2 April 4-10, 2014 St. Louis-ESGR, Jefferson, Lincoln, Cardinals, Grant, Hoover, Effigy

APRIL 4, 2014

TRAVEL: Burlington to St. Louis, Crowne Plaza Hotel.  Approximately 356 miles 6+hours with a good deal of rest stops.  Interstate all the way from Highway 11 on toll in Illinois at the border.

WEATHER: mostly rain, started in high 30’s 59+ when I reached St. Louis – got into the 60’s.  TERRRAIN: My journey took me through Illinois – boring.  Finally saw some green along I-55 nearing Springfield.

ACCOMODATIONS: initially scary -  i.e. Dirty - the parking structure has water dripping from the terrace above – thought I was in a cave – right across from the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial (the arch).  On the 28^th floor nice view to the south – King with a couch and desk – spacious - I’ll give it time to cool down – a little warm compared to what I’m used to.  Can’t get the WIFI to work

WHY:  to attend a 2½ day Employer Support of the Guard and Reserve (ESGR) Volunteer Leader Training Program (VLTP). 

Had an appetizer - 3 sliders soaked in Smithwick’s, pickles & onions & a Harp at Tegin’s Irish Pub – a few blocks down - while I was waiting for my room.

The GARMIN works fine.  My new Stanley themos still has hot coffee at 3 pm

St. Louis
Ballpark Village

IT GOT BETTER:  After the walk back from Tigin’s, in the rain – it stopped raining and I explored some more of downtown.  Busch Stadium and a complex called shopping/entertainment complex called Ballpark Village is just a 4 block walk. I stopped at the Cardinals Nation restaurant/bar.  Yes, I am in St. Louis and don’t not think I’ll order a Miller.  I stopped into the Cardinals Administrative Offices and they were very accommodating when I requested that my Wednesday ticket be exchanged for the evening game on Tuesday.  They also gave me a credit for the parking pass which I will not need.  I think I’ll be home a day early.

Stopped by their store – got some “stuff” for Dan – Kaleb – Dave and a koozie for me – stating a new collection.

St. Louis downtown is a lot better when the sun shines through the clouds.

Met Mike and Bruce in the lobby and we went out for dinner at a place called Caleco’s – halfway between here and the stadium.

There was a Tornado Warning while we were in Caleco’s.  I don’t want to find out what you do if there is a Tornado Warning and you’re on the 28^th floor of a hotel in downtown St. Louis.

APRIL 6, 2014

1 JEFFERSON NATIONAL EXPANSION MEMORIAL (1 of 398) – St. Louis, MO

Gateway Arch, the Museum of the Westward Expansion, and the Old Courthouse.   A breathtaking National Park stands as a tribute to Thomas Jefferson – the man whose dream inspired the westward spread of freedom and democracy.  All located in St. Louis, MO

Jefferson - Old Court House

OLD COURT HOUSE – part of the Jefferson Expansion Memorial

Spent 2 hours in the Old Courthouse.  Worth it.  St. Louis history short course follows:

1682   Sier de la Salle claimed the entire Mississippi Valley for the King of France and named it Louisiana in honor of the king.

1763   Pierre Laclade established a French trading post 15 miles south of the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers.

1764   Laclade and his traders built log huts and named the site St. Louis after the 13^th century crusader Louis XIII.

1821   Missouri becomes a free state – remember the Missouri Compromise.

Jefferson - Old Court House
Dred & Harriet Scott

Jefferson - Old Court House
Dred Scott

1847 DRED SCOTT CASE  -  Dred and Harriet Scott filed a case.  Long story here: born into slavery in Virginia, moved to Missouri in 1830 – a “free” state. – original owner dies – Scotts sold to an army physician – lived nine years in free territories and made no attempt to get freedom – Scott was illiterate and had no money – his original Virginia owner helped finance the court case.

1846 On April 6, Dred and Harriet Scott file separate petitions for their freedom in the unfinished St. Louis Courthouse (now called the "Old Courthouse" and maintained by the National Park Service).

1847 In a trial held in the Old Courthouse, the Scotts lose their case on a technicality. They are given permission for a second trial by the Missouri Supreme Court.

1850 On January 12, in a room on the first floor, west wing of the Old Courthouse, the Circuit Court of St. Louis County awards Dred Scott and his family their freedom. Mrs. Irene Emerson appeals to the Missouri Supreme Court.

