Dave Gapinski's Travels 2014: 9 Aug 1-27, 2014 Van Buren, Vanderbilt, FDR, ER, Perrot SP, Grand Portage, Isle Royale, Voyageurs, Minneapolis Twins, Fort Snelling, NGAUS

ON AUG 12, 2014 a small setback occurred. This blog with inputs from July 5 – Aug 12, 2014 was erased. It was my error – I think – at any rate it was gone. However, I did have a backup in WORD that I’ve posted below without pictures. The backup through Aug 11 is about 99% of what was posted – some edits online are not reflected in the WORD document. Pictures were added back starting August 8.

The incident was reminiscent of the time back in 1989 when I lost the entire AT Training Circular for the 1-121 FA on a state computer. There I started over – most was on a hand written scribble. Also reminiscent of an entire term paper for an Internantional Law course in the mid 90’s – irretrievable – that I think was a near tragedy.

The blog accepts pictures that are uploaded directly to the blog from an external source, such as my pc. They cannot be transferred from WORD – tried that back in May – NO- GO. The process of importing, posting and arranging the photos is very time consuming. I have the photos on my pc but no attempt will be made to recreate the photos as they may remain in your memory. I hope you enjoyed them the first time.

as Dean Martin said “memories are made of this” or Jon Bon Jovi “you want to make a memory” . . . . . .in Canada on August 12, 2014 the pictures went down Memory Road . . . . .

FRIDAY – August 1, 2014

WEATHER: got up to 64 – probably will get to high 70’s again today - hazy

TRAVEL: staying around here today – update this blog – read – do laundry - maybe golf

SATURDAY – August 2, 2014

WEATHER: muggy 60’s drizzle by 9 am most of the way through MA, then 80 mostly sunny in NY

TRAVEL: about 195 miles and 4 hours from Hanscom AFB to Saugerties/Woodstock KOA. Slow in MA on the I. Tolls in MA and NY. This is the Catskills – home of the Dutch and Rip Van Winkle and the summer home of “Baby” and Johnny Castle . . . . . . and yes this is the Woodstock of the 1969 Music Festival. . . . a lot happened in 1969.

Martin Van Buren NHS is about 25 miles but almost a 45 minute drive away. St. James Church in Chatham, NY is at least 10 miles and 20+ minutes from Van Buren’s house – just like his Irish servants – it was a trip to church. Easier for me to make 5:30 Mass by truck, than for them by wagon/carriage.

Another KOA with a Presidential Award – at check in I told them I might be here 4 days instead of 5 – gave me a $8 credit???? – woman who checked me in was helped guide me in to the site – it was very tight but with her as guide – made it in on the first try (good thing I didn’t know it was so tight) – also offered water hose and electric code if I didn’t have 50 feet (which I do) still better than Harpers Ferry KOA (they are really low on the list) but not even close to Woodstock, VT – the WIFI works here (I think there is an antenna on the tree just outside my trailer) – the site is mostly level – very dusty driving in off the road – sites and roads are gravel - but again it is a weekend – its summer - busy - otherwise not impressed . . . the restrooms – built for children – very clean – but small - mirrors are chest height – no sinks for shaving - after I visited Martin Van Buren’s home I figured I could see what I need in the two more days not three, therefore leave on Tuesday – in fact telling them that the site will be open – well no refunds per the manager – something mumbling about all the favors they did for me – a different response may have resulted in a different review from – he could use a lesson in service ---- obviously a bottom line guy

64 MARTIN VAN BUREN – KINDERHOOK, NY

Martin Van Buren

Better than I anticipated. The Visitor Center is nothing to get excited about. It’s literally only 1 room big – not much in the book store – the 12 minute film is shown on a TV hooked up to a CD player – your choice of the 3 three person benches – but a good introduction.

Martin Van Buren
Lindenwald

The ranger who gave the 4pm tour was very knowledgeable – he really knew his stuff and literally gave a 40 minute lecture while we went through the house. Very professional – he liked his job. Lindenwald (as he named it Linden-another name for the basswood trees on the property and wald-wood)was purchased by Van Buren in 1839 for $14,000. Pictures permitted inside – thought I didn’t take any – 36 rooms (this guy had money) – Lindenwald is a home not a museum like many others I’ve visited (great job by the Park Service) – sparsely furnished but mostly original – the rooms are huge – the ceilings are 12 feet high – an addition at the rear changed the entry added rooms to the rear and also added the tower.

Martin Van Buren
Lindenwald - Dining Room

Martin Van Buren ((1782-1862) was born in Kinderhook, NY. His parents were tavern keepers. Van Buren spoke Dutch as a first language – studied law – had a knack for politics – close friends of Thomas Jefferson and Andrew Jackson; NY State Senator ; US Senator; Secretary of State and Vice President for Andrew Jackson; and eventually became the 8^th President of the US (1837-1841). The first US President born under the flag of the United States.

A SHORT POLITICAL HISTORY

1801 Delegate to the Republican Party caucus in Troy, NY supports Jeffersonian principles for the rest of his life (after leaving the presidency he listed his occupation as farmer).

1812-1820 State Senator; State Attorney General; leader of the Jeffersonian Republicans in New

York. Establishes the first statewide political machine in the nation.

1821-1828 US Senator; helps form the Democratic Party; manages Andrew Jackson’s 1828 presidential campaign.

1829 Governor of New York; in office for 71 days until appointed Secretary of State (1829-31); President Andrew Jackson’s chief advisor.

1833-1837 US Vice President under Andrew Jackson.

1837-1841 President of the United States; continues Jackson’s policies; opposes extension of slavery and annexation of Texas; faces worst economic depression in US history (like Herbert Hoover blamed for the depression when overextended credit by banks caused the depression)

1844 Loses Democratic presidential nomination to James K. Polk (Polk was a compromise candidate for the southern states and slavery)

1848 Presidential candidate of the Free Soil Party; a group opposing extension of slavery. Van Buren gets about 10% of the vote and defeat ends his political career. He continues to reside in Lindenwald.

