Wednesday, June 4, 2014

7 June 2-July 4, 2014 Indiana Dunes, Detroit Tigers, River Raisin, Perry Victory, Sleeping Bear Dunes, Mackinac, Sault Ste Marie, Pictured Rocks, Keweenaw, Apostle Islands, St. Croix Scenic River, Durand, Mississippi River, Burlington


MONDAY – June 2, 2014 
WEATHER:  Warm, good potential for t-storms.
TRAVEL:  Bong Recreation  Area (Wisconsin) to Indiana Dune State Park (Chesterton, IN ) Hard rain, a downpour at times on the Tri-State around Chicago.  This trip should have taken no more than 2 ½ hours about 130 miles but for the rain and a 45 minute delay on the south end – 2 trucks got into it and closed 3 of 4 lanes. 


Indiana Dunes State Park
INDIANA DUNES STATE PARK is on the south end of Lake Michigan 1,530 acres.   Easy to find, once you know where you’re going.  Several gate guards (DNR must have some money) one to get into the park and pay your fees, a second to get into the campground and pay your fees.  Very nice park;  all roads are asphalt; all campsites  have concrete pads; open with some trees; 2 very large and very clean rest room/shower facilities.   STATE PARK is adjacent to INDIANA DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE.  The park was established in 1925.  This LANDSCAPE (dunes) IS UNIQUE.



Trailer - Indiana Dunes State Park


NO WIFI here but the phone works.  (Created the original of this post during the 7 hour rain on Wedensday).  So far - no bugs.  I did forgot the power cord for the pc – an excuse to buy a spare and drive 15 miles 30 miles into’ Valparaiso to a Best Buy.  Of course had to visit Menard’s while there – also forgot the can cooler ‘blue ice’ . . . . .  while there just had to have dinner at TGIFridays




TUESDAY – June 3, 2014 
WEATHER:  Another good morning, clear but getting cloudy.  NO dogs needed last night.  Comfortable.


Up early, before the birds, adjusting to EDT – yet only about 50 miles east of home. Started this blog for posting later . . .  The Visitor Center for the National Lakeshore doesn’t open until 8 or 9 so I thought I’d take a 5 mile hike in the State Park before going to the Visitor Center. 

Indiana Dunes

This day was perfect  – blue sky, in the mid 70’s, a breeze from the west off the lake – perfect.


Indiana Dunes
Started walking 3 hrs (7-10 am) in Indiana Dunes State Park.  Walked about 3 miles along the beach – climbed up into a “blowout” dune – actually it was called Furnessville Blowout – didn’t see it at first but the Chicago skyline can be seen from here – but the lake is north of the beach – lots of sand. This was longer than 5 miles.


It was the right choice to stay at Indiana Dunes State Park.  This would be a great place to visit for an extended stay.  The park is excellent, there are over 35 miles of hiking trails and plenty of bike trails.  This is camping ‘in the dunes’ – much better than Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore and the beaches just go on and on, of course Michigan City and a power plant is on one side and Gary with its steel  mills on the other.  Everything in between is perfect along the beach. 





39 INDIANA DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE – (Chesterton, IN)

An oasis of natural and recreational beauty situated amid the industrialized southern shores of Lake Michigan.   This park celebrated 25 years in 1991.  The park preserves towering dunes, sandy beaches, bogs, marshes , swamps and prairie remnants.


Tri Inter Agency Visitor Center - note the logos 
 once you know what to look for it's easier to find
Indiana Dunes State Park is surrounded by Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore.  The ecology is the same but the federally administered park comprises approximately 15,000 acres.  The Park was established  in 1966.


BACKGROUND:  The NPS was only a year old in 1916 when its first director Stephen T. Mather tried to save the Indiana Dunes from development.  The dunes and related glacial land forms were known to be treasures ever since botanist Henry Cowles formed the Prairie Club of Chicago in 1908.  The State Park was created in 1926.


Indiana Dunes
Indiana Dunes


Lake levels have changed may times creating a series of shorelines and dunes.





A WEALTH OF HABITATS:
LAKE                                           BEACH                   DUNES                             
PONDS BETWEEN DUNES       MARSH                  OAK SAVANNA                 
PRAIRIE                                      RIVER                    BOG
Gouging Glaciers’   Liquid Retreats + Pulsing Winds & Waters = Rippled Shorelines

WEDNESDAY – June 4, 2014 
WEATHER:  Raining in the 60’s around 6:30 am.  Seven hours later still raining – it was a hard rain –used the time to create this post – lit up the phone  as a ‘ hot spot’ – don’t think I’ll get golf in today – may still go for a few hikes.  It stopped raining at 2:30 pm – time to go hiking.


Indiana Dunes
COWLES BOG TRIAL  -  stopped here but it looked just too wet.  BACKGROUND:  This is the site where Henry Chandler Cowles pioneered his landmark study of the Dunes vegetation succession – an ecologist.  There is a floating mat of peat moss – that would have been interesting.
Indiana Dunes




Indiana Dunes - Bailly Homestead




Indiana Dunes - Bailly Homestead
BAILLY HOMESTEAD, CHELLBURG FRAM & LITTLE CALUMET RIVER TRAILS – this was a good choice but not always marked real well.  Deep ravines, the Bailly Cemetery monument, the Bailly Home and Mnoke Prairie – about  3.5 miles took about 2.5 hours. 


Joseph Bailly, is the first known non-native resident of Northwest Indiana.  He set up a trading post in 1822.  Apparently he made some money. Quite a tombstone.


Indiana Dunes - Chellberg Farm

The Chellberg  Farm was owned by a Swedish immigrant. 



Mnoke Prairie – recently restored by the NPS – 120 acres.
Indiana Dunes




Indiana Dunes
Indiana Dunes
Indiana Dunes



WEST BEACH TRAILS:  This place is an alternate to the Indiana Dunes State Park Beach there is a charge to  get in this segment of the park but . . . .  plenty of trails The DUNE SUCCESION LOOP  is about a mile long mostly sand but maybe mostly stairs – 250 steps – so says the NPS – they are very good at building stairs and boardwalks. The LONG LAKE TRAIL LOOP would be a good bet for birding. Another trail here is the WEST BEACH LOOP TRAIL – yes prickly pear cactus grows here.


A person could spend a week in these parks just walking trails and there are paved bike trails – some not so well paved..
I really liked this place.  Of course it was after 5pm, cool after it had been raining all day - literally no one was here.


Indiana Dunes
THURSDAY – June 5, 2014 
Harbortwon RV Resort
WEATHER:  in the 60’s clear
TRAVEL:  Indiana Dunes State Park to Harbortown RV Resort.  Left at 7  am in order to make the Detroit game (originally planned for Sunday – now a Thursday afternoon game.  Got to Harbortown in about 3 ½ hours.  Set up in less than ½ hour.  Drove north about 40 miles but the speed limit is 70 all the way in about 45 minutes.



COMERICA PARK - Detroit, MI


COMERICA PARK - Detroit, MI
COMERICA PARK - Detroit, MI

DETROIT TIGERS vs TORONTO BLUE JAYS Commerica Park  1:05 pm
Sec 117 Row 8 Seat 4    
Outfield Box
Parking here is a challenge – this is a downtown venue with the football stadium right next door (just like Philadelphia – but Philadelphia had a plan - here its more like  empty lot- urban renewal at its best – and it cost $20. 

The Tigers lost 7-3 – mostly due to the center and right fielder failing to catch a ball – it dropped right between them – not sure who got the error but I think the center fielder should have made the call.  It was 3-3; then the Jays then got 2 home runs. 


FRIDAY – June 6, 2014 
WEATHER:  a cool 48 in the morning – but clear – warmed up to 80’s with a breeze
40 RIVER RAISIN NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD PARK - (Monroe, MI)

River Raisin Battlefield Park
River Raisin Battlefield Park









A small Visitor Center with an electric (LED) map program that helps you understand the battles.  I walked a few short trails here.  There was a group of school children going through 4 separate stations – looked to me like each station was about 35-40 minute in length with a break in between.  Clothing and muskets for the kids and all. Spent about 3 ½ hours here.  There is a driving tour -  written by the man who was drilling the students – didn’t take all of it .- but I bought and read  the pamphlet.



These battles took place during the War of 1812 and produced the rallying cry “Remember the Raisin”.  It was not because of the two battles at a place called Frenchtown (Monroe. MI) but the killing of American prisoners the day after the battle.
River Raisin Battlefield Park

In the 1st battle, January 18, 1813, US forces drove out a British garrison force.


On January 22, British an allied (Indian) forces routed the Americans.
After a promise from the British that the wounded would be protected, the Americans were marched to Fort Malden – across the Detroit River in Canada.  Native Americans returned and killed all US wounded prisoners.


