lb fresh lobster, coleslaw, butter and a beer – the whole lobster – had to ask one of the non-table service bussers for a little help on how to attack the beast – still need lessons – I’m afraid I mangled the beast - - - - OK I’ve had my Maine lobster
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| L.L. Bean Outlet Trenton, Maine |
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| Lobster Lunch - Trenton,Maine I didn't have a clue how to open/eat this beast |
Stopped at the L.L. Bean Factory Store in Trenton, Me – almost got out there without buying anything – but found a north woods red checked shirt on sale.
I’m up past my bedtime - - - - it’s dark outside 8:55 pm - - - actually twilight – reminds me of 11 pm in June when I was in the UP --- last night, I went to bed early but woke up early – walked outside – clear – the stars were bright – have to head out early tomorrow for Mount Baxter State Park – home of Mount Katahdin and the northern trailhead of the Appalachian Trail. I called ahead today – explaining that I do not plan to climb Mount Katahdin – you need a parking pass to get into this place. – should be interesting – I’ve seen a model – it should be very scenic. It’s about a 100 mile 2+ hour trip – the park opens at 7am – and it’s a Saturday – can’t wait to see all those mountain hikers - - - - - -
SATURDAY - July 26, 2014
WEATHER: mostly cloudy – started in the 50’s – low 70’s where I went today – 80’s where I am living
TRAVEL: this was a 130 mile one way trip that took almost 3 hours – what a mix of conditions – it appears that a lot of main highways average about 45 mph – but since most homes are along the highways – any place off the highway is wilderness – the speed varies from 25 to 35 to 45 to 35 – EXCEPTION about 41 miles of the trip along I-95 the speed limit was 75 and EXCEPTION when I got to Baxter State Park – all the roads are dirt – the last 10 miles were - winding – narrow – barely able to get 2 vehicles through – some very steep drop-offs – rocks on the edge – no shoulder - dusty like Fort McCoy roads but McCoy roads are wider – the forest comes right up to the edge of the road - average speed between 10 and 15 mph – the last 10 miles of the road took me about 50 minutes to travel.
Pnobscott Wassatauoik Nesowadnehunk
Millinocket Passamaquoddy Katahdin Orono
Togue Daicey Matagamon
Some of those are so scary looking people might say their unpronounceable
others after someone says it – you want think you should say ‘bless you’
(of course some of you may remember the Disney movie “Pete’s Dragon” and Passamaquoddy)
WELCOME TO MAINE
59 APPALACHIAN NST – BAXTER STATE PARK ME
I say WOW!
The northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is on the top of Mount Baxter or some say Mount Katahdin (I’m really not sure but I think it’s Katahdin) – it’s about a 5 ½ mile hike up the mountain from Katahdin Stream Campground. They only allow a limited number of people to park there – you need a permit – and there is a check in point before you begin the climb up and down – again they only allow a certain number of hikers on the trail for safety. Some parts of this trail are ladders up the mountain – like Diamond Head in Hawaii. The place was full – but not full like Acadia - full is more in the neighborhood of 20 vehicles. I couldn’t get a permit – didn’t want a permit - but I think this would be the thing to do if I ever returned here – and of course I was in good shape and I had a partner. It is no easy walk in the woods. It would take a whole day. Katahdin is the name of the range and the mountain. Katahdin is the highest point in Maine (5,269 ft at this latitude – above the tree line). There are at least 3 walking routes to the top. There is another that would most likely be a rush for a mountain climber. Many hikers starting up or down are hiking the entire Appalachian Trail – fondly referred to at the AT.  |
| Baxter State Park- along the Appalachian Trail - Little Niagara |
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| Baxter State Park Appalachian Trail R&R 'Roots & Rocks' |
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| Baxter State Park Appalachian Trail R&B 'Roots & Boulders' |
I did hike some of the AT – along the Nesowadnehunk Stream (try to say that 3x fast) – not really along the stream but fairly close – short side trips to the “Niagaras” – affectionately called “Little” and “Big.”