St. James Church
Chatham, NY

Mass St. James Church, Chatham, NY – the priest was Father Andre form St. James sister parish St. Cecelia in Haiti. A bit difficult to understand, because of the accent – which he acknowledged – but something said you wanted to listen to this guy. Readings (Come to the water) and the gospel 5 loaves and 2 fish. The homily was tied into the gospel woven through a description of his financial statement in Haiti – just an interesting approach.

SUNDAY – August 3, 2014

WEATHER: started cloudy in the 60’s

TRAVEL: Woodstock is 7 miles down the road; Hyde Park is another 15.

I’m in the Hudson River Valley. There are over 100 National Heritage Sites – places of interest - in the Valley. Mansions of the Livingston’s, Vanderbilt’s, Roosevelt’s, and Rockefeller’s offer tours. West Point in included because of its Revolutionary War fortifications and of course there are the majestic panoramas of the Hudson, Catskills, Shawangunks and Palisades. Included in the Heritage Sites are the designated National Historic Sites (NHS) which I plan to visit.

65 VANDERBILT MANSION NHS – HYDE PARK, NY

Vanderbilt Mansion - entrance

The Vanderbilt’s were considered “new money.” This was the 3^rd generation of Vanderbilt’s and the mansion is the only one in the National Park system representing American’s “Gilded Age” – from the Civil War to WWI.

THE VANDERBILTS of the GILDED AGE

Frederick William Vanderbilt was the grandson of Cornelius “Commodore” Vanderbilt, who on a $100 loan from his grandmother started a ferry service between Staten Island and Manhattan. The Commodore built a shipping empire and then moved into railroads. When the Commodore died in 1877 he left his $100 million to his only heir, William Henry. William Henry died in 1885 but ws now worth $200 million. William Henry had Frederick William one of eight children, the first Vanderbilt to go to college, he married for love and never had any children, yet he spent his inheritance (received at age 29) like his siblings – on opulence but he grew his $10 million inheritance into $70 million . The eight Vanderbilt’s built at least 26 mansions throughout the country. As you read on – remember this home was built for 2 people who could visit in spring and fall. Winter was spent in New York (opera season) and summers in New England ( Newport).

Vanderbilt Mansion
Second Floor Atrium

Vanderbilt Mansion
Side view

The ranger who provided the house tour – was again – very knowledgeable and loved his job – he knew his stuff. This mansion was built in the style of nouveau rich – like the nobility of Europe to indicate that they had made it to “high society.” However, this new money – rarely ever mixed company with the “old money” such as the Roosevelt’s or the Astor’s. (the Roosevelt’s made their money in banking; the Astor’s in the fur trade). The Vanderbilt’s continually tried to say that they had made it (bought their way) into “high society.”

Vanderbilt Mansion
Den

Vanderbilt Mansion
Ladies Tea Room

The trees on this property are huge. One honey locust is 180 years old. The grounds are

claimed to be the oldest continuously manicured grounds in the United States – due to owners previous to the Vanderbilt’s. Although, the place looked like a museum – it was not dark (except of the den and office – dark wood) – it was light – the baths had flush toilets – there was running water and electric lights.

The Vanderbilt’s employed a staff of 60 to include grounds and house staff. It was built in 1895 – 300 craftsmen 2 years. They literally camped on the front lawn until the house was finished at a cost of $2.25 million – for two people. There were never more than 18 guests invited to the house. There was a servant staff of at least 20.

William Frederick’s wife died in 1926. He died in 1938. Of the 40 named in his will over 35 were employees at the house. He left many of them $1000 – one he left a house on the grounds and $1/4 million – the bulk of his fortune and this house and grounds he left to Margaret Van Alen – a niece of his wife. In 1940, Margaret Van Alen, a friend of FDR donated the property to the federal government “a memorial to Uncle Fred and a national monument.”

66 HOME OF FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT NHS – HYDE PARK, NY

Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site

FDR was born into a rich and aristocratic family; he was educated by private tutors in a patrician environment of a Hudson Valley estate. FDR’s Great Grandfather moved to the Hyde Park area in 1818. They were wealthy, but not on the scale of the neighboring Vanderbilt’s. Springwood was modest compared to many estates that lined the Hudson River above New York City.

Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site - FDR's Springwood

FDR - Four Freedoms

Here again a ranger gave the tour who was very knowledgeable and loved his job. Franklin, when he was born in this house he was 10lb – the Dr. cautioned his mother not to have any more children fearing an even more difficult childbirth. Franklin is an only child. His mother’s name was Sara Delano and this literally was her house - - -

Like other families of their class, the Roosevelt’s spent their summer’s where it was cooler, for them it was the Canadian island of Campobello island, winter’s in New York City and spring/fall in the Hudson Valley at this home called Springwood. Franklin’s father James died in 1900. Franklin married Eleanor in 1905, the young couple moved in with Sara.

There is so much to write about FDR that I think I’ll let it pass. Suffice to say that the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Presidential Library tells the story. Springwood – hit me as dark – dark wood – old money – but livable.

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM

This is America’s first Presidential Library and Museum and the only one used by a sitting

FDR Library and Museun

president. Designed by FDR, in a Dutch Colonial style in opened in 1941,on the grounds of the Roosevelt estate in Hyde Park, NY. This is the 2^nd of 13 Presidential Libraries that I intend to visit; Hoover was my first.

By donating his papers to the Library, FDR established the precedent for public ownership of presidential papers. This library became the model for the nation’s presidential library system, now part of the National Archives.

Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site

I spent about 2 ½ hours here bypassing much of the depression and WWII exhibits – you could easily spend 4-6 hours here alone.

Roosevelt had an extensive personal collection of stamps, ship models and coins. Some of these are displayed on the lower level but state of the art exhibits trace his history and career.

There are several short films in the library and at least two areas where you can listen to FDR’s “fireside chat” radio messages centered and depression topics and WWII. There is an exhibit that deals with polio and how FDR dealt with his physical disability. He went to great lengths to always give the appearance that he could walk – he was stricken with polio at age 39 in 1921 while at Campobello.