The War of 1812 is often called the “forgotten war” – something like the Korean “forgotten war” – because it was a war about land.  I bought a book on the War of 1812 because much of at least 3 sites I will visit here in Michigan were part of that war.  Of course New Orleans is next year.  Below is a timeline history:

1794 - Battle of Fallen Timbers and British and Native allies building Fort Miami sets stage for War of 1812.
1806 – Britain blockades France and seizes 1,000 US ships in Napoleanic War


1811 – Battle of Tippecanoe, at Shawnee Prophetstown, IN


1812 – US declares war on Britain on June 18th; US strategy: land war in the West; British defeat three US attempts to invade upper Canada.


1813 – Battles of Frenchtown (River Raisin) Jan 18 and 22, and killing of US POWs on Jan 23.
         - US strategy shifts: naval war in the West to cut British supply line.
         - US Admiral Perry defeats British fleet on Lake Erie, Sep 10.
         - US defeats British and Native allies in Battle of Thames (Cananda) “Remember the Raisin”;  Chief Tecumseh (who had brought a confederation of Indian tribes together to fight for the
               British) is killed Oct 5.  The Indian confederation dissolves.


1814 - Peace negotiations begin at Ghent, Belgium, Aug 8.
         - British take Washington, DC; burn the Capitol and the White House, Aug 24.
         - US routs British force in naval Battle of Plattsburg, NY on Lake Champlain, Sep 11.
         - The “Star Spangled Banner” lyrics are written by Francis Scott Key off Fort McHenry, Baltimore, MD Sep 14.
         - Peace Treaty of Ghent signed on Dec 24 in Belgium.


1815 – US defeats British forces at Battle of New Orleans, Jan 8.
         - Treaty of Ghent ratified, war with the British ends Feb 17.
         - Treaty of Springwells, Sep 8 ends war between the US and the Native Americans, who were left out of the Treaty of Ghent.
        
The War of 1812 was about land.  British history says they won, US history says Americans won.  The Native Americans were the losers.  They sided with the British because the British said if they won- they would let the Indians stay on their land.  Who won and who lost?


Links at Lake Erie
Links at Lake Erie
G O L F – LINKS AT LAKE ERIE played nine holes – the course is right next  to the trailer park).  Nine holes for $9, after 6:15 on weekdays with a cart.  6:15 here is like 5:15 at home and this is June – it’s light out until 9:30.  A threesome in front of me let me through after 6 holes, played in 1 hour and 35 minutes.  Narrow fairways, some water, not much sand, a short course front nine was 3023 yards, shot 48 – 22 putts. There’s a River Raisin course just down I-75 – think I’ll play there Sunday. Finished early enough to get a fish fry, just down the road toward Lake Erie at the Harbor View and Ale – a nice place – rates with some of the best I’ve seen in Florida.  The clam chowder was very good.




       

SATURDAY – June 7, 2014 
WEATHER:  the day started at  48 degrees, clear it got up to 80 with a pleasant breeze.
TRAVEL:  Perry’s Victory & IPM is located in Put-In-Bay, OH on South Bass Island in Lake Erie.  A 65 mile trip, it took less than 1 ½ hours to get there.  


Put-in-Bay
Put-in-Bay

PUT-IN-BAY, OH  South Bass Island:  A tourist destination island resort community.  I got my ferry ticket at a Visitor Center, with a discount it was $13 round trip on the Miller Boat Line ferry.  Cost me $5 to park.  About a 18-20 minute trip to the island.  Motorcycles loaded first, the cars, bicycles and people.  The most exciting part of the trip is when 20 Harley’s revved up on the boat waiting for the ferry’s gangway to drop.  It made me smile - - - - I suppose some people wished they had earplugs.  Coming back a car did have a trailer.  If this is the kind of ferry they have at Madeline Island, I could have taken my trailer to the State Park there.  I‘ll find out in a couple of weeks.


Put-in-Bay
Cost me another $5 round trip for a school bus ride from the dock to Put-In-Bay – only a mile or so – but worth the $5.  You can rent bikes and golf carts which seem to abound.   Probably a good place to spend a weekend  overnight – but make your reservation for a room way in advance.  Lots of bars, restaurants,  and shops – resort-ville – a mix of Cancun, the Dells and Door County.  A large park for rest or for kids is just off the harbor.

Lake Erie Ferry to Put-In-Bay

41 PERRY’S VICTORY & INTERNATIONAL PEACE MEMORIAL - (Put-In-Bay, OH)
Perry's Victory Peace Memorial



“We have met the enemy and they our ours ; two ships, two brigs, one schooner and one sloop.”   Oliver Hazard Perry  

Perry's Victory
On September 10, 1813 Oliver Hazard Perry scrawled those memorable words on the back of an envelope and sent them to MG William Henry Harrison at the of a dramatic sea battle on Lake Erie.


Throughout the late summer of 1813, the US Navy’s Lake Erie squadron, anchored at Put-In- Bay, effectively cut off British supplies to Fort Malden.  Just as the British Native American allies had cut off supplies to the US force that occupied Detroit.   The British, either had to retreat abandon their Indian allies or attack.  They chose to attack.   


For the young US Navy, this was their first fleet action.  Nine vessels of the United State Navy defeated and captured six vessels of British Royal Navy.  The British ships had guns that could range ½ mile; Perry’s ships had guns that were heavier but could only range ¼ mile.  Perry, 27 years old, knew that in order to defeat the British he needed the wind at his back.

Perry's Victory

At first, the battle began badly.  Then the wind changed to favor Perry.  His flagship was the brig Lawrence.   The other brig in his line of battle was the Niagara.   Perry's opponent, Commander Robert Heriot Barclay, was an experienced Royal Navy officer who had fought with Lord Nelson at Trafalgar in 1805, and two years later he lost an arm fighting the French.


The US Brig Lawrence was badly damaged and disabled.

Perry's Victory
The Lawrence was named after James Lawrence (October 1, 1781 – June 4, 1813). During the War of 1812 he commanded the USS Chesapeake against the HMS Shannon. He is probably best known today for his last words Don't give up the ship!", which is still a popular naval battle cry, and which was invoked by Oliver Hazard Perry’s personal battle flag, adopted to commemorate his dead friend.


Perry transferred his command to the US Brig Niagara and carried the flag with him.  It was hoisted on the Niagara. 


During the action, the British Commander, Robert Barclay was also wounded.  A sailing error caused the British ships Detroit and Queen Charlotte to run into each other .  The Niagara and the other American vessels took advantage of the situation and quickly overcame the British squadron..


Never before had the Royal Navy suffered the capture of an entire squadron.  The Battle of Lake Erie made Oliver Hazard Perry a national hero and gave the US a much needed morale boost.


The Perry Victory and International Peace Memorial commemorates the lasting peace between nations once at war – the United States, Great Britain and Canada. 


The Memorial also honors all who fought and died in the Battle of Lake Erie on September 10, 1813.

The lasting peace is a 4,000 mile long unarmed border between the US and Canada.  

View from atop the Peace Memorial
Atop the Peace Memorial
 





SUNDAY – June 8, 2014  
WEATHER:  62 at 5:30 am; cloudy, looked like rain last night, and it did rain today with a breeze.  It shouldn’t get much above 70.  A lot of people leaving the campground by 10am



St Mary's
Monroe, MI
SUNDAY MASS at St. Mary’s Catholic Church in Monroe. Pentecost Sunday 0730. This church, founded in 1788, had an organ and an organist who knew how to play it.  Still, it’s been a while since I attended a mass that took 1 hour and 20 minutes – not necessarily inspiring but the young priest spoke slow and deliberate and still within the echoes of the church I could not always make out what he was saying.  The homily was a challenge to listen to.  

MONROE, MI – not home but where George Armstrong Custer got married.  This statue is across the street from the church.



It cleared up around 3 pm – I had read 3 chapters of the book The War of 1812 In the Old Northwest” by Alec Gilpin.  I bought this at the Raisin River NB.  Written in 1958 and published by Michigan State University Press this still remains the definitive – perhaps only – tactical and operational study/analysis of the War in the Northwest.  Written well – easy read – interesting.  Gilpin “succeeds in presenting a somewhat complicated subject with great clarity . . . a well documented and detailed account of the actual campaigning.”   

G O L F – River Raisin Golf Club.  I drove about 15 minutes to this golf course – it has 36 holes and played 9 on the “East Course.”  I shot a 52 with 26 putts – it was just long enough to take 3 strokes to get to the green on par 4’s and it was difficult for me to finish a hole off in 2 putts.  Played in about 1 ½ hours.  $17 with cart.