I gave this part of the trail a new name – R&B (Rocks & Boulders) – maybe you could add WPN (With Pine Needles) – mostly on the trail around the Boulders – the smell of pine.
BAXTER STATE PARK 209, 644 acres of WILD – Baxter has rules – no motorcycles (the
dirt roads are dangerous) – no ATVs – no snowmobiles - I wouldn’t take a trailer in there – not sure they would allow it anyway – no electricity – no room – no pool – no pets – everything you bring in-you must carry out (no trash cans) – no showers – plenty of water – but do not use soap - this is wilderness. There are also hiking rules. They do rent cabins and you can reserve a shelter or a tent site.
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| Baxter State Park Nesowadnehunk Road |
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| Baxter State Park Appalachian Trail Big Niagara |
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| Baxter State Park Daicey Pond Road Sentinel Mountain |
Someone said “the best way to think about the park is as a large forested landscape given to Maine by former Governor Percival Baxter (Governor from 1921-24) as a public trust. Baxter also served as a US Representative and Senator. A millionaire, he made his first donation of 6,000 acres, including Katahdin, in 1930. Baxter made his final purchase in 1962 – leaving a Park of 201,018 acres. Baxter Park is an independent agency – not part of the Department of Conservation Parks system – independently funded – I wonder how they do that?
Protecting Park Resources
Providing Recreational Opportunities
Conducting Exemplary Forest Management
Maintaining Park Property
Providing Staff and Public Safety
Managing Fiscal Resources
Here’s How: Operating from a combination of revenues from services, products and endowments the Park requires no publicly legislated funding. Endowments (started with Baxter’s gift of $7 million) provide 2/3 of annual operating revenues – collecting the $14 entrance fess and site rentals and others make up the rest.
Percival Baxter purchased the lands – piece by piece. Baxter left a trust fund of $7 million when he died to ensure that park managers would have enough to manage the park without Maine taxpayer dollars.
“If I ruled the world every heart would have a new song to sing”
“If I ruled the world every voice would be a voice to be heard”
“If I ruled the world there would be happiness no man could end”
“If I ruled the world there would be sunshine in everyone’s sky”
I’ll let he pictures speak for themselves – the day was perfect low 70’s – mostly cloudy – sometimes a breeze
CELEBRATE THE MAINE WOODS
After I left Baxter State Park – the Silverado needed a bath to get rid of the dust – washed it down in Millinocket. Baxter is definitely worth seeing but either rough it or stay in the park or someplace close. If you stay in the park - make reservations early – they do have cabins on several of the ponds or stay someplace closer than 130 miles – 3 hours away. I would have hiked more of the trails but even with me leaving Great Pond at 6:30 the time was limited – too much time on the road.
Interesting a whole long stretch of Highway 9 has American flags on almost every utility pole along the road – miles - - - -
Stopped at Sawmill Woods Golf Course in Clifton, ME 6 miles down Highway 9 from the turnoff to Great Pond where the 8 mile trek in begins – at least this road is asphalt – and a little wider than the dirt roads in Baxter – may golf there tomorrow after St. Croix.
SUNDAY - July 27, 2014
WEATHER: very foggy – 50 – 60 then by 10 am mostly cloudy – raining by 4 pm – got up to 70
TRAVEL: fog all the way to Calais bordering Canada – the lady who checked me in at Great Pond said everything was an hour away – this drive was 75 miles and 1.5 hours to get to a church – most of the route was 55 mph but remember the fog – a large heron on the road driving the 7 mile Great Pond Road – I was watching for moose or deer not heron – how would I have explained that one – he was camouflaged-looked like a stick on the side of the road?