Take Aways - - - - -

· government grew under FDR – big time take a look at the list

· the people trusted him – an aristocrat – but people always thought he was with them

· a politician who used the fireside chats to inspire people and build trust – part of the people – elected to 4 terms

· WWII and it’s subsequent massive government spending brought the US out of the great depression

· Eleanor was an activist – and that’s a good thing - part of the exhibit is devoted to her

Eleanor & Franklin were remarkable people. A large number of books in the bookstore but not really sure what to purchase if any – so I have enough to read but FDR truly was a remarkable leader for America – in the right place at the right time – looking back I think, as a country, we were very lucky.

MONDAY – August 3, 2014

WEATHER: started cloudy in the 60’s, drizzle for a few minutes, supposed to get up to 80 again today

TRAVEL: Woodstock – 7 miles away – back to Hyde Park.

TODAY IS THE ANNIVERSARY OF BRITAIN JOINING WORLD WAR I. 18 million people died during the war, 750,000 were British.

Update on Saugerties/Woodstock KOA – the bath facility that did not impress me was closed – probably in an effort to save on cleaning costs – because there are not many people here during the week. A sign on the door said to go to the building near the pool – didn’t know that there were facilities there – well at least, there were sinks – oh this didn’t bring them up a notch – only fueled my disappointment on why they wouldn’t refund me if I leave a day early – there is hardly anyone here.

67 ELANORE ROOSEVELT NHS – HYDE PARK, NY

Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site
Val-Kill

Born in 1884 to Elliot and Anna Hall Roosevelt, wealthy New Yorkers – she went abroad at age 15 to study in England and developed a concern for the oppressed, it became her trademark. FDR was a distant cousin ( 5^th cousin) – they began seeing each – became engaged and were married in 1905.

FDR was unfaithful. Eleanor knew this but they remained married – in fact FDRs mother said if he divorced Eleanor – he was out of the will – he would have no inheritance – no money and it would end his political career. Sara Delano Roosevelt must have been quite a force in FDRs life – no wonder Eleanor kept her distance and did not interfere in the affairs of Springwood – it was Sara’s home – Franklin and Eleanor shared it with Sara until her death. Franklin and Eleanor did have true love for each other but the marriage developed into one of political partnership.

Eleanor was an old hand at politics by the time FDR was elected president. She knew her responsibilities focused on social activities but she wanted to be more useful.

Eleanor traveled the US, FDR expected her to gather first-hand knowledge of things and places where he could not go. She observed poverty stricken rural areas, city slums, prisons, and coal mines. During WWII she visited wounded overseas. “Her contribution to the Roosevelt era is immeasurable. She believed that ‘sometimes I acted as a spur, even though the spurring was not always wanted.’” As First Lady she was the first to do more than just be a social hostess of the White House. She was always on the move.

ER's Val Kill front entrance but it looks like a back door

ER's Val Kill - Dining Room

Val Kill is paneled in dark wood – yet still very simple. The sitting room is where cocktails would be served before dinner. The furniture is simple – no rewards for home decorating but the furniture was there to match the size of her guests – it was comfortable.

The dining room as pictured here was set for 8, but table leaves could accommodate up to 20 and of course a card table with folding chairs would be set up to accommodate the children. The tableware was not expensive china – an everyday pattern of Franciscan Ware – apple pattern; note the water glasses (cafeteria/restaurant style of the 50’s); the candelabra – a gift of her family inheritance - can’t remember exactly who, but he signed the Declaration of Independence.

Eleanor (referred to as ER in contrast to FDR) was quite a woman. I think I may remember her on TV and in the news during the 50’s. She was the most powerful woman in the US and no slouch at internal world politics as she entertained Kruschev, Nehru, Walter Ruether, the royalty of England . . . and others I cannot remember. She was a driving force in the Democratic party and John F. Kennedy came to ask her support of his nomination for the presidency. They met and had lunch at the table in the alcove of this living room. She agreed to support him if he took a stronger stand on civil rights..

ER's Val Kill - Living Room

Eleanor Roosevelt

Val-Kill (valley/near-stream) was on the Roosevelt Hyde Park estate but she made it her home. The only home she ever owned. FDR had bought the property and deeded it to Eleanor in the 1920’s.

Eleanor was quite a woman. ER was a formidable politician – a champion of human rights – 1^st US ambassador to the UN – the 1^st woman delegate to the UN – she loved the people – and even though she was privileged/wealthy always treated them with respect.

Eleanor died in 1962. She is buried next to Franklin in the Springwood garden.

TOP COTTAGE (never got there . . . )

Designed by architect Henry Toombs with FDR in the mid 1920’s – construction began finally in 1938 at a cost of $16,599 – FDR wanted a retreat. He expected this to be his retirement place for sorting papers, writing memoirs, local history and naval history – but his retirement never came. But most of all he used this as a place “to escape the mob.” I drove back from Eleanor’s Val Kill and Stone Cottage to FDR Home and the 1:10 pm tour was full – Iwasn’t waiting around until 3:10 pm- it was noon – not that important not a separate NHS and they would have charged me another $10. Bye!.

WOODSTOCK, NY

Max Yasgur quote: “I made a deal with (Woodstock Producer) Mike Lang before the festival started. If anything went wrong I was going to give him a crew cut. If everything was O.K., I was going to let my hair grow long. I guess he won the bet, but I’m so bald I’ll never be able to pay it off.” Life Magazine, Special Edition, Woodstock 1969 Max was a 49 year old dairy farmer.

TUESDAY – August 5, 2014

WEATHER: started cloudy in the 60’s

TRAVEL: Saugerties/Woodstock KOA to Sandusky KOA. I called Sandusky on Monday to change my reservation from Thursday to Tuesday – no problem. It will be a long drive but I should be home sometime Wednesday – plan to wash the truck and trailer – two nights at home and then leave Friday for Perrot State Park north of Onalaska for a family wedding on Saturday August 9^th.

Saugerties /Woodstock KOA

Sandusky KOA

Last update on Saugurties/Woodstock KOA. OK it's very dark here at night - i.e. few lights just enough - not to lose your way - but this morning took the cake. Obviously all about the owner/manager bottom line, not the customer. The shower/bathhouse is on a timer with a very short on cycle. I had to make deliberate moves in the shower house 3x to activate the motion sensor and ensure that the lights stayed on. I believe in electric conservation, but this owner/manager should extend the time the lights stay on. It's not enough time to take even half a shower . . . . and by the way the dumpsters have been full since the weekend - I mean overflowing . . . . and even the WIFI slowed down yesterday. This place dropped another point. All I can say is good location (no trains or highways) and good riddance.