MONDAY – June 9, 2014 
WEATHER:  a good morning 48 degrees, clear – got up to 75 but as I got nearer the lake the temp dropped to 65. 
TRAVEL:  Harbortown RV Resort to SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE about 315 miles.  I left at 8:45 am and got to the Campground after a stop at the Visitor Center around 3:15 pm.  Set up in less than 30 minutes and hit the road to see what I could see in the next 3 hours..

42 SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE (NL) – (Empire, MI)
Another one of those long parks – at least 25 miles at least from top to bottom.  The Visitor Center is in the Village of Empire, MI.  Platte River Campground is about 10 miles south of Empire.  Glen Arbor , MI (  a more developed village/resort community on the lake has the closest grocery store and taverns and shops).  Glen Arbor is about  7 miles north of Empire.   The gas station is in Empire.   No McDonald’s or other developments . . . .  lots or rural -rustic – much different than Indiana Dunes on the south end of Lake Michigan.  This could be a good place to visit

Sleeping Bear Dunes
Trailer at Platte River Campground
Sleeping Bear Dunes
Platte River Campground
Platte River Campground – a nice place – very inexpensive if over 65 compared to most state parks . .  . .  I got a site with electric.


I asked a ranger at the Visitor Center which beaches to visit.  There are 7 access beaches.  He named 3 beaches to visit.  When I asked why he recommended these – he said “you’ll find out when you get there.”  Each is remote – at the end of a road – they are not marked – I think few people visit them. 

Sleeping Bear Dunes - Lake Michigan
Sleeping Bear Dunes
Al's Tavern
The two most northerly beaches Good Harbor Rd and Bohemian Rd were 10 degrees cooler than any place else I was at – 56 degrees – so much for my idea of beach time.  Stopped for a beer at Al’s Tavern in Glen Arbor, MI.   Esch Rd was about 65 degrees at 6:45 pm.   Bought a book for $2 that identifies all the trails – don’t have time for them all but I will start early tomorrow.

There are plenty of canoe & kayak outfitters.  Some bike rental shops in the area.  Ludington, MI  is about 70 miles south, and 1 ½ hour drive.

LEGEND: Long ago, in the land that is now Wisconsin, a mother bear and her two cubs were driven into Lake Michigan by a raging forest fire.  They swam and swam, but soon the cubs tired and lagged far behind.  Mother bear finally reached the opposite shore and climbed to the top of a bluff to watch and wait for her offspring.  But the cubs drowned.  Today, “Sleeping Bear” a solitary dune in Michigan overlooking Lake Michigan, marks the spot where mother bear waited.  Her lost cubs are the two Manitou Islands.

A changing landscape:  Sleeping Bear Dunes is formed by a westerly wind, consist of two types of dunes.  Beach Dunes develop on low lying shores.  Their main ingredient is beach sand.  The Aral Dunes, along Platte Bay’s north shore are a good example.  Perched Dunes, sit high above the shore on plateaus.  Glacial sands atop these surfaces supplied material for these dunes.  The Sleeping Bear Dune of Anishinaabek is a perched dune.

Beach grass and sand cherry are among the first plants to grow on newly built dunes.  They act as obstacles that slow sand laden wind and force it to drop its load.  Strong winds can strip plants from the dune and carve out a bowl shaped blowout.   

TUESDAY – June 10, 2014 
WEATHER:   A 2 dog night.  It was 43 at 6 am this morning, clear . . supposed to get cloudy and in the 70’s.

42 SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE (NL) – (Empire, MI)

Started before 8 am . . . . drove to the end of the road by the Platte River Campground and found the Platte River and another beach.

Then drove to the end of Esch Rd and found another beach.

Then drove to the Dune Climb – got there around 9:30 – only 2 cars in the lot.  Decided to walk an hour on the Heritage Trail – this is paved for almost 7-8 miles – great for biking with kids or in-line skating or I saw an older guy with a skateboard – or just walking. 

When I got back to Dune Climb there were a lot more cars and at least 4 bus loads of kids – all of them running up and down Michigan’s biggest sand box. I started the Climb at 10:30 and found the first marker post for the Dunes Hiking Trail at the top. 

There are lots of hiking and biking trails at Sleeping Bear Dunes.  I decided to take the Dunes Hiking Trail.  This is decribed as STRENUOUS (it is) Hilly, all sand, and no shade.  Travels over nine hills through the high dunes plateau to Lake Michigan.  Blue tipped posts mark the trail.  I can be a hot , exhausting, three or four hour trip.  There are 28 posts that mark the trail – Each post marks the line of sight on the trail.  This was a tough one.  Only 3.5 miles round trip but it took me 3 hours (1/1/2 hours each way – grueling).    I had my backpack with me – water –a towel - a sandwich and some fruit for lunch on the beach – a half hour rest. Located part of a shipwreck that washed ashore on the beach.  More than 65 ships sunk in the Manitou Passage.  The latest was a modern freighter in 1960.  It was sunny all day until I got back, around 2 pm – then it cooled and got cloudy – there went the plan to read on the beach.    When I was at the Lake the water turned from a smooth sailing Corona commercial into something a little more aggressive.

I visited the old Coast Guard Life Saving Station and Maritime Museum on Sleeping Bear Point, and then Historic Glen Haven a boat museum and another beach.  A good number of reconstructed structures here – the remains of a 650’ pier are in the water. 

A drive down to Glen Arbor brought me to a bunch of shops.  This is where I stopped at Art’s Tavern yesterday – today’s it was Boonesdocks.

I thought I’d walk another trail but after 2 beers and my legs still aching from my Lawrence of Arabia act, I thought it wise to drive the Pierce-Stocking Scenic Drive.  This had some really beautiful vistas but it was getting hazy and cloudy. I almost took the 1.5 mile Cottonwood Trail but it promised to be all sand – I’d had enough sand.

On the way back to my campsite I did stop to walk the 1.5 miles Empire Bluff Trail.  Glad I did take this – not as difficult.  Wooded most of the way – of course there were ups and downs but again some really nice vistas.  Back to the campsite about 7:15 pm.


WEDNESDAY – June 11, 2014 
WEATHER: 62 at 6 am.  Started raining around 7:30.  Rained/misted all day.

TRAVEL:   Left SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NL Platt River Campground about 9:45; drove to the Visitor Center – to see the slide show and pick up a few items.  Left the Visitor Center about 11 am.  Arrived at Mackinaw Mill Creek Camping, Mackinaw City, MI around 2 p.m.  Rained most of the way.  .

Last weekend my site had the roar or trains and the I system -  2 days ago it was quiet as quiet can be – now – on the water – I think I’ll hear fog horns all night.
  
Set up in about 20 minutes.  A great site – right on the water – that beach I’ve been looking for can’t be 30 yards away – but it’s raining and very cool.

WIFI here is sometimes . . . . . not very fast. Not sure when any of this will get posted.  Lots of pictures from Tuesday at Sleeping Bear.  I have a jet boat ticket for Mackinac Island.

I’ve got a coupon for Mackinaw City GC – $20 for 18 with a cart.   Bought some firewood – hope it stops raining.  Went to Mackinaw City -  a very nice main street with shops and restaurants and saloons - - - - - stopped in an Irish Pub and asked for a glass of Harp and they were out of Harp until tomorrow – can’t say they were busy today. I left.  I did have some pierogies at the Depot Restaurant – not quite like grandma made but they were warm.

I went into a popcorn shop to get a small bag of caramel corn – but asked how much was the salt water taffy; $7.50 per bag or 2 for $10.  I bought 2 bags of taffy.

Weather will dictate what I do over the next few days. 

THURSDAY – June 12, 2014   
WEATHER:  56 this morning with fog and rain.  Rained all night.  Sun came out around 3 pm.

Michilimakinac
COLONIAL FORT MILICHIMACKINAC  I was impressed and spent 3 hours here.  A lot has been added since I was 12 and since Chad was 12.  Admission is $11 for adults but it’s worth a half day excursion.  Lots of history and excavations and rebuilt buildings - live programs by costumed actors/volunteers.    

Exhibits, living history and archeology in progress.  This is the 56th season of a dig at Milichimackinac, one of the longest ongoing excavations of its kind in the nation.

Recently produced AVs are available throughout the site.

In 1715 French soldiers constructed Fort Milichimackinac.  This fortified community became the great trade fur trade center for the Northwest.  In 1761 the British took control of the fort following their conquest of French Canada (French & Indian War/Seven Years War).  Fearing an attack by American rebels the fort was relocated to nearby Mackinac Island in 1780.  It was Fort Milichimackinac (US) that surrendered to the British in July 1812 during the War of 1812.  