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| Kateri Tekawitha Parish Calais, Maine |
“Residents Skeptical of Park.” Decided to stop by a local restaurant of breakfast, I had a Denver Omelet at Karen’s Diner. I sat at the counter and while I waited found a copy of Friday’s Bangor Daily News. The headline of the Local Section read “Residents Skeptical of Park.” Now remember local section and Bangor is at least 90 miles from Millinocket. The “residents” are skeptical of the proposed 150,000 acre National Park proposed in the Katahdin Region. The “residents” (must have been a dozen) argue that creation of a National Park will attack state sovereignty, the forest products industry, and would not deliver economic value. “They felt the park would force tough federal air quality standards on the forest products industry.” “Residents” said that if you ‘turn it into a National Park you lose culture.’ Here’s another WOW! You’ve got to be kidding? Really ---- air ---- by the way, there is a large plant in Millinocket along the river and odorous – could it be a paper mill? I’ve found that plants emitting offensive odors or waste generally do not advertise their name in public. Just an interesting side story - - - - - This turned out to be Kathadin Woods & Waters National Monument creaed by Preisdent Obama August 24, 2016.
60 SAINT CROIX ISLAND NHS - CALAIS, ME
Also designated an International Historic Site – there is a Canadian side of Saint Croix Island – the station there offers a different view and interpretive trail.
This is the true Acadia – the Acadia I remember from maybe even grade school history – remember there is no “R” in Acadia. This Visitor Center is about 9 miles south of Calais, down Highway 1. Very small – no film – you can’t go on the island. The ranger who I met is part time – she sufficed as good as the film with her personal story of the settlement and the island. I spent 45 minutes here. There are 7 statues and interpretive signs along a very short trail from the parking lot. The high tide was in – at low tide it’s 20 ft less.
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| St. Croix Statue of Passamaquoddy Women |
THE STORY OF SAINT CROIX ISLAND (short story)
In April 1604, Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons (there is a Sieur de Monts Spring and Nature Center in Acadia NP named after this explorer nobleman ) sailed from France bound for North America. He was granted a trading monopoly and the title lieutenant-general of Acadie.
Dugua and his investors were interested in the fur trade. Samuel Champlain, map maker and chronicler of the expedition hoped to discover a “Northwest Passage.” They sailed into a harbor along the coast of Nova Scotia named Port Royal by Champlain.
In June the party sailed into Passamaquoddy Bay. Dugua chose a small island in the
middle of the river for the settlement. Dugua named it Sainte-Croix (holy cross) for the cross-like upriver tributaries (Jamestown was not founded until 1607). Champlain drew the plan for the settlement. They brought the building materials with them – including bricks. Gardens were planted on the island and on the mainland. They traded and were friends with the Passamaquoddy natives.
Acadie shared the same latitude as temperate France, so it was assumed the climate would be similar. They knew nothing of Arctic air from the north. They were not prepared for a North American winter. The Passamaquoddy moved inland during the winter in order to find game. The river froze, the tides caused cakes of ice to form, making the river impossible to cross. On the island they were cut off from fresh water, game, and fuel for fires. By February, men began to die. It is believed that many of them may have died from scurvy. In March, the Passamaquoddy brought the survivors game in exchange for bread and other goods.
Resupply from France was due by the end of April. By mid-May there was still no sign of the ships. They finally arrived on June 15th. Dugua resolved to move the settlement. Along with Champlain and looking for a warmer climate, they sailed as far south as Cape Cod, but found nothing that pleased them. Dugua decided to move to Port Royal, dismantling the structures and moving anything of value. Saint Croix was one of the earliest European settlements in North America, after the Spanish settlements to the south.
1608 Champlain founded the City of Quebec.
1783-1797 The St. Croix River is designated the boundary between Canada and the US . There is disagreement over which river is the St. Croix. French bricks are discovered on the island to identify the island and the river.
1949 Saint Croix Island declared a National Monument.
1984 Saint Croix Island declared an International Historic Site in recognition of the “historic significance to both the United States and Canada.”
Lebec, ME – stopped here before going across the bridge to Campobello. A lot of restaurants and bars are here, along the water. If I hadn’t just finished breakfast 2 hours ago – this looked intriguing.