Sandusky KOA . Pull through site – asphalt but rutted through use – clean – on check in the 2 girls did not explain or offer guidance – there is WIFI but they didn’t give me the PW and I’m not here long enough to care. Sandusky is about 30 miles off the I system. Bye.

WEDNESDAY – August 6, 2014

WEATHER: sunny

TRAVEL: Sandusky to Burlington

THURSDAY – August 7, 2014

WEATHER: sunny

TRAVEL: wash trailer, oil change on truck, wash truck, make reservations for remainder of 2014

FRIDAY – August 8, 2014

WEATHER: sunny

TRAVEL: Burlington to Perrot State Park - 250 miles close to Onalaska & Trempealeau

Beedles
Onalaska, WI

Perrot State Park
Wisconsin

PERROT STATE PARK – seems like a nice place – lots of trails to walk – however – I’m here for a weeding – not to visit the park. Friday fish fry suggestions are Ed Sullivan’s (just outside the entrance to the park); I went to Beedles – out the back door of the campground – about a 10-15 minute drive - 3 beers cost $11.25 the fish fry was $10 – tasty – nothing like a Wisconsin fish fry – Ohio can keep it’s Lake Erie perch and well, Maine lobster fresh 2# for $14 is hard to beat . . . . . but messy – still need instructions on how to crack the beast – Mainers say the lobster is less expensive in Boston – well see . . . .

PERROT ---- like I’ve said earlier – there is so much to see in Wisconsin you don’t have to travel the US – there is so much close to home

Perrot State Park - Wisconsin

SATURDAY – August 9, 2014

WEATHER: perfect

TRAVEL: 3pm wedding at St. Patrick’s church in Onalaska – met Amy, Kris, Sarah and Casen. Reception, Dinner and Dance was at a local country club just down the road from the motel where many were staying – a little father drive for me – I left around 9:15 – Sarah set up a skype with Paul on her iPad – even Grandma got to talk to him –

SUNDAY – August 10, 2014

WEATHER: started sunny – 70’s clouded up – rain by 3 o’clock

TRAVEL: about 255 miles from Perrot State Park to Cloquet/Duluth KOA. A small KOA but clean – gravel roads & sites – just about everybody is within eyesight. Checked on on Sunday – probably the owner’s teenage son – friendly – nothing special – but a nice facility. WIFI works – strong signal. Facilities well kept and clean.

St. Batholomew's

MASS 8 o’clock at St. Bartholomew’s in Trempealeau. Another 3 church’s sharing 1 priest. This was a double baptism – twin girls – Eva & Emma – nice combination – just a little smaller than St. Joseph’s in Lyons – maybe about the same – anyway the church was almost full. Older priest – liked to tell jokes - - - - - - can’t remember one of them but I do remember the homily – I guess that’s what counts

Clouquet/Duluth KOA is right on the limits of Calton, MN - Cloquet, about 10 minutes east, is a good sized town . . . . . somewhere between the two is Black Bear Casino – I didn’t stop to visit. I did make it to Third Base – a bar in Carlton, with entertainment on Sunday’s from 4-8 – a two piece band – not bad – called Double Play – I wonder if they change their name to match the bar their playing in?

MONDAY – August 11, 2014

WEATHER: rained all night – let up around 5 am – stopped by 6am – should clear up early morning -

TRAVEL: About 250 miles – might change my schedule again – come into Minneapolis on Sunday – see the Twins game – then Durand then home – then Chicago. According to the schedule, there are trains from Sturtevant at 3:23 and 6:08 on Thursday. I think my appointment with Basil is 1:30 – if so then maybe 3:23 else 6:08.

Took 5 hours to get here. A very nice drive on Highway 61 along Lake Superior. It was a 15 minute wait to get across the Canadian border. Again, Maine and the east coast have nothing on what we have here in the Midwest. The area from Grand Portage and east of Thunder Bay, Ontario is just as good as Maine – maybe better because there is land between the huge rocks (mountains) that the glaciers left – in Maine it’s all rock . . . . . very good views even though it was cloudy.

PERSEID METEOR SHOWER – even though a full moon – I’ll try just before dawn on the 12^th or 13^th it was raining this morning. Still cloudy in Kakabeka Falls, Ontario at 5:45 pm we’ll see what it’s like in the early am.

The Perseid meteor shower, one of the brighter meteor showers of the year, occur every August, peaking around August 9-13. Consisting of tiny space debris from the comet Swift-Tuttle, the Perseids are named after the constellation, Perseus. This is because, their radiant or the direction of which the shower seems to come from lies in the same direction as Perseus. The constellation lies in the north-eastern part of the sky. Cassiopeia should be above to the right of Perseus.

Happy Land Campground

HAPPY LAND CAMPGROUND Kakabeka Falls, Ontario – nice – WIFI works – no phone service here in Canada. Not as tight as most KOAs – unique – yes there is a pool and a small field for kids soccer, there is a place to play baseball, volleyball, horseshoes – restrooms are separate from the showers – all is neat and clean – plenty of pines – but it doesn’t smell like pine.

TUESDAY – August 12, 2014

WEATHER: sunny, clear, perfect got up to the 70’s – it was a one dog night 53 (the radio said currently 9 with a high of 21 – What’s That?) when I got out of bed - I was up at 2 pm and should have went out to view the sky because by 5:30 the sun was up – hope it’s clear again tonight. Haven’t seen a “starry, starry night” yet.

TRAVEL: there is no phone service here so ONSTAR can’t download instructions – but I can talk to them – same was true at Baxter Park in Maine. Construction on Hwy 61 in Canada also . . . . . takes about 1.5 hrs to get to Grand Portage because of the construction.

68 GRAND PORTAGE NM – GRAND PORTAGE, MN

Grand Portage National Monument

Grand Portage

The Ojibwe called Grand Portage "Kitchi Onigaming" (Great Carrying Place) which connects Lake Superior to the navigable parts of the Pigeon River along a 8.5 mile footpath.