USCG Mackinaw
Icebreaker
ICEBREAKER MACKINAW MARITIME MUSEUM Glad I did  this also.  A $11 tour.  This Mackinaw was commissioned in 1944 and decommissioned in 2006.  The new Mackinaw is still home-berthed in Cheboygen, MI.  Staffed mainly by volunteers I spent 2 hours on this self-paced tour. 




Mackinaw Golf Club
G O L F  The Mackinaw Golf Club  I had a coupon for golf here $10 for 9 holes with a cart or $20 for 18..  Not fields but cut out of the forest.  Therefore, long, fairly straight and lined with trees – some water and sand.  I shot 1 46 with 17 putts.

WIFI at the campsite is now non-existent.




FRIDAY – June 13, 2014 
WEATHER:  got down to the 40’s last night.  56 in the t he trailer this morning.  Sun was up but it didn’t  last – got cloudy – started raining about 7:30 – stopped around 8:30 - - - - - -

STILL NO WIFI available at Mackinaw Creek Camping.  It’s not that I can’t get connected, which is frustrating in itself – only 2 bars when I did connect, but it just flat isn’t available.  Don’t come here if you have to rely on their WIFI.

TRAVEL: Took the Star Line jet boat $23 for an “18 minute” round trip ride. However, a boat broke down.  There were 4 busloads, of what must have been 8th graders, when I reached the dock at 9:30, for a 10:00 trip.  The boats were delayed, so they said for a half hour, due to one that broke down.  I got a book from my truck, sat down and read a chapter.  Eventually, Star Line got 2 smaller boats going, left the Mackinaw City dock at 10:48 – got to Mackinac Island about 22 minutes later.   I was one of the last in line so I earned the privilege of sitting on the top deck.  It was rough & windy

MACKINAC ISLAND 
Walked Main Street – touristy just  like I remember.  Lots of fudge shops, boutiques and souvenir shops.
No “horseless carriages” allowed on the island. Stopped by a Visitor Center and bought a $12 ticket  -  plenty to do here.  It was a good buy.  Good for entrance to:

Fort Mackinac

FORT MACKINAC – There was a lot to see here – spent about 2 hours.  Over 22 named places to visit here
Fort Mackinac was founded during the American Revolution.  Believing that Fort Milichimackinac, in what is now Mackinaw City, was too vulnerable to American attack, The British moved the fort to Mackinac Island in 1780.

 Americans took control of it in 1790. In July 1812, in the first land engagement of the War of
Fort Mackinac Diorama
British Surrender War of 1812
1812 in the US, the British captured the Fort .  An invasion force of 800 British regulars, Canadian militia and Indians landed on the north end of the island with 2 cannon.  The American garrison of 69 was hopelessly outnumbered and surrendered.  An American attempt to take back the Fort later failed.  Mackinac Island was important because it served as the center for the fur trade in the north.  The US regained the fort at the end of the war.

Tourist trade began after the Civil War.


Fort Mackinac - British Drill
The Fort remained active, and was considered a “desirable posting.”  Mackinac Island became the US second National  Park.  The army garrison improved the park and acted as its first rangers.   When the army removed the garrison in 1895, the Park and Fort were transferred  to the State of Michigan.  The Mackinac Island State Park Commission protects, preserves and operates the park and its sites now. 



LOCACTED OUTSIDE THE FORT:
MCGULPIN HOUSE – Home of William McGulpin, a baker for the American Fur Company – an excellent example of early French Canadian domestic architecture.

BIDDLE HOUSEEdward Biddle was from a prominent East Coast family and took up residence on the island after the War of 1812.  Biddle was an independent fur trader, businessman and held offices in the community.

Makinac Island - American Fur Company Store



BENJAMIN BLACKSMITH SHOP – Originally built in the 1880’s Robert Benjamin and later his son Herbert ran this shop.  Today it is exactly the way Benjamin left it when he retired in the early 1960’s.  The smith here was talkative and informative.  He was making spiral candle holders, like those in the basement tavern at Gettysburg..

AMERICAN FUR COMPANY STORE & DR. BEAUMONT MUSEUM – It was here where voyageur Alexis St. Martin was accidentally shot in the stomach on June 6, 1822.  Fort Mackinac surgeon Dr. William Beaumont managed to keep St. Martin alive but the hole in his stomach never healed.  Through this hole, Dr. Beaumont conducted experiments and observed the workings of the stomach and discovered much about the human digestive system.

MISSION CHURCH – an Episcopal Church.







Yankee-Rebel Tavern
Mackinac Island



Had lunch at the Yankee-Rebel.  This place got its name from an Ameircan who lived here and refused to take a loyalty oath to the King when the British captured the fort 1812.  He said he was ‘born an American and will stay an American until the day he dies.’

Decided to take the Official Mackinac Island Carriage Tour – Cost $26.  Just had to do this – hadn’t taken it since the 60’s and I wasn’t going to rent a bike for a 8 mile bike ride around the Island.    The patter of the college kids who drive the rigs, probably hasn’t changed since 1960 – same bad jokes – same tour.   As in the past.   Through historic downtown, much of which I’d already visited, the Grand Hotel, past the ‘new’ stables, change carriages at the Surrey Hill Museum, a ride through the park, Arch Rock and back to a drop off point just past the fort - by the Governor’s Summer Residence.



Mackinac Island Carraige Tour - Grand Hotel
Stopped by a bar called the Pink Pony – would have stayed longer if time allowed.  They had a guy playing guitar and singing here that was good.


Mackinac Bridge from the dock of the USCG Mackinaw

Took the boat  back – this one went under the Mackinac Bridge.  It was larger than the boat I took out.

SATURDAY – June 14, 2014     FLAG DAY
WEATHER:  A 3 dog night.  42 degrees at 7 am and 50 in the trailer. The sun came out for awhile then it clouded up- then the sun came out again.  It may be a nice day – got up to 64 – mostly sunny.

STILL NO WIFI available at Mackinaw Creek Camping

Today should be a lazy day – nothing planned except doing laundry, maybe making my phone a hot spot and updating the blog(actually it just doesn’t want to work up here – not even a hot spot on my phone) and maybe just for fun drive across the bridge to St. Ignace.

Did laundry.  Drove across the bridge to St. Ignace – a bore – not much there - old – couldn’t even find a tavern where I wanted to stop and have a beer.




Went to Mass at St. Anthony of Padua Church, Mackinaw City, MI 6 pm – the priest was from Cincinnati..

OBSERVATION/RECOMMENDATION: 
1.    Stay at Mackinaw City.   The downtown is humming, compact and plenty of shops. Be sure to see Fort Milichimackinac.
2.    Plenty of hotels, of course it’s been cold and this is the middle of June and it’s a weekend but I didn’t see one hotel with “No Vacancy”.
3.    Bring bikes and take them on the ferry to Mackinac Island or rent them on the island.
4.    Stay at least 1 night on Mackinac Island, maybe 2 nights..  Plenty of happening places on the island downtown. See Fort Mackinac.  Stop by the Visitor Center and buy a guide book.  Tour by bike/walking one day and then downtown and the Fort the next.  There are public golf courses on the Island – you don’t have to golf or stay at the Grand Hotel.
5.    If you’re only on the Island for one day and don’t bike it – the Carriage Ride tour is an option.
ENJteOY THE FUDGE

SUNDAY – June 15, 2014 
WEATHER:   Sunny, very windy, in the 50’s got up to 65 but cool because of the wind.
TRAVEL: Mackinaw Mill Creek Camping to Brimley State Park , Brimley, MI.  This trip was about 52 miles.  Just a little over an hour.  The bridge toll was $4 for the truck, then $2 per axel for a total of $8.

Brimley State Park
Brimley is a nice park. Wide sites about 50 x 50, some smaller.  Only electric on site.  Clean shower and restrooms – on Whitefish Bay (Lake Superior).   Very windy  - started to rain about 8pm.  Because of the wind – no travel – just read a few chapters “The War of 1812 in the Old Northwest.”  A reprint of a book published by University of Michigan Press in 1958 by Alec R. Gilpin.  Still the best book around on the War in the Northwest.   It’s Sunday and not many people here.  No bugs here – yet.

NO WIFINO INTERNET ON MY PHONE – I did get a phone message at 12:14 pm EDT indicating:
“Welcome to Canada.  Dial +1 & 10 digit number to call US.  For Roaming Support call +1-908-559-5899.”
Then I got another message
“Depending on your plan, calls made & received at $0.89/min.  Pic/Video msgs, web use, tethering, and apps use date while roaming.”

I did speak to Amy around 3 pm, lost a call to Chad, my brother tried to text me and spoke to Paul around 7pm where he was it was 2am. I spoke to Kristin before I left Mackinaw City.   
Happy Father’s Day!