ROOSEVELT CAMPOBELLO INTERNATIONAL PARK – CAMPOBELLO ISLAND, CANADA
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| Campobello - the FDR Cottage |
Of course – I’m glad I had my passport – otherwise it’s a no go – no visit. I remember a 1960 film called “Sunrise at Campobello” – I really can’t remember the story and when I saw it in the theatre I’m sure it was interesting for my parents but – maybe I just couldn’t relate. I do remember somehow that it starred Raymond Massey – couldn’t tell you what it was about or back then not even sure where or what Campobello was but I do remember it was about FDR. OK so I cheated and according to the internet (remember it was on the internet so it must be true and Al Gore invented it) but it was about FDR and the summer of 1921 – based on a Broadway play – guess I should see it again – to understand it.
I only spent an hour here and toured the 34 room summer “cottage.” The furnishings are original and unlike the NPS they let you take pictures here and it isn’t all shaded and dark for “preservation’s sake.” Plenty of trails to walk - - - you can register for afternoon “Tea With Eleanore” – for $12 each, I think this would be great for mom’s and daughters. The park has a brochure that outdoes NPS brochures 3x – 3 pages in booklet form – very informative. I’ll spare you the history. On my trip back to Wisconsin I do plan to visit the homes of Franklin and Eleanore in Hyde Park, NY. Both are NHSs.
Never got the round of golf in – started raining at 4 pm. Got at least an inch.
MONDAY - July 28, 2014
WEATHER: cloudy – 60’s
TRAVEL: no plans – except to read – I’d like to finish “Six Armies In Tennessee” - go to the Rec Center and post this blog – relax – maybe golf and get down to where the phone works in order to verify tomorrow’s trip to Hanscom AFB and maybe call someone just to hear their voice. I’m older today.
Met some folks from Palmyra, WI – they have a DISABLED VET PLATE labeled SPECTRE – I’m sure I’ve seen that around someplace before. Retired Air Force. The lady is originally from Bar Harbor, ME – she agrees with me – too many people - they stay away from the place - maybe go there in October.
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| Sawmill Woods GC #8 fairway - where it ends on the right is the rough |
TUESDAY - July 29, 2014
WEATHER: started out in the 60’s humid cloudy – some rain when I left – cleared up as I drove south – reached 79 – then clouded up.
TRAVEL: Great Pond OAC, ME to Hanscom AFB, Bedford, MA is a 280 mile drive. Departed 0845 - Arrived 1445. Checked in – here for 4 nights to see Saugus, Lowell, & Salem Maritime - coming back in September for the Boston area. I’ll take the train into town. Showers, toilets, laundry, rent bicycles, free coffee - - - a lot of Class A rigs here. No trains – no annoying interstate – just the sound of jets – well I’ll make believe its cannon. Some of the sites here have concrete pads – others have concrete porches to the side of your parked RV for the picnic table under your awning – of course it’s first come – first served – I’m on a fairly level but sandy ground under the pines. Most sites are in the open. This site is only $23/night – Great Pond was $25 (must have been $2 extra for the 7 mile end of the road drive – all the waterfront activities and the quiet – and of course WIFI at the Rec Center – if you want a Rec Center here I think you have to go on base). Not exactly sure how many sites are here but it must be close to 80.
WEDNESDAY - July 30, 2014
WEATHER: got up to 80 mostly sunny
TRAVEL: about 18 miles but a 40 minute drive – roads in Massachusetts are like I remember – not a one is straight – the roads are narrow - there are no sidewalks – the continuous turns and junctions can cause backups – actually it’ s just the east coast.
61 LOWELL NHP – LOWELL, MA
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| Lowell National Historic Park |
The park is the city and a collection of buildings that tell the story of Lowell’s cotton textile mills. Can we say it all goes back to Thomas Jefferson who wanted the United Sates to be an agrarian society and Alexander Hamilton who saw the United States as a place for manufacturing and industry to grow with the support of the federal government.
I had heard of Lowell but never made the connection . . . .