This was an interesting visit. The NPS and the Grand Portage Ojibwe administer this park as a joint venture. I didn’t see a ranger in uniform but there are plenty of “volunteers” or paid rangers serving as living interpreters in the buildings and grounds. Refreshing..

The Heritage Center was featured cultural exhibits and several films about the Grand Portage; it’s history and that of the Ojibwe. I spent almost 2.0 hours here – with the films it went fast.

HISTORY

From 1784 to 1803 the North West Fur Company partners ran the most profitable fur trade on the Great Lakes. Their competitor was the Hudson Bay Company. The North West Fur Company’s inland headquarters was located at Grand Portage, the largest fur trade depot in the heart of the continent.

Grand Portage - The Great Hall inside the stockade

This was also the site of “Rendezvous,” an annual gathering where hundreds of voyageurs spent the better part of July camped outside the palisade (fort). On the final night of Rendezvous the partners and their guests feasted and danced in the Great Hall, while the voyageurs and Indians gathered outside for their own celebration.

Making canoe ribs

Grand Portage

The Rendezvous was where voyageurs from Montreal arrived with trade goods that were traded for furs brought by voyageurs from the west . . . . and of course the “partners” somehow made a huge profit in all of this trade.

Grand Portage - Great Hall where the "partners" met and partied

The Grand Portage was the 8 ½ mile trek from Lake Superior to the Fort Charlotte stockade on the Pigeon River. The portage was necessary because of the several waterfalls and rapids along the Pigeon River . The difference in height is 625 feet – it was impossible to go up the Pigeon River by canoe. The 25 foot canoes could carry tons of cargo. The voyageurs carried 90 lb packs of furs over the trail down to Lake Superior. Likewise the trade goods were carried up from Lake Superior to the other end of the trail. You can hike that trail today. It’s is a trek of a full day or you can rustic camp at the site of old Fort Charlotte.

In the Great Hall -
the Mad Hatter

In 1803 the Grand Portage post was abandoned due to settlement of the Pigeon River as the US/Canada border. Grand Portage is south of the Pigeon River. The Northwest Fur Company moved its headquarters to Thunder Bay to avoid tariffs. By 1821 the portage had fallen into disuse. By the mid 19ths century fashions changed (beaver felt hats) and the voyageurs found their profession becoming obsolete.

There’s just one problem with having a large extended family – you can run into them almost anywhere – so at Grand Portage I ran into Nic and his family . . . . imagine that . . . what are the odds . . . . . so I stayed away from the Grand Portage Casino

Gunflint Hills Golf Course

GUN FLINT GOLF COURSE – Grand Marais, MN I had to drive another 30 miles south of Grand Portage to Grand Marais to find this place. Not what I thought it would be but then what do you want for $28 – this is golf not fishing. Not an easy course, undulating – I don’t think there was a flat space on any of the fairways – or most any other place. If you’re in the rough - like in the stuff – it’s lost. I shot 50 with 13 putts (I was hot on putting) and 3 lost balls.

HARLEY DAVIDSON THUNDER BAY, ONTARIO. Just had to stop by this place – just because – kind of on the way back – on the Trans Canada Highway just east of Canadian Highway 61 (so about 8 miles away from where I’m staying).

AFTERTHOUGHT: I’ve crossed the border now 3 times in less than 24 hours – I’m so confused I’m not sure where I live sometimes - - - - I wonder those border agents maintain a consistent attitude of unfriendliness during a shift – even cops smile . . . .

WEDNESDAY – August 13, 2014

WEATHER: cool in the morning 54 in the trailer – a one dog night. Warmed up to the 70’s – a clear and sunny day.

TRAVEL: About 50 miles and 1/1/2 hours to Grand Portage crossing the border and going through the Canadian Highway 61 culvert construction. .

GRAND PORTAGE CASINO & LODGE: The reviews on line can scare you away – but I decided to stop – early – I had a half hour to kill before I was due at the boat dock. The Casino is – all slots – I couldn’t find a gaming table anywhere – well that keeps the overhead down. Of course at 0740 there were more employees than the 2 people playing penny slots – lots and lots of penny slots – I looked but couldn’t find a quarter machine, let alone one that took dollars – pennies and nickels – not sure I even saw dimes. The lodge itself used to be a Radisson. I’m not sure what the maintenance or the rooms look like – but what I saw was clean and not smoky. There is also a no frills (just electric) RV park next door with lake views – it would be fine I think. Didn’t spend a penny.

69 ISLE ROYALE NP – HOUGHTON, MI

The Park HQ is in Houghton. MI. I did stop by on a Saturday when I was in Houghton, MN and of course it was closed. You can reach the park by boat from Houghton, MI or Grand Portage, MN. Well, it’s a $68 round trip boat ride from Grand Portage, MN to Windigo, MI Visitor Center on Isle Royale + $4 per person per day Visitor Fee to NPS and $4 parking fee to leave you car near the concessionaire boat dock. I considered a stay on the island at Rock Harbor Visitor Center but the rates were $200+ per night – and of course it’s another 2 hours on the boat to southeast side of the island. There are no roads on the island, but there are 165 miles of foot trails and 244 rustic camp sites.

The boat at Grand Portage - You've got to look at Voyageurs

The boat ride out was a bit rough. 3-5 foot waves – sometimes just a bit larger. A few

of the hardy ones, the hikers (not day trippers) braved the conditions and became almost thoroughly soaked. They stood on the outside of the cabin, standing in the lee of the boat for some shelter – it had to be cold. I had a t-shirt on, with a long sleeve t over that, my flannel shirt over that and my golf rain jacket/windbreaker over that – I was comfortable and didn’t get wet – well -the spray did get me once in a while. One woman (older/larger)lost her balance as the boat rolled – she hit the deck – right in front of me (I was on a bench in the rear of the boat – in front of the cabin) took her 2 minutes to recover – she was OK. The trip back was better – 1-2 foot waves – almost no roll or spray blown by the wind – I didn’t get a seat – stood by the rail the whole trip – same clothing on as going - got more than a little sun on my face.