MONDAY – June 16, 2014
WEATHER:  rained a good part of last night – sunny at 5:30am – fairly dry – sandy soil just sops up the rain.  I’m unsure of the temperature.  Listening to the radio, it’s supposed to be a nice day with a high of 23. Now convert Centigrade to Fahrenheit for me please.

Soo Locks - boat tour
Well, I can’t confirm C to F but it got up to 80-81 degrees F today.  Sun out almost all day – few clouds.  It was warm in the pm.


Sault (Soo) Locks, Sault Ste. Marie.  Drove to Sault Ste Marie, MI about 20 miles.  I took the 10 am Soo Locks boat tour.  American side has 4 locks.  We went through the MacArthur Lock (built in the 40’s – named after – yes, you guessed right).  It was a good tour – I’m glad I went today.  Yesterday, due to the wind the water even on the St. Mary’s River had 5 ft waves.  Calm when we left, the wind picked up when we returned through the Canadian lock.  It appears SR Steel  is the huge plant on the Canadian side.  Piles of sand, limestone, taconite, coal and slag.   $25 for the 2 hour boat ride.  It may seem  expensive for a family,  but overall worth it.  It cost me $23 just to get to Mackinac Island and back ( 40 minute and no guided tour – just bouncy on the water).  I took lots of pictures.


Soo Locks - stell mills
Sault Ste Marie has lots to offer . . . . . parks, museums, K-Marts, Wal-Marts, McDonald’s and even a Verizon Store.  I stopped in at Verizon and they fixed my lost weather “wigget” on my home screen on n the phone.  They said Canada has no FCC so they just overpower the Verizon signal in some places.





Paradise, MI -  I drove on M123 through this town. It gives a whole different meaning to  “another day in paradise.”

Lower Tahquamenon Falls


Lower Tahquamenon Falls – a state park, so this is a fee area.  Good trails.  Nice Park.  Mosquitoes are on trail, be sure to wear repellant.   Trail is all wood bridges and asphalt to the Falls.  They also have a Gift  a fairly large gift shop here.  A rowboat ride out to the island to view the Falls may be worth while for kids.





Upperr Tahquamenon Falls
Upper Tahquamenon Falls – a state park, just 4 miles  from the Lower Falls.  Again good trails.  Very Nice park.  Don’t believe the count on the number of steps to the viewing areas.  I think they undercount.  A larger gift shop here, along with a Brewery and Pub.  I had to have a “Lumberjack Lager.”





BRIMLEY – stopped for a Miller.  Lots of older locals in here.

A very nice night, listening to 60’s music - but its 10 pm and still light out.   Maybe summer got here. . . . Burning the wood I bought for $3.50 – a good deal.  I want to see the stars . . . . . .  11:10 pm and still twilight – saw stars but still twilight – went to bed

TUESDAY – June 17, 2014 
No WIFI and sporadic phone service as you travel the area.
WEATHER:  foggy,  high 50’s started raining around 6:30am.  Rained until almost 2:30 pm – foggy.  Cleared around 4 pm got up to 75 inland then dropped quickly.  The fog and no wind brought out the mosquitoes. 


Muskellonge Lake State Park

TRAVEL:  Brimley State Park to Muskallonge Lake State Park, Newberry, MI.  About an 80 mile drive but 23 miles of it is at the end of County Road 47.  Woke up around 6 am it was around 60 and raining.    The campground is bordered by Muskallonge Lake on one side and Lake Superior on the other – sand and warm water on one side stones and cold water on the other – except the temp dropped 10 degrees by the time I got to the campground.  So much for “cooler near the lake.”  The rain settled to a drizzle – set up – lengthwise – like a drive through – very uneven ground,  but still foggy .

Muskallonge State Park - trailer
Muskallonge Lake State Park is at the end of the road.  You really have to want to come here to get here. The park is nicely situated, but the asphalt roads here are narrow and in need of repair; clean showers and restrooms, but the ground is slopping-hard to find anything close to level.  Several rigs pulled in and left.





Whitefish Point State Park
Shipwreck Museum
Whitefish Point
Lighthouse
Drove to Whitefish Point State Park – another place at the end of another road M – almost 70 miles one way.  Visited the Shipwreck MuseumWhitefish Point is the site of a lighthouse and a past Coast Guard/Life Saving Station. Entrance to the museum was $12 – nice – modern – but there’s got to be more than just it’s featured bell of the Edmund Fitzgerald.  The bell is a memorial to the 29 men who lost their lives.  Just couldn’t get myself to buy a book on the shipwreck . . . . .  there were no survivors, no one is really sure what happened – but it was a huge storm 80 ft waves in November 1975 – somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 miles from here she lies in 535 feet of water.  The light keepers house was a good walk through, as well was the boat house.  Very friendly, knowledgeable volunteers work here.

Thought it was going to be another nice sunset but the fog came in like smoke around 8 pm.  Cooled off from 60 degrees to 50, in minutes.   It may be a 3 dog night.

WEDNESDAY – June 18, 2014
Still no WIFI and dubious phone service.
WEATHER:   55 in trailer at 5:15 am, probably 45 outside – initially clear then it got foggy by 6 am.  It’s supposed to be a nice day.
TRAVEL:   Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is about an 80 mile drive.  The location is not considered part of the Eastern UP.

43 PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE (NL) – (Munising, MI)
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Visitor Center

Sandstone cliffs, beaches, sand dunes, waterfalls, and shoreline are at Pictured Rocks.  
The Lakeshore hugs Lake Superior’s shoreline for over 40 miles. They have camping here but like Indiana Dunes – no electric sites – no reservations – and even generator use is prohibited on many sites (tree hugger purists).

A 2 hr+  drive to Munising.  Saw my fist deer on the 23 mile dead-end road to the campground.  Stopped at joint NPS/NFS Visitor Center.   I returned after the cruise to watch 3 videos – nothing but an advertisement.   Don’t waste your time.

Visitor Information Centers located in Munising, Munising Falls (out to lunch 1:30 pm), Miner’s Castle, the Au Sable Light Station by the time I got there (6pm) and Grand Sable also closed (7pm) near Grand Marais.

I spent 9 hours in the park.  That’s one advantage of EDST – lots of daylight.  You can easily spend 2 days here – maybe 5 if you do a lot of walking, the kayaking or glass bottom wreck cruise.  There are over 100 miles of trails in the park.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore  -  map


Pictured Rocks cruise
fog coming in
Pictured Rocks cruise

















I took the 10 am Pictured Rocks Cruise.  It cost $36 – this is a National Lakeshore and I don’t plan to walk the 40 miles of shoreline.  In fact, the only way to see much of the Rocks is by water and it’s way too cold to take a sea kayak tour.  The water is 36 degrees – hence the chance for fog.  The air temp was 48 when we left the dock. Spent about 2 hrs 40 minutes on the boat,  it took us along the coast to Chapel Rock – just about where the sand dunes start.   It was clear there and back except when the fog set in for the last ½ hour.  Yesterday, they only got one boat off around 4pm and it didn’t get halfway to the turn around when fog set in again.  Sunday no cruises at all because of the wind and waves.
Grand Island National Recreation Area is located on Grand island across from Munising .  There is a ferry and possibly a van tour (no vehicles allowed on the island – can’t really say there are any paved roads). Grand island was purchased by the US Forest Service (USFS) in 1990.   So I don’t believe it’s officially one part of the National Park Service (NPS) – not one of the places I have to visit. Lot’s of hiking trails and rustic campsites.

SHORT GEOLOGY LESSON:  The numerous layers of the sandstone cliffs and the colorful patterns led to the name Pictured Rocks. The patterns are caused by mineral stains on t e surface as mineral laden water seeps through the rock. Blue and green stains are copperblack is manganeseyellow, red and orange are iron . . .  and the brown from the tannic acid of the trees and vegetation.             


Miner’s Castle
Pictured Rocks - Miners Castle Overlook
Painted Coves
Lover’s Leap
Indian Head
Gull Rookery
Grand Portal
Battleship Rock
Indian Drum
Chapel Rock

Lots of sand and gravel highways ups here.  Alger County H-58 was just paved in 2010. Now a slow speed scenic drive to Sable Falls, Log Slide, Hurricane River and Twelve Mile Beach.

Pictured Rocks
Sable Falls
Munising Falls Trail – a short trail to a cool, shaded canyon.  You can notice the change in temp.  Views of the 50 foot waterfall.

Sand Point Marsh Trail – a ½ mile trail mostly boardwalk over the marsh.  Saw my 2nd deer here – just in front of me, to the right of the trail, feeding near the marsh.