Francis Cabot Lowell had a vision of an industrial city on the Merrimack River in Massachusetts. He and other investors had the land – the site was a natural for water power due to the 43 foot drop in water height as the Merrimack River curved around the site. In 1810 he toured England’s textile mills – he memorized how the weaving looms were made – and upon return to the US designed his own looms and improved on the power loom and manufacturing process by designing an American factory – where for the first time all of the textile manufacturing process was under one roof in a four or five story building. However, Lowell died before this factory was built. His partners did not drop the dream.
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| Lowell - Emtramce to Boott Cotton Mill |
Construction on the site began in 1822. Kirk Boott, was the planner, architect, engineer and construction boss. He designed the buildings and laid out the streets – he even built an Episcopalian Chruch. The canals dug by Irish immigrants brought power to the mills.
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| Lowell Mill Girls statue |
Initially, the looms in the mills were by Yankee farm girls. The Irish weren’t allowed to work in the mills until the 1850’s. Mill girls were young Yankee women between 15 and 30 who worked in the large cotton factories. During the early labor protests, they asserted that they were “the daughters of freemen” whose rights could not be “trampled upon with impunity” (a lot going on here in the mid 19th century – Ref: Women’s Rights NHS). They lived in factory owned boarding houses. The Mill Girls & Immigrants Exhibit (no fee) is a Boott Mills boarding house. Spent 30-45 minutes here.
The Lowell boarding house design was a 3 ½ story brick row house. The women were under the watchful eye of a boarding house keeper. There were generally 4 women to a room, 20-40 women in a living unit. Common rooms (i.e. dining, kitchen, pantry and the keeper’s room) were downstairs. The bedrooms were upstairs, generally 4 women to a room. The keeper was a single woman usually who her 40’s who cooked and made sure the girls kept the 10pm curfew and went to church every Sunday. The mill owners had a paternalistic, well meaning paternalistic practice to provide for the moral guardianship and physical care of the young factory women. That changed and when the immigrants came to America they generally rented apartments/rooms and lived in ethnic neighborhoods – the boarding houses went through transitions.
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| Lowell - Boarding House |
In the 1840’s female labor reformers banded together to promote the 10 hour day in the face of strong corporate opposition. Few strikes succeeded while the workforce was mainly unorganized. Irish employed in the mills rose in the late 1840’s . Thousands of immigrants from Europe settled in Lowell after the Civil War. Women workers played prominent roles in the large strikes in 1903 and 1912.
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| Lowell - weaving machines |
VISITOR CENTER
The Visitor Center is in the site of a previous cotton mill. I believe that the NPS rents the space because most of this refurbished complex is a mix of office buildings, art galleries, apartments and condos. The Visitor Center has a 20 minute introductory film and a nice group of exhibits introducing you to the history of Lowell and the cotton mills.
Additionally, there is a fairly large exhibit devoted to a native of Lowell, American writer Jack Kerouac. He wrote “On The Road” in 1957. It is described as “the novel that defined a generation.” He is credited with defining the “beat generation.” How did I miss this book? Maybe the name is familiar . . . . . but it must have been more important to read “The Jungle” and “Catcher In The Rye” when I was in high school – and besides the beats were on their way out by the mid 60’s giving way to a new generation. I bought the book anyway – it should be an interesting read about “the quest for meaning and true experience – love of America – and a vision of freedom and hope” as Jack and his friend, Neal Cassady, travel across America. “On The Road” is Kerouac’s use of language as jazz.
BOOTT COTTON MILL MUSEUM
Another Visitor Center about a 10 minute walk from the main Visitor Center. There is a fee to enter here – I spent 3 hours in this building and could have spent at least one more. This is part of the Boott Mill factory complex. The remainder of the complex is condos, apartments, art shops, offices. The must hide the location of the automobiles well.
The first floor has 80 operating looms – I made a video maybe it will turn out. This room was just one of many in this factory complex – they were usually 180-200 looms on one of these floors “operated” by mill girls – by the way – the mill girls were also called “operators.”