Left the dock at 0830 and got to the dock a little after 10. Stopped at a supposedly 500 year old “spirit tree” place along the mainland shore (didn’t take a picture). Also stopped above a 1922 steamboat ship wreck in Washington Harbor - the bow was supposedly 6 feet below us – but no one could see it. You can dive the wreck but must register with NPS first. Like Baxter State Park, they want to know who is on the island and where they will be going/doing.

Isle Royale
Visitor Center

Arrived at Windigo Visitor Center and were met by rangers. Day trippers, like me, met with one ranger, the hikers met with another. Windago is fairly civilized – not wilderness – there must be a generator somewhere - a sturdy dock, a ranger station, a large shelter, a store, flush toilets and showers. The ranger offered a 1 hour guided NATURE walk – just over a mile; a WILDLIFE talk on the moose/wolves and unique garter snakes on the island; and a HISTORICAL review of the “Rock of Ages” lighthouse and its associated shipwrecks. I attended all 3 events and brought my own lunch. It was a very pleasant 4 hours. We headed back just before 2 pm.

Isle Royale - Washington Harbor

There are over 1500 moose on the island. The herd has been as large as 4000. There are 8 timber wolves who keep the moose population in tow – but the 8 which are tracked by NPS are all interrelated – that causes genetic problems – like little reproduction. In the 1920’s the moose most likely swam or crossed an ice bridge from the mainland to the island. There are no deer – deer can’t swim that far – they don’t walk on ice very well eithr. Therefore, no deer ticks. No ticks at all that want to feed on humans but there are moose ticks – they are a bit larger than the ticks we may be used to – and of course I did find some mosquitoes.

This whole area has a geologic history. It would be a great place for a geology student to spend a summer. Wild solitude – at another time, this would be the place to visit for a few days or a week

Grand Portage NM Stockade from Mount Rose

GRAND PORTAGE NM – MOUNT ROSE TRAIL It was a good day –so I when I got back I climbed the Mount Rose Trail. About a 1.5 mile up 300 feet and then down. The northern part of the trail was originally a ½ mile loop. It’s roughly paved with asphalt – some steps. The southern part starts at the Heritage Center parking lot. I started there. Lots of steps, a steep climb – no switchbacks. Brand new just opened in 2014.

Grand Portage
Mount Rose

The cores of Mt. Rose (where the picture was taken #12) and Mt. Josephine in the distance were formed about 1.1billion years ago from magma intrusions. Magma rose in the vertical fractures in older rock layers to form dikes. The magma cooled beneath the surface forming diabase, a fine grained rock more resistant to erosion that the layers it intruded. Diabase is the cross over stage between gibbous rock found deep in the core and basalt lava. Dikes in the older Grand Portage set or ‘swarm’ are narrow and run east-west. Several are visible along the base of Mt. Rose. The cores of Mt. Rose and Mt. Josephine are from a younger Pigeon River swarm that are much larger and run northeast-southwest. Diabase forms the steep-sided ridges characteristic in this area. This is a beautiful area. My traveling back and forth from Canada to Grand Portage reinforce the views.

This is an argillite outcropping. About 1.9 billion years ago, layers of gravel, sand, silt and clay were deposited to a depth of 3,200 feet by alternately calm and turbid waters on an inland sea. Their own weight squeezed the water out of the deposits, hardening the layers into greywacke, or ‘dirty sandstone’ and shale. About 1 billion years ago, a rift developed in the Lake Superior region pulling apart the continental crust and allowing hot magma to well up from the earth’s mantle. Heat and pressure recrystallized greywacke into quartzite (a metamorphic rock) and argillite (hardened clay mud)without destroying the sedimentary feature. This outcrop was exposed over the last several million years through water erosion and the repeated glacial advances. If you pick a piece of this up and whack it against another rock it will break like a cracker.

GRAND PORTAGE STATE PARK, MN – HIGH FALLS TRAIL.

Grand Portage - High Falls Trail

This park runs along the Pigeon River which is the international boundary between the US and Canada. The 8 ½ mile Grand Portage was a much shorter and easier (well if you walk it I think you’ll find it wasn’t that easy) than trying to get up the Pigeon River. High Falls is the first of many waterfalls and rapids along the route. The walk on the US side is fairly easy. It’s on high ground and paved, with some wooden walkways and steps leading to overlooks – but an easy walk compared to some of the falls at Pictured Rocks. Worth the stop.

THURSDAY – August 14, 2014

WEATHER: cold last night, still a one dog night – could have been two - the forecast was for a low of 5. Still not sure what that means, but it was 50 in the trailer at 0530. Now 0530 is not really 0530 here its 0630 – like the UP of Michigan, Ontario is on Eastern Time. Clear and sunny.

TRAVEL: I decided to stay around and read – update the blog - but still had problems – hours again wasted - rather than visit: THUNDER BAY, Ontario and FORT WILLIAM HISTORICAL PARK, KAKABEKA FALLS, and the AMETHYST MINES. Didn’t spend any money, but did request a reservation for an East St. Paul RV Park on Sunday and bought a Twins ticket for the Sunday 8/17 game. I’ll be in Durand Monday early afternoon. In Burlington on Wednesday

Finished reading “Six Armies in Tennessee”. Overall a good book, but this author definitely takes a fresh look – it’s like reading writings of the “lost cause” – according to this author none of the generals, north or south who fought here, were any good, except Grant & Sherman. He spends time defending Rosecrans and Bragg because their subordinate generals didn’t listen to them i.e. wouldn’t follow orders. Well, then he finally, kind of says even they blew it. According to the author only Grant & Sherman & later a mention of Sheridan were any good. In my opinion - Grant – OK - - - - but Sherman, well he was good friend of Grant’s - did nothing at Perryville; was surprised at Shiloh; couldn’t get the job done north of Vicksburg; same story for the attack on Missionary Ridge - and in the beginning of the war many thought he was crazy – he was put away – well relieved for awhile – then he gets command of several armies – Grant was his friend, maybe he saw something in him like Ron Wolfe did when he first tried Brett Farve. Sheridan – well he didn’t do so good here either, but eventually became a protégé of Grant’s and had a brilliant time beating up on Jubal Early in the Shenandoah Valley in late 1864.