Miner’s Falls Trail – a 1.2 mile trail ending at the 40 ft Falls.

Miner’s Castle and Miner’s Beach.   The miner name goes back to 1771 when some folks were searching here for minerals – they found none but the name “Miner’s” has endured.

Twelve Mile Beach Campground -  very tight turning for vehicles here – nothing over a combined length of 42 feet.
Little Beaver Lake Campground - White Pine Trail connects to the North Country National Scenic Trail. Again very tight – narrow, twisting, hilly.  Dirt roads lead to these places.  I didn’t drive there.


Hurricane River Campground – North Country Trail. Nothing larger here than 36 total length. Only one camper on the site - tents.

Hurricane River

Log Slide Trail – half mile trail.

Sable Falls Trail – a walk of a little more than a mile round trip – down to the Lake then up again.  Did not walk to the Au Sable Light House.

Grand Sable Dunes – I’ve had enough dunes – no need to do it here

THURSDAY – June 19, 2014 
WEATHER:  Today it was sunny, 52 in the trailer at 5:40 am, probably low 40’s outside.  The cool of Lake Superior makes the difference.  No fog.
TRAVELMuskallonge Lake State Park, Newberry, MI to McLain State Park, Hancock, MI.  A 243 mile trip through Munising, Marquette, Houghton, Hanock.

I broke down yesterday and bought a book on the Edmund Fitzgerald at the NPS Pictured Rock Visitor Center in Munising. Also bought “The Song of Hiawatha” by Longfellow – never had read it – now’s is the time on the shores of “gitchigumee”.   Culture for the week

NO IDEA WHEN I’M GOING TO POST THIS OR ADD THE PICTURES.  IT’LL PROBABLY TAKE 4 HOURS TO UPDATE AND THEN I’M NOT SURE WHO’S GOING TO READ THIS OR CARE.

FRIDAY – June 20, 2014   
WEATHER:   Looked very promising at 5:30am – sun was coming up over the lake to the east, then it started to rain around 6:15 am.  Should be off and on showers all day.  Currently 50 degrees – forecast calls for a high of 60. Actually it got colder -  down to 46;  rained until 3 pm, then some fog for good measure. 

44 KEWEENAW NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK (NHP) – (Calumet, MI)
Keweenaw - Central Mine Visitor Center
From 7,00 years ago to the 1900’s people mined Keweenaw  (pronounced:  Key wah nah) copper.  Native Americans made copper into tools and trade items.  Investors and immigrant arrived in the 1800’s in a great mineral rush, developing thriving industries and cosmopolitan communities.  Though the mines have since closed, their mark is still visible on the land.



Keweenaw - Central Mine 
I ran out of time today.  The Keweenaw NHP consists of a Visitor Center and Partner Sites – too numerous to mention or see all in a day or 2. I learned a lot about “copper country.”  Even though it rained all day, I could have seen more museums, old mine sites, and I didn’t even plan to walk any trails.  A good 3 days can be spent here from the historical/cultural perspective.  Some of the “partner”Keweenaw Heritage Sites are only open July and August.

The Kewaunee County Historical Society and state of Michigan have a lot to do with preserving the heritage of the region. Very interesting and worth a visit – I won’t write much about the Copper Mining  process and history of the region – way too much to cover.


Quincy Mine
hoist
Quincy Mine - drill
the guide was a mining student
CALUMET UNIT – Visitor Center is open as staffing allows.  Luckily it was open today – refurbished old Union Hall – former Masonic Lodge.  Three stories – 2 full of exhibits.  I spent about 2 hours here.  This appears to be the only place staffed by USPS Rangers. Calumet was the site of another mine – and once had over 40,000 residents.  Schools, over 22 churches, ethnic  and social clubs, an opera house – still a cultural center for the Keweenaw Peninsula

Drove north from Calumet to Copper Harbor along US 41.  The is a 36 mile drive, the last 15 miles are winding through forest.  Copper Harbor and nearby Fort Wilkins State Park could be a day trip by themselves. 
Fort Wilkins State Park almost at the end of the road has camping, fishing, hiking,  gift shop and a staffed recreation of old Fort Wilkins.  This is set up really well – you could spend just 2 hours going through the fort.

The end of Highway 41.

Keweenaw - Quincy Mine & Hoist

QUINCY UNIT – Information Desk at Quincy Mine - QUINCY MINE & HOIST – staffing can be intermittent.  Not staffed until maybe July, but the mine is run by the Quincy Mine Hoist Association (a partner) – so the gift shop and mine tour were open.  The tour cost me $17 for about 2+ hours of a tour through a skrit of the mine (former classroom for Michigan Tech student on level 7 of the mine. 

A.E. Seaman
Mineral Museum
I could have spent a half day just here.  There is a lot of above ground to see.

A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum – Michigan Technological University. -  Houghton, MI  Admission is $6 - $5 for seniors -another Heritage Site.  Never got to this place, it closed at 5pm.  I may pack up and see it on Saturday before I leave.

There are 19 Keweenaw Heritage Sites –  they preserve and interpret the story of the rise , domincaiton and decline of the region’s copper mining industry.  The sites embody stories of hardship, ingenuity, struggle and success - you could spend a week on the peninsula.

SATURDAY – June 21, 2014 
WEATHER:  47 degrees (inland) according to the radio at 5:45 am.  It’s supposed to get up to 70 today never did where I was.  Rained until  0920 then the inevitable fog. 

ISLE ROYALE HEADQUARTERS – HANCOCK, MI This is interesting – Keweenaw NHP seems to fall under this Superintendent with headquarters here not in Minnesota.  There are 2 ferry routes  across Lake Superior that travel Lake Superior from the Keweenaw area to Isle Royale -a long trip by water.  Drove to Isle Royale Headquarters – of course it was closed and the gate locked.

A.E. Seaman
Mineral Museum
I stopped at the A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum, part of Michigan Technological University, a nice museum of minerals – cost $6 – very interesting for the first 30 minutes, but then it became just about as interesting as watching rocks . . . . .  Still I spent about 1 ½ hours here – a great place for maybe Geology Majors.  A Heritage site.

TRAVEL: McLain State Park to Apostle Islands Campground, Bayfield, WI.   A trip of about 190 miles – Left McLain around 1240. Eventually got to US 2 – past in order Indianhead, Blackjack and Powederhorn ski resorts.  Then through Ashland to Washburn and Bayfield.  This new campground is adequate but  - compared to a state park – the state park would be better.



Heard that there was a concert tonight Big Top Chautauqua – so, since I gained an hour coming back into CDT – 5:30 – concert time at 7:30 – I called and they said tickets were available at the door (oh yeah back into cell phone territory)  – so I left here around 6 pm – about a 5 mile drive down the road toward Washburn and got a second row seat, just to the left of the performers center stage for Judy Collins and Don McLean.


Both of these performers are about 10 years my senior – so was most  of the crowd – of course Judy was the “Blue Eyes”  of Stephen Stills “Suite: Judy.”   No pictures allowed of JudyStills also wrote “Helplessly Hoping”  - she sang that and a number of others.  A polished performer . . .   She's been doing this for awhile.  “Both Sides Now” was the second number and was off - - - - sound problem - - - -  it got better – She said a lot about Leonard Cohen – apparently another love back in the late 60’s early 70’s - - - - - she had recorded and sang  “Suzanne.”   Just Judy with a guitar and very long white hair, a musical director/piano player, and her sound guy.


Big Top Chetaqua
Don McLean

Don McLean – had a chance to see him in Atlanta coming back from Florida with Myrna – didn’t get tickets – too expensive.  You could take pics of McLean.  A unique band – a piano player who looked like “Lurch” – a durmmer with gray/white hair almost as long as Judy’s – it was perfect – a bass player that reminded me of an attorney I know from the Chicago Civil War Roundtable and a guitar player that reminded me of one of the first lead guitar guys I ever played with back in high school.  Of course he did “American Pie” and his encore was “Vincent” with a new song entitled  “Grief and Hope.”  He says he sings from the heart – I’m sure he does but he’s not as polished as Judy – Judy still has her voice – Don has lost a bit. Of the voice and put on a bit in other places.  I did get his autograph.

SUNDAY – June 22, 2014
WEATHER: rained last night. Fog in the morning – 46 degrees – a 3 dog night. Cloudy all day. Fof until around noon.

8:30 am MASS At St. Louis Catholic Church  in Washburn, WI about 10 miles down the road from here

45 APOSTLE ISLANDS NATIONAL LAKESHORE (NL) – (, WI)
Apostle Islands National Lakeshore
Went to the Visitor Center located in the old County Court house building in Bayfield.  Saw a 20 minute film produced in 2000.  This is a National Lakeshore – so I bought for the “only way to see the Apostle Islands  . . .” Apostle Islands Cruise Lines; a 3 ¼ hour tour tomorrow at 10 am – hopefully it won’t be as foggy.