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| Lowell - The Birth of an Industrial City |
The second floor is a museum with exhibits about the mills, it’s history, textiles and a 30 minute film as well as several other videos. Of particular interest were 3 videos done on 3 screens portraying an Lithuanian immigrant woman (left screen), an Irish labor leader who represented the United Textile Workers (UTW) and a east European labor leader from the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW) (center screen) and a noble Yankee Factory Agent (plant manager) representing the owners (right screen) . . . they discussed labor issues in the factories – even the union leaders had differing opinions as they represented skilled (UTW) and lower paid unskilled workers (IWW). Good dramatizations – a bit of a stereotype – but it was acting – therefore should be entertaining - - - each one was 7-10 minutes in length – they got the point across - it seemed to be in each dramatization/discussion the only group that lost was the worker . . . . .
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| Lowell - Suffolk Mill |
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| Lowell - Suffolk Mills Trolley |
THURSDAY - July 31, 2014
WEATHER: got up to 80 mostly sunny - then mostly cloudy
TRAVEL: Saugus is about 15 miles – Salem another 15-18 miles from Saugus. Driving is slow. Originally planned a day at each site. Spent about 2 hours at Saugus (would have been less if the Ranger didn’t volunteer to give me a one on one house tour) and 4 hours at Salem. Even I-95 is a bottleneck going into and out of Boston – that’s why when I come back in September I’ll take the subway – there’s a station about 15 minutes from Hanscom Fam Camp.
62 SAUGUS IRON WORKS NHS – SAUGUS, MA
Saugus was the first iron making facility in New England (probably in North America) and another example of where water power contributed to the site. Iron ore and wood for making charcoal were also available. Water power was used on water wheels to run the bellows and some of the hammers in the buildings.
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| Saugus Iton Works - reconstructed buildings |
A SHORT COURSE IN IRON ORE METALLUGY (of course there was no brochure so I bought a small book)
Hopefully you will find this interesting.
Iron ore (made of iron and oxygen i.e. Fe3O4 or black magnetite) is heated with charcoal. The charcoal (carbon) has a great affinity for oxygen and leaves the metallic iron.
Slag – ores are not pure chemical compounds like F3O4 (iron and oxygen) they contain a proportion of impurities like silica (sand) – this is the leftover stuff.
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| Saugus - The Forge |
In a Blast Furnace (developed around 14th century Europe) limestone is added as a flux to produce an effective liquid slag. The limestone and ore and charcoal were charged into the top of a high furnace (25 ft high), while a blast of air was pumped in at the bottom by a large water powered bellows.
1) The iron oxide ore reacts with carbon monoxide (CO) gas form the burning charcoal to make particles of metallic iron. TOP of FURNACE
2) Iron in contact with red hot charcoal dissolves about 4% of carbon which lowers the melting temperature and produces liquid iron. MIDDLE of FURNACE
3) Air (oxygen O2)is pumped in. BOTTOM of FURNACE
4) Liquid Slag and Molten Iron (brittle pig iron or cast iron) is the result.
The iron melted and collected as a liquid in the crucible at the bottom of the furnace, while the slag floated on top. The slag was run off the top and discarded. The iron was run out into main channel and side channels at right angles , resembling a row of sucking piglets , hence this may be where the term pig iron comes from.
The pig iron was brittle and had to have the carbon removed. It was re-melted in a finery perhaps this was called the forge where a small charcoal fired hearth with a bellows stirred in an air blast to burn out the unwanted carbon, until essentially carbon-free iron was produced. The melting point rose as the carbon content was reduced The refined iron was a pasty lump which was hammered to a usable shape under a water-powered hammer – bar iron or wrought iron – could be forged by a blacksmith and would bend cold without cracking. This is what was sold by the owners of the Saugus Iron Works.