1852 The Missouri Supreme Court, convening in St. Louis, overturns the Circuit Court decision. Missouri breaks with past court decisions and no longer enforces the laws of free states and territories, declaring that "times now are not as they once were." The court defends slavery itself, saying that it places "that unhappy race within the pale of civilized nations."

1854 The Scotts file a new suit in Federal Court. John F.A. Sanford of New York, Irene Emerson's brother and agent, is named as defendant. The defense maintains that Dred Scott is not a citizen, and thus has no right to sue in court. The court upholds the right of Scott to sue, but the jury finds that he and his family are still slaves. The Scotts' lawyer, Roswell B. Field (father of the poet Eugene Field) appeals to the Supreme Court of the United States.

1856 In an atmosphere of increasing distrust between North and 1857 South, the Dred Scott case is considered by the U.S. Supreme Court. Montgomery Blair and George T. Curtis argue on behalf of the Scotts, Reverdy Jonson and Henry S. Geyer for Sanford. On March 6, 1857, Chief Justice Roger B. Taney reads the official opinion of the court. Taney feels that Dred Scott's suit for freedom should be dismissed for the following reasons

1. At the time of the adoption of the Constitution, African-Americans were not considered to be citizens, thus Dred Scott had no right to sue in court.

2. Residence in Wisconsin Territory had no effect on Dred Scott's status because the Missouri Compromise was invalid. Congress had no power to pass laws that limited slavery, because the right of property in a slave was guaranteed by the Constitution.

Jefferson - Old Court House  - court room

BOTTOM LINE:  The court dismissed the case and ruled that the Scott’s were property, like your car, when you cross state lines you still own it.  Only the Scott’s were human.  Four years later Civil War – the founding father’s “all men are created equal” never addressed the slave question.  The Scott’s obtained freedom from Taylor Blow, a descendent of their original owner.

1857 Dred and Harriet Scott were given their freedom on May 26, 1857 at the Old Court House.

APRIL 7, 2014

EXERCISE: 35 PU  20 SU  1.0 w  .25 w 3%   Nice facility at Crowne Plaza – plenty of room – always seems warm here – treadmills are located a step above everything – facing the windows – I stepped off to get a towel and forgot there was a step – it hurt to run.  Watch you step.

OPENING DAY for the Cardinals.  Couldn’t get a ticket – so I’ll go Tuesday evening.  It is very close to the hotel.

2 LINCOLN HOME National Historic Site (2 of 398) – Springfield, IL 

Lincoln home National Historic Site

The home of Abraham Lincoln shared with his wife and children for 17 years restored to it 1860’s appearance.  The whole street and homes have been restored  to their 1860’s appearance.  I’ve been here before and it is always worth the visit.

Located in Springfield, IL, it’s about an hour and a half drive from St. Louis.  I’ve been here before – it is still worth 2 hours visit the house and stroll the two blocks where Lincoln lived.  Good film takes about 20 minutes.

Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum

LINCOLN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY and MUSEUM.  This was very much worth the time. – about 6-8 blocks from the Lincoln Home.  I drove and found Celtic Mist close to where I parked, the bartender suggested the Brickhouse for a good burger.   This is the also close the old state capital and the train station.   Very new, state of the art sights, sounds, smells---- two holographic films  Lincoln’s Eye’s and Ghosts of the Library  - - - were exceptional.  The museum itself is worth every minute of a 3 hour walk through.  They were also showing photos of Annie Libovitz.  It was entitled Pilgrimage. At the train station, across the street – in the train station -  they had an exhibit centered around Spielberg’s Lincoln.

The Civil War in 4 Minutes     This was so impressive, I ended up buying the DVD - - - - - I think it covers more than 4 minutes or 1 week of the war for every second.  You’ve got to see this. 

Lincoln's Tomb
Masoleum in right background

Lincoln's Tomb

LINCOLNS TOMB   was the last stop of the day     Mary Todd Lincoln along with sons Eddie, Willie and Tad.  The marble and statuary in the mausoleum has just been redone – along with lighting.  No lines to see Lincoln’s tomb as there are to see Mao’s in Tiananmen Square; then back to St. Louis.

Oh yes, I could be walking liking Jim, I think I really pulled my hamstring this morning. 

APRIL 8, 2014

EXERCISE: 35 PU, 1.5 w  Felt much better after a nights rest but the back of the upper thigh still hurt – still unable to run.