Walked around the shops – very nice.  Sunday – a lot of people headed home.

Ferry to Madeline Island
Decided to go to Madeline Island . . . . ferried the truck over  ($24.50 vehicle round trip + $13.50 per person) around 1230.  A short, smooth ride compared to Put-In-Bay or Mackinac Island ferries. Another place to bring you bikes.

Historic Background – MADELINE ISLAND:  In 1659, the explorers and fur traders Groseilliers and Radisson came to Chequamegon Bay  and for 150 years, it was an outpost of French, British, and American fur traders.  After the Sault St. Marie Locks were built in 1855, the area became home to new settlers.  Like people before them they traveled by water.  Passenger and freight ferries criss-crossed the Bay.  As railways and roads improved, ferries, except those linking Bayfield and LaPointe, faded away.  The ferries today run from end of March to freeze-up.  The Island is named after Madeline Cadotte

Apostle Islands - Madeline Island
Visited the Madeline Island Museum  (a Wisconsin Historic Site) cost me $6 for entry.   It’s run by the Wisconsin Historical Society – the historic buildings were dismantled and brought to the site.  It appears to have a heavy emphasis on the Ojibway – especially end of 19th – early 20th century.  A twenty minute video produced in 2000 – still relevant – good local music. Some hands on exhibits and dress up for little kids - spent a little over an hour here. 

Drove to  Big Bay State Park.   I had considered staying here but was concerned about ferrying the trailer – well, I could have made it happen . . . .  a few sites with electric – typical state park.  There are plenty of trails – The Barrier Beach Board Walk Trail is very informative – different than Indiana or Sleeping Bear Dunes.  A very pleasant walk – but it was cool – just a few annoying mosquitoes to remind you that you’re in Wisconsin.  The reason to come to Big Bay is hiking; at the end of the road,  about 6-7 miles from La Point – the ferry stop. 

Since I had my truck I thought I’d play 9 at Madeline Island Golf Club – many of the greens are huge double greens.  However, they had a members outing in the evening and wouldn’t let me on – oh well - - the Apostle Highlands Golf Course is just up the road from my campsite – maybe Monday pm or Tuesday depending on the weather.

Could have spent more time on the island – rent a bike or hiking or kayaking -  but went back to Bayfield on the 6:30 pm ferry.   


MONDAY – June 23, 2014  

WEATHER:
   46 degree wakeup –  sun peaked through the clouds around 0620 - it’s supposed to hit 70 with storms today – but this is near Lake Superior and “the lake is the boss.”  It was clear and sunny until 5 pm – got up to the mid 70’s inland.  Much cooler on the Lake or near the Lake. The water temp is 37 degrees. 


G O L F – stopped by the Apostle Highlands GC before going to the dock.  This course and clubhouse are much nicer than Madeline Island – public no “members.”   The day was perfect – but – I had a ticket for the 10am cruise – maybe tomorrow.

45 APOSTLE ISLANDS NATIONAL LAKESHORE (NL) – (, WI)
Apostle Islands Cruise – the sky cleared  - mostly – did not stop at any of the islands but saw most of them – cruised close to Hermit, Stockton, Oak, Manitou, Ironwood, Otter, Rocky, Devils, Bear, Raspberry, and Oak.   None of them sounded like names of apostles – well maybe Rocky could be stretched to signify Peter.   There are 22 islands – no one is sure of the origin of the name Apostle Islands.

Apostle Island - Hermit Island - Stand Rock
Around noon near Devils Island I could see the clouds forming and fog coming in off of Superior – it enveloped us for about 20 minutes until we got to Raspberry Island.  I wore a long sleeve t shirt, a sweat shirt and a windbreaker.   Glad I brought a thermos of coffee along.   This would be a wonderful cruise on a clear warm summer day in August – or maybe even late September when the leaves change.


Drove though the Red Cliff Band of Chippewa Reservation up to Little Sand Visitor Center.  It was staffed by a friendly volunteer couple.  A local town campground here – it would be a very nice palce to stay.

Apostle Islands - sea caves
Continued down Highway 13 to Meyers Beach Kayak Launch.  In my experience the volunteers carry the Park Service – I think most of the Park Rangers hate their jobs and the people they are supposed to service.  Here I wanted to walk a trail to view the sea caves (but  I already saw some by  boat on Devils Island) – Everybody said the trail was muddy – there were even warnings before you started the trail - but
 I had heard you could miss some of the mess by walking the beach – so for about 1/3 mile I walked the beach and then it was an uphill climb for the next 45 minutes – somehow I missed trail that crossed a very bad dirt road (could have been Ft. McCoy) that connected to a better road (of course I should have realized it was out of the park) and walked this for about 45 minutes uphill – now this was warm  - plenty of flies and mosquitoes – the air was  still – but not as bad as the Dune Climb  – there were a lot of flowers – after an hour out I headed back and found the trail I had missed – thought I’d take it back to the parking lot – NOT – it really was muddy – back to the beach.  At any rate I got a 2 hour workout.

Back at the Meyers Beach parking lot I found an envelope on my window to pay for the parking . . . . ranger meter maids – I had even hung my Park Pass in the window – so I got 50% off and made sure I stuffed that envelope with all the 21 pennies, 10 nickels and 8 dimes I had for a total of $1.51 – threw  in an extra penny for luck.  Headed back and stopped at Marty’s in Bayfield for a Pabst $2.25.
 
You could spend a lot of time here – there are plenty of trails on the mainland and on the islands - the real way to see islands  - is sail or kayak or take a shuttle to them – with camping gear – hike and stay overnight – adventure camp . . . . . . . well not for me anymore. The cruise was fine.

TUESDAY – June 24, 2014 
WEATHER:  A heat wave it was 53, cloudy, thunderstorms rolled through around 6 am. 53 gives a whole new meaning to “as good as it gets”  - forecast of  high in the mid 50’s today.  When I started golfing –around 9am, iit was 49 and calm by 5pm it was 43 with a 20 mph wind – what’s that for a wind chill?  No snow.



G O L F – APOSTLE HIGHLANDs GC -  This place is just up the road from where I’m staying. Very nice – narrow fairways – the rough is very rough – because of the rain and need for a cut, the greens are unbearably slow –there wasn’t a straight putt to be found - “undulating” course – reminded me of some Kettle Moraine courses where, if you hit the side of the fairway – it’s like ping pong /bumper pool golf – other times the “The Tennessean” ravines to the right and left.  The course would be very nice if it were clear.  Lost 3 balls - in the open.  Shot a 52 with 23 putts in about an hour and 30 minutes.



Drove to Duluth – to find a Best Buy “Geek” – he couldn’t fix/reinstall the WIFI – but told me for $225 and their one year maintenance plan and if I left it with their tech support for 2-3 days they’d fix it – of course I should have a back up of everything on it.  He said it was slow because of programs loading that aren’t needed and virus’s and malware won’t let it load WIFI.  What is Kaspersky supposed to do?  WHAT A COME ON!  - no charge but the gas and the time - but it kept me out of the Red Cliff Casino.

NORTHERN GREAT LAKES VISITOR CENTER – this place is located just west of Ashland on US 2.  This is an interagency affair.  I should have started my trip here.  I saw  2 films – one was the History Channel’s Shipwrecks on the Great Lakes – emphasized the Edmund Fitzgerald and the other a short 10 minute local.  Both were very good.  The Exhibits were most interesting – a little of Aldo LeopoldJohn Muir.  There was a ¾ mile nature trail that looked very interesting but at 43 with a 20 mph winds with a mist – way too miserable outside - went back to the trailer – looking forward to another 3 dog night on June 24th in Wisconsin. “The lake is the boss.”


WEDNESDAY – June 25, 2014
WEATHER:  Cloudy 46 degrees for a wakeup; 53 in the trailer -  some wind.
TRAVEL:  Apostle Islands Area Campground to Interstate State Park, St. Croix Falls, WI.  This was a very nice drive.  I went through Cable, Hayward, Rice Lake, and Spooner.  The surprise was the Namekagon River.


46 ST. CROIX NATIONAL SCENIC RIVER (NSR) – Namekagon River Visitor Center (Trego, WI)
St. Croix National Scenic Riverway
The Namekagon and the St. Croix were both championed by Gaylord Nelson and Walter Mondale to be set aside for protection by the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. Both grew up near these rivers.  I believe the Namekagon to be a gem.  I came across the Visitor Center by accident.  A very friendly ranger here – she was knowledgeable and even thought out in the middle of almost nowhere, she liked her job and knew her stuff.  The film here was top notch.   This is a place to canoe down the river – a real canoe trip – rustic camping.  There are a number of “River Landings” along US 63 which parallels the Namekagon for a good ways. NPS has established at least 8 maps of river trips.  This I could do.