There’s more to it than that . . . . . but a bit beyond my comprehension – perhaps I’ll learn more as time goes by. The made 2” x 2” iron bars here and exported them. The Slitting Mill was unique because here then took the iron and slit it into thin rods – that could then be made into nails for local use.
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| Saugus Mill |
I went back to Visitor Center to browse and in a conversation explained that I was at the red door for the 9:45 house tour but no one came. A ranger (another young guy) overheard and offered to give me the tour – the Visitor Center/Park offices are in a wing of the house. He knew his stuff and the history of the house. It was built after the iron works went belly up – maybe 1680. No one knows exactly who built the original – there have been many additions – and finally a guy with some money did the restoration and eventually gave it the NPS. The iron works buildings are all reproductions. By the way the guys who invested in the iron works were Puritans. Puritans were simple – but if wealthy expressed their “good fortune” and “hard work” outwardly with clothing or extras in the house such as glass – nail studded doors – furniture with a lot of spindles and fine woodwork and brighter, not all bare wood, plaster and paint on the inside of the house.
Not really sure what to make of Saugus – luckily I met the blacksmith and ranger – 2 hours.
63 SALEM MARITIME NHS – SALEM, MA
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| Salem Martitime |
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| Salem Martitime Customs house |
SALEM WITCH TRIALS 1692
OK – just about everybody has heard of these . . . . . There was Salem the seaport village (where the merchants, fishermen and ship owners/builders lived) and there was Salem the rural village. Each was Puritan – similar but different. Each had its own church and minister. Each was to support the minister whether they belonged to the church or not. The new minster in the rural village appears to have been an instigator in agitating the people and identifying the poorer and weaker and those who were possibly his enemies as having associations with the devil. Even the magistrate who presided over the trials assumed them guilty unless they could prove themselves innocent - - - - There also were a number of teenage girls who made many of the accusations. Of course none of the accused were witches - - - - - 27 were hanged 1 was pressed to death. There is a Salem Witch Memorial with as stone bench/slab carrying the names of each innocent who was accused and put to death. The hysteria finally stopped when ministers and others from Boston intervened.
SALEM MARITIME INTERPRETATION CENTER
Good thing I found the Visitor Center – this place was closed for the year.
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| Salem Maritime Ranger on the Friendship |
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| Salem Martitime The Friendship |
FRIENDSHIP A Merchant Ship
I almost passed on this when a 1pm tour was mentioned at the Visitor Center – but I’m glad I signed up. Here I found a ranger who loved her job and knew her stuff. We spent about an hour on the merchant ship FRIENDSHIP. This is a reproduction. Originally built in Salem she made 17 trade voyages until captured by the British as a prize during the War of 1812. NO one is sure where the original ended up. The reproduction was built after a very detailed 9 foot long model built by the ship’s carpenter and given to the Captain’s son in Salem. The model currently resides in the Peabody-Essex Museum. Sailing always did interest me – I wish it knew more about sailing - I think it would take several months at sea for me to “learn the ropes” on how to make this thing work.
The FRIENDSHIP is docked on the long wharf or Derby Wharf – it was built in Salem and is almost ¾ mile long. Very busy in its day – once lined with warehouses where the goods could be kept until the taxes were paid at the Custom House. Interesting, that Nathanial Hawthorne once served as US Customs Agent here.
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| Salem Martime Why it's touristy |
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| Salem Maritime Follow the Red Line |
Follow the RED LINE and it will take you on a one mile journey through touristy land - of course there is a charge to see anything . . . . witch trail reenactments, Witch House, Witch Museum, Witch Dungeon Museum, Witch Walks, Ghost Walks, Ghost Tours, Haunted Happenings, and your usual collection of hotels – bed & breakfasts – taverns – restaurants – gift shops and art and antique stores. Some of these places are in better shape than others. Yes, the House of Seven Gables is here – but I haven’t read the book – didn’t visit the house the last time I was here and didn’t even both to walk to it this time. I came here for the NHS not the Peabody-Essex Museum. There are some statues of past prominent citizens.
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