Started to read Jack Korouac’s “On the Road”. An easy read – short chapters – story keeps you want to read more – not sure what the big draw was? Maybe it was just the traveling On the Road after WWII. My dad told me that after he was discharged from the Navy, he almost bought a motorcycle and was going to ride back. Korouac must have been a vet, like most of the others in his story – it takes place in 1948. I should have spent time reading this book instead of trying to fix the blog.

FRIDAY – August 15, 2014

WEATHER: it was 50 in the trailer at 4:30 – 48 outside at 7 am when I hit the road. It was 86 by noon. Of course, Lake Superior isn’t right next door anymore . . . . .

Sherwood Forest Campgound
Gilbert, MN

TRAVEL: Happy Land RV Park, Kakabeka Falls, ON to Gilbert Sherwood Forrest Campground, Gilbert, MN. The trip took about 5 ½ hours – customs – road work – controlled one lane traffic routes and detours may have added 45 -50 minutes to the trip.

This also is a rewrite – the 5 paragraphs I wrote last night weren’t saved. So here we go again – if you’re reading this I hope you enjoy . . . . .

Sherwood Forrest Campground 301 Ore-Be-Gone Dr. My Garmin couldn’t locate this place – I tried ONSTAR 3 times and they couldn’t find it. I kind of knew where it was – found it easily. It is at the intersection of Ore-Be- Gone and Sherwood Forrest. I think I’m west of where we went fishing along the Canada border 25 years ago. At least I passed a sign for White Pine that headed north – I think that’s where we put in for the trip.

Sherwood Forrest is simple – no frills but clean and wide open. This weekend it’s full. There are a lot of very dirty trucks/jeeps and ATVs here due to a gathering of OTRVers. Also, there are a good number of scuba divers – Ore-Be-Gone Lake is just down the road about ¼ mile. It seems, both groups, come up here for annual gatherings. I don’t think they’re going to Voyageurs.

Voyageurs is 102 miles north – that’s a 2 hours drive up Hwy 53 and back down. Again considered a room in International Falls but I guess $40-50 worth of gas is less than a room. There is some civilization between here and International Falls – Virginia a town of about 8700 is 4 miles north –typical, it has a Menards, Big K – McDonald’s – etc and another smaller city called Orr – pop 3,000 about 25 miles north of Virginia – this is mining country – not much else in between except forest or lakes..

70 VOYAGEURS NP – INTERNATIONAL FALLS, MN

Voyageurs National Park

The Park HQ is located in International Falls. There are 3 Visitor Centers: Rainy Lake – Kabetogama – Ash River. Of course, the way to see this park is by water. Well, I don’t have a boat and I don’t intend to rent one. This is boats with motors country - not canoes . . . . . but there are a number of hiking trails.

I passed signs for the Visitor Centers on the way to International Falls. I was headed for the Park HQ . They assured me that all 3 Visitor Centers were open 0930-1700.

From the HQ I headed to Rainy Lake Visitor Center about 12 miles down the road. Each of the Visitor Centers is about 12-20 miles apart by water – they’re 25 -35 miles apart by road.

Voyageurs NP Map

Boat tour of Voyageur's NP

Voyageurs NP is 56 miles long east to west and about 30 miles north to south. Most of it can only be reached by water.

Along the road to Rainy Lake Visitor Center I passed a young deer – fearless – I slowed down – parked – took a photo – it just kept right on eating. I also saw a fox on the road near Grand Portage this morning.

The Rainy Lake Visitor Center was staffed by 2 volunteers and I saw 1 ranger. There is a ranger led boat tour – well ------- I decided the boat trip is the only real way to see some of the park – I don’t have a boat – so I’ll drive back up here tomorrow. Lots of pickups with empty boat trailers parked all over this place. Nice Visitor Center – saw a film – browsed a small gift shop and the exhibits. Very friendly and helpful staff.

Voyageurs is a water based park. There are over 500 islands and 655 miles of shoreline. The landscape is full of rocks and woods. Of course the historic fur trade route of the voyageurs came through the park. Congress authorized the park in 1975 as the 36^th National Park.

Here the exposed rock is part of the Canadian (Laurentian) Shield, a gigantic dome of volcanic bedrock that forms the core of North America. Eons of erosion wore down the volcanic mountain ranges. The ice ages brought glaciers – exposing the deep roots of the ancient mountains – granite, migmatite and biotite schist. The melting glaciers filled the holes with lakes. The geology up here and of the glaciers in general is fascinating.

Before I left Gilbert I stopped by the camp office and asked where to find a good fish fry? They suggested Wilderness, just down the road. I asked if they served beer there? They said sure and then gave me 2 tokens for any drink at a place called Alibis – a local bar on Broadway, Gilbert’s main street. I stopped at Alibis when I got back for a Pabst and then went to Wilderness for an all you can eat fish-shrimp and fries dinner. With 1 beer it cost $15.01 plus tip.

SATURDAY – August 17, 2014

WEATHER: it rained last night – not hard – but it should make the OTRV owners happy as they glory in the red mud of northern Minnesota.

TRAVEL: There is no RV camping in Voyageur. All campsites in Voyageurs can only be reched by water. They can be reserved. In fact, there are not many RV campsites up here at all – that’s why I’m in Gilbert and planned to spend 4 nights here – but that changed due to the Durand GMO – so I will head for East St. Paul RV early Sunday morning – see the Twins game – go to Durand – park the trailer and then head for Burlington Wednesday.

70 VOYAGEURS NP – INTERNATIONAL FALLS, MN

Voyageurs National Park

Katabegama Visitor Center – I drove to this site – spoke to ranger and there just isn’t much here. A small exhibit area – no hiking trails. Same films as I’ve already seen. There were a good number of docks and boats and empty trailers. Also, a good number of resorts along the road - on the lake. It seems like this is cross country ski and snowmobile country in the winter.

Voyageurs National Park - boat ride

Voyageurs National Park
That's really an eagle

Voyageurs National Park

Rainy Lake Visitor Center - this is literally the western edge of the park.