Interstate State Park
Glacial Pothole
Clean water – lush landscapes – and quiet.  The Namekagon and St. Croix National Scenic Riverway run along a 255 mile corridor.

INTERSTATE STATE PARK, WI – another gem. Located along the St. Croix River This is

the Western Terminus of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail – a 1,200 mile long trail – all in Wisconsin (The Eastern Terminus is in Potawatomi State Park in Door county).  There is an Ice Age Interpretive Center here with a very good family oriented film about hiking and the geology of the glaciers  The nine units of the Ice Age National Scientific Reserve include Two Creeks Buried Forest (Two Rivers); Kettle Moraine; Campbellsport Drumlins; Horicon Marsh; Cross Plains; Devil’s Lake; Mill Bluff; Chippewa Moraine (Bloomer); and Interstate State Park.

Interstate has 12 separate hiking trails with interpretive signs ranging from .3 to 1.3 miles in length.  

46 ST. CROIX NATIONAL SCENIC (NSR) – St. Croix River Visitor Center (St. Croix, WI)

St. Croix National Scenic Riverway


The St. Croix River and a tributary called the Namekagon was one of eight rivers set aside for protection by the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968.  As one of the original eight, the St. Croix is the only one managed by the NPS.  The riverway features outstanding scenery and natural resources.

I got here around 4:30 pm to watch the exodus of rangers from the building.  But it was open until 5, the ranger inside didn’t seem to watch the clock. He probably liked his job . . . . .  same film here as at Namekagon but Namekagon is newer and has better exhibits.  I did walk a very short but informative nature trail that is on the Visitor Center grounds.  Good display of wildflowers.  The St. Croix is the park.

Stopped by St. Croix GC – an “undulating” 9 hole course.  Leagues tomorrow at 4pm – will try to play before then.






THURSDAY – June 26, 2014 
WEATHER:  a good morning – started out sunny then cloudy by 8 am.  It should get up to 70’s today.  First time I put on shorts in over a week.

46 ST. CROIX NATIONAL SCENIC RIVER (NSR) – St. Croix River Visitor Center (St. Croix, WI)  Visited This place at 9 am.  Not much here.  Saw most of what I needed to see yesterday.

Drove downtown and thought I’d take my PC to an IT place for repair.  They didn’t open until 10 am – had a cup of coffee –waited for them to open & I WAS IMPRESSED.   They charge a flat rate for a repair or fix.  Jacob explained all in detail – I explained that the main issue was no WIFI. He appeared confident that they could repair by 5 pm.

INTERSTATE STATE PARK – TRAILS
I’ve been studying and aware of the glacier trails in Wisconsin since at least 1960 or 61 when as a Boy Scout I walked the 28 mile opening of the Glacier Trail from Mauthe Lake to  Greenbush.  Kames, eskers, drumlins, kettles . . . . . but this gives me a whole new appreciation and understanding of the geology – it’s landscape – not just rocks – Keweenaw was more historical and cultural – this is great!

ST CROIX VALLEY GOLF COURSE – a nine hole,  par 36 course, shot 52 with 23 putts 1 lost ball, UNDULATING course and greens – little sand or water but again narrow and average size greens – hit it or you will be in trouble.  It was fun played in about 1 hours 35 minutes.

St. Croix Falls - Easy IT Guys
The “Easy IT Guys” called this time it was Chuck - who spoke fast - said I’d drop by.  There were issues and they understood my need to get the repair done so I could be on the road by 10 am.  I said I’d go to the corner bar while they continued to work on it (they close at 6).  At 6 :45 I got a call and after asking Ray the bartender what Jacob drank – walked out of there with 2 Spotted Cow’s for Jacob and Chuck.  They indicated that they’d continue to work on the PC and repair.  There were issues with the PC – it was slow because there were over 600 files that didn’t need to be there and something “deep” was preventing the WIFI from connecting.  

INTERSTATE STATE PARK – TRAILS
I’ve been studying and aware of the glacier trails in Wisconsin since at least 1960 or 61 when as a Boy Scout I walked the 28 mile opening of the Glacier Trail from Mauthe Lake to  Greenbush.  Kames, eskers, drumlins, kettles . . . . . but this gives me a whole new appreciation and understanding of the geology – it’s the landscape – not just rocks – Keweenaw was more historical and cultural – this is great!

POTHOLE TRAIL – The Western Terminus of the 1.200 mile National Scenic Ice Age Trail and the most geologically unique trail in the park.  Scenic views of the Dalles – lots of pot holes.
EAGLE PEAK TRAIL – the highest point in the park overlooking the vally.  Probably a better view when the leaves are gone.
SILVERBROOK TRAIL –  nothing exciting her
SKYLINE NATURE TRAIL – rather boring.


FRIDAY – June 27, 2014 
WEATHER:  cloudy but muggy – around 70
TRAVEL: Interstate State Park to Tarrant Park, Durand, WI. Rain cloudy in the high 78-83. .  Broke down the trailer – ready to go as soon as the PC was ready.   Colfax had a tornado around 3:15.  Never played golf raining.

RIVER BLUFF TRAIL – a very nice walk and scenic view.

Got a call around 10:00 from the “Easy IT Guys” – spoke to Chuck who said that he got the PC WIFI up and running and cleaned up a lot of junk – it’s running much faster.  He determined that Kaspersky hadn’t really updated since 2012 – hence the junk – he was just waiting for the defrag to finish – it ‘s been running for almost 2 ½ hours – eventually got out of there around 1pm – 

BOTTOM LINE I’d recommend the “Easy IT Guys” anytime – they know customer service and really treated me very well.    

First time I’ve used the AC this year.

SATURDAY – June 28, 2014    
WEATHER:  Summer must finally be here; rained in the evening.
FAMILY PICNIC - REUNION    Durand, WI

SUNDAY – June 29, 2014 
WEATHER:   warm 80’s

Mass at St. Mary’s in Durand , drove to
47 MISSISSIPPI NATIONAL RIVER and RECRATION AREA – (Visitor Center located in the lobby of the Minnesota Science Museum at 120 W. Kellogg Blvd., MN 55102-1202). Described as a “flowing pageant of life”

Missippi National River & Recreation Area VC
The Mighty Mississippi  - there was even a Broadway Musical written about it - music

written by Roger Miller“Big River”  -  numerous books – most notably Mark Twain.  Congress established the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area in 1988 to recognize the river’s historic and ongoing roll in molding the national character.

I thought this place a ‘blow-off’ and as a Visitor Center it may be but the background of the Minneapolis area and the partnership between the state, local and federal agencies is the real story. Only 35 of the 54,000 acres within the Park are owned by the Federal government. There are 20 parks, museums or historic sites along this 72 mile stretch of river.

Missippi National River & Recreation Area  -  map
Pillsbury, Betty Crocker, Gold Medal – the Mississippi has and continues to be a transportation hub for commerce.  Becoming a river pilot is a trade learned – there’s no school for it – you learn it by doing - the river is constantly changing.

Of course, here was another opportunity for a boat ride – but like the St.Croix – I passed.   It may have been worth it.  The Mississippi River National River and Recreation Area represents the many rich natural , cultural, and economic themes of the Mississippi River – know to the Ojibwe as the Mee-see-see-bee, the Father of Waters.

I was back in Durand by 4:15pm.

G O L F – Valley View GC Durand – not a good day shot 56 typical, it doesn’t matter “I love to play golf.  I have a set of Ping G-10 irons, a set of Taylor Made woods, an Acushnet brass headed putter  from the 60’s  and I’m not very good . . . .  “

MONDAY – June 30, 2014 
WEATHER:  70’s – 80’s
TRAVEL:  Durand, WI to Burlington, WI    Dropped trailer off at Burlington RV.  A small leak was noticed Saturday night – it was pouring  - hopefully they can fix it by July 4th.  I hit the road again on July 5th.

TUESDAY  - July 1 -  dentist and haircut appointmnet
WEDNESDAY – July 2 got the oil changed on the truck- washed truck
THURSDAY – July 3  G O L F at MORNING STAR with my brother, and 2 guys from WE.  The day was perfect.  Picked up my trailer – all they did was reset the seal on the slideout.  Refilled the propane tanks.
FRIDAY – July 4 - Washed the  trailer. Ready for the road. Went to Becky’s house in the afternoon – Visited with Tom, TJ & Becky;s families.  Not feeling very good 

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