Met Jim M a cup of coffee and some pasties.  We spoke for about an hour and then walked a block or so the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis; Byzantine Revival architecture.  Opened in 1914, it’s a wonderful piece of art - full of mosaics.  The one mosaic does identify the Society of Mary.  St Louis is over 50% Roman Catholic

3 ULYSSES S. GRANT National Historic Site (3 of 398) – St. Louis, MO

U.S.Grant National Historic Site

The home is called White Haven and commemorates the military and political careers of U.S. Grant, as well as the life he shared with his wife Julia Dent Grant.  I got a personal tour of the home by a Ranger.  There was no one else around.  The barn is now a museum highlighting Grant’s life . . . .and yes the green is its original color.  This is the area where he met his wife – the Dent’s were slave holders – Grant never did own a slave  . . . .

A small book shop and a film on Grant’s life.  This is a 3 hour tour.  Grant’s Farm (a Busch enterprise) is adjacent but not open until for another week.

Ulysses S. Grant NHS
grounds

Ulysses S. Grant

LUNCH at St. Louis Bread – the original home of Panera Bread – here the name St. Louis Bread remains.  My first visit – cup of broccoli cheddar soup and ½ of an Asian Sesame Chicken Salad – very tasty – berry tea $11.

Ulysses S. Grant - Whitehaven  - winter/sping NPS photo 

Jefferson Western Expansion
Memorial Arch

Went back to the Jefferson Western Expansion Memorial to see the finish going through the Museum of Westward Expansion and see the film “Monument to the Dream” – a 1962-64 documentary of how they built the arch.  Glad I went back.  The film is dated but then it was the early sixties – amazing how they built that thing.  It was built in triangular section.  At the base there are there are three panels each 20 feet across for a base  60x60x60.   The Museum of Westward Expansion is really great.  It covers US expansion and the journey of Lewis and Clark.  Animatronics – state of the art – today.  The films, the tram the museum 4-5 hours.  Better to spread over 2 days.

8 Apr 2014.  Cardinals 5 – Redlegs 7.  I sat in the Homerun section – all

Busch Stadium
this is an internet photo
not sure if its the old or new stadium

inclusive – covered if it rains - under the scoreboard in center field.  Great view – single seat at a table – hot dogs, chicken, beef, sald, cheese nachos, jalepenas, salad and Bud or Bud light.  A little cold, I was dressed warm but the wind must have brought the temperature down to around 40.  A “new” stadium – everyone here raves about it.  I’m sure it was an improvemtn over the “old” but I prefer Miller Park.  1) I might have stayed past the 5^th inning (it was 9:15 pm-a long game) 2) from the outfield seats I really couldn’t tell what was going on – i.e. Miller has better scoreboards on the baselines  3) I listiened to the game on Monday drifin in and on Tuesday they have an announcer that sounds as old as dirt – a Max McGee of the Cardinals.

BUSCH STADIUM    Note the Arch, Old Courthouse (on the left) Crowne Plaza is just to the left of the Arch.  I sat in the 1^st row just above the lower bleacher seats in right center field

APRIL 9, 2014

SYNOPSIS – Th 3 April to Wed (am) 9 2014.  St Louis, MO Springfield, IL.  There is a lot to see in St. Louis.  The Jefferson National Expansion Memorial is a must.  The ESGR was an ideal venue to get me downtown but SCOTT AFB is also close.  The Metro (train) will take you there in 30 minutes and I’m sure the room rates are better but you can’t beat the downtown location.  St. Louis appears easy to get around in.  ACCOMODATIONS:  Crowne Plaza 1^st impression, scary at first I’d rate it a 8, close to almost everything.

EXERCISE:  35 PU, 1.25. w, ,50 3%  Still a little achy – now I’ve got a right big toe to coddle – who knows

TRAVEL:  St. Louis, MO to Hoover NHS, West Branch, IA – a 5 hour drive.  West Branch, IA to Dubuque, IA Holiday Inn Express a little more than 1 hour and 45 minutes.

WEATHER:  left St. Louis around 40 and in the mid 60’s by the time I got to West Branch, IA. Sunny.

4 HERBERT HOVER National Historic Site (4 of 398)

Herbert Hoover National Historic Site

There was more to this place then I thought.  A walking tour – narration listen on your phone.  Try it 1-888-244-4178 – enter 101 through 129.  Stayed here 4 hours including lunch, could have used 5.  A reconstructed neighborhood; the library; the gravesite; and an opportunity to walk 2.2 miles of trails through the prairie.  Howeve, noise pollution, the prairie is adjacent to the noise of the highway.  West Bridge itself is quiet.  I didn’t see a tavern.  Great lunch at Reid’s & Beans Coffee Shoppe – only open for lunch 6 choices – all 8.95 each.  I had a delicious quiche with side salad, thinly sliced cold crisp apples, grapes and iced tea. 