I signed up for the 2 ½ hour Grand Tour on board the Voyageur tour boat. It made a stop at Little American Island. The tour also located 3 eagle nests and I saw at least 7 eagles, including 1 young eagle – 3 months old– all brown – stays close to the nest - but is now as large as a adult.

The oldest rock in the park tells a recent story – fault zones in exposed 2.8 billion year greenstone revealed gold embedded in the quartz veins. The discovery sparked a short lived mining rush in the 1893. To accommodate the gold miners on Little American Island, Rainy Lake City sprung up on the shores of Black Bay and grew to a population of 2000. No one got rich and the boomtown was abandoned in 1901. There is only one re-constructed building left of the city and the mills. The city was laid out for over 1200 lots.

Voyageurs National Park

Voyageurs

Little America Island is very small – only 3 acres – maybe 400 feet by 200 feet – fully accessible with paths and bridges. The island was all but clear cut and a tower constructed – since this was all rock – the shaft and two vertical shafts, called adits, were blasted with dynamite – the main shaft was 200 feet down.

There were other islands where shafts and adits were blasted into the rock. The mining wasn’t profitable and then came the Klondike Gold Rush – guess where everybody went?

This boat trip was well worth the $30. The boat itself is owned by the NPS and is authorized to carry 49 passengers – it’s twice as large as the boat that took me out to Isle Royale and that boat had at least 50-60 people on it – never did see a life jacket. The crew said they would give them to you if required . . . . . . now in retrospect sure – just like the Titanic – you freeze to death in the water anyway. On this tour and boat they did it right. They told you where the lifejackets were, showed you how to put them on, etc. There were 28 people on board. Binoculars were available for all aboard and blankets were also available if it got cool for some – imagine that! The day was perfect – sun was out – in the 70’s – a great day for a boat ride and tour. It was worth the 4 hour round trip up again . . . .

Had to kill some time – found the Viking Bar – strange we watched the Packers-Rams game. I only stayed 20 minutes, but the Pack was ahead. After the fact - it appears they won 21-7.

St. Thomas Aquinas

St. Thomas Aquinas, International Falls. MN Another change – originally planned to go St. Joseph’s – Gilbert, MN - early mass 4pm – but I decided to take the boat ride at Rainy Lake so I found a 5 pm mass at St. Thomas Aquinas in International Falls, MN. A young priest with red hair – a full church – but Father Francis from Ghana read the gospel and gave the homily. He also acknowledged he had an accent – however – no matter how hard I tired – his homily was incomprehensible – I could only make out every 10^th word.

Left International Falls after 6 pm – got back to Gilbert and decided to eat at Wilderness Restaurant – walked in around 8:20 – they close at 9. I had a California Burger and fries. Clouded up and it got cool – it was in the low 60’s with a slight breeze by 9pm.

SUNDAY – August 18, 2014

WEATHER: cloudy – some rain later – 55 got to the mid 70’s

TRAVEL: Sherwood Forrest Campground, Gilbert, MN to East St. Paul RV Park. About 200 miles – interstate almost all the way still took me about 3 ½ hours.

East St. Paul RV Park – exceeds expectations. I got here around 1115 and the reception was just way above average – got me right away. This isn’t a bad place either – I have a pull through site with water and electric – it was 50 amp – they gave me a cord to convert to 30 amps – led to the site. Not a very big park but they have a nice playground, volley ball court with soft sand and a heated pool.

Target Field Minneapolis - Fox News

TWINS vs. KC ROYALES. I drove 20 minutes to the Fort Snelling METRO Station. Caught the train to TARGET FIELD – cost me $0.75 for a Senior ticket, else it’s $1.75. The ticket is good for 2.5 hours. No collection point – strange – honesty . . . . . on the way back 2 police officers boarded the train at the stop right after the stadium and checked for tickets – if you don’t have one it’s a $120 fine and a misdemeanor – buy the ticket.

Target Field - Minneapolis

I had a near dugout Row 3 Seat 9 ticket for the game. After my traditional walk aournd the stadium and purchase of some traditional items – SOLD OUT of SHOT GLASSES & CAN KOOZIES – doesn’t sound like they plan to reorder this year - Well, it’s raining the Roayles are ahead 7 to 1 in the 2^nd inning – it’s raining – finally a rain delay called at the bottom the 4^th – it’s almost 3pm my ticket it good for 10 more minutes – I get out of there . . . . .

Not impressed with the stadium – just not impressed – some people may like it – but I was not impressed. Hey, Wrigley Field has more character, the vendors at Philly are still the best and I like the layout of Mller park and the field in Cleveland.

Royales beat the Twins 12 to 6.

Fort Snelling Historic Site

Fort Snelling

So, I was so close – I decided to visit Fort Snelling Historic Site. This is run by the Minnesota Historical Society - it appears they don’t a lot of funding from the state – too bad . . . . Well it cost me $9 Senior to get in – otherwise its $12 - - - - it’s a nice donation to the historical society – but don’t bother . . . . there is no museum – a short film - an exhibit on the Indian/Black American Heritage – the fort had Civil War re-enactors for this weekend – done well . The fort – well overall – it’s a fort – if you’ve seen one or more - nothing real special. They did have several Civil War Posters ($10) featuring 5^th Minnesota in the Western Theatre. There was one print entitled “On the Fence” at Mill Springs, KY. It cost $50. Mill Springs – who paints about Mill Springs – well I queried if they had one – not – probably good for me – saved me $50. It didn’t fit my profile anyway . . . the only draw is Mill Springs – not a very big battle and it was in KY.

August (M) 18 -19, 2014 Durand, WI

GOLF Wild Ridge GC, Eau Claire Bauer Built General Manager Open (T)

August (W) 20 Burlington

August (Th-T) 21 – 26 Chicago and back via Amtrak

136^th General Conference

National Guard Association of the United States (NGAUS)

Fri - GOLF Harborside International GC, Chicago NGAUS Golf Tournament (F)

Tortoise Club - Chicago - met Amy & Jon

Sat Opening – Keynote Speakers:

Senator Lindsey Graham, SC, Co-Chair Senate National Guard Caucus

GEN Mark A Welsh III, Chief of Staff of the Air Force

Governor’s Recption – Field Museum