“Being a politician is a poor profession, being a public servant is a noble one”                                                                                Herbert Hoover

Herbert Hoover Presidentila Library & Museum

HERBERT HOOVER PRESIDENTIAL MUSEUM & LIBRARY  Almost

didn’t think this was worth the time but it certainly was.  Cost me $3 and a very delightful museum.  Admittedly didn’t know much about Hoover, he died when the Beatles came to the US so I really didn’t follow . . . . I do remember my mom talking about him – or his ‘Hoovervilles’ she grew up in the depression.  The museum changed my view.  As always it’s history.

Herbert Hoover - Friends Meeting House

Hoover was born in West Bridge, IA in 1874.  His family was Quaker.  His father a blacksmith – 1 brother – 1 sister.  Their parents died in 1880 and 1884.  The children were split up between the family and Hoover ended up with an uncle in Oregon.  HOOVER was an ORPHAN.

He graduated from Stanford with a degree in Geology - Mining Engineering.  Married and traveled in Australia and China.

Herbert Hoover - inside of Friends Meeting House

A self made man, Hoover became comfortably wealthy and during WWI helped stranded Americans return from Europe.

1914 - Chair of Commission for Food Relief in Belgium.

1917 - US Food Administrator for President Wilson.

1918 - 1919 Director of American Relief Administration.  This later turned into CARE.

1921 - 1928 Secretary of Commerce for Presidents Harding and Coolidge.  Responsible for much of the standardized parts and materials in the US

1929-1933 - The “Great Humanitarian” was elected 31^st President.  Ran against Al Smith and won by a landslide popular vote.  Boulder/Hoover Dam begun. Hero to scapegoat -of course he was blamed for the depression and was not re-elected. 

1936-1964 - Chairman of the Boy’s Clubs of America

1946-47 -  Plays key roles in founding children’s welfare and relief organizations CARE--UNICEF

Attended the opening of the Truman Presidential Library; Truman reciprocated

TRUMAN: in his no nonsense style said “Mr. President, I believe this is too small”

HOOVER: “Perhaps, but knowing the federal government, I am sure it will grow.”

Hoover gravesites

HOOVER BURIAL SITE   simple

TRAVEL: After the visit to Hoover NHS a drive to Dubuque, IA took about 1 hour 45 minutes down some rural highways – fairly straight – little traffic.  Arrived at a Holiday Inn Express.  I asked about a place to eat and the desk clerk mentioned a sports bar just down the street.  He gave me 2 drink tickets and a coupon for 10% off.  I had a buffalo burger watched the Cubs-Pirates and Brewers-Phillies for awhile and left with a bill just over $8.  The bartender gave me $2 off a burger that was ordered “medium” and came to me “well done”  I left a $5 tip.

APRIL 10, 2014

EXERCISE: 35 SU, 1.5 w, .5 w 3% still some soreness

TRAVEL: Dubuque Holiday Inn Express to Effigy Mounds NHS ( a little over an hours – a quiet drive) and then home another 3 hours (not so peaceful taking Hwy 18 to Madison then 90 to Newville and then home.

SITREP:

·         I’ve got to master connecting to a wireless Internet connection.  Lost another 30+ minutes in the attempt.  Frustrating.

·         What’s going on? Riots at Iowa State? For what reason?  It just doesn’t happen in the inner cities.

·         A 16 year old sophomore stabs 20 students at a school near Pittsburgh.  A security officer and an assistant principal finally subdue him.

·         An airliner is still missing and we bury 3 soldiers killed by a fellow soldier at Ft. Hood, TX before he turned the .45 cal on himself.  . . . Ft. Hood has been down this tank trail before..

·         Reds beat the Cardinals again 4-0.  Milwaukee lost to the Mets 3-4.  Cubs beat the Pirates 7-5. Watched some of the last two games last night.

·         AFGHANISTAN:  Nearly 60% of eligible Afghans voted last week despite threats of the Taliban to cut off any ink stained finger they found.  Democracy fever? 

o   Afghanistan is poor, ethnically divided, corrupt, and at war

o   Afghanistan’s democracy cup is half full

o    US should not just cut, run and leave the Afghans

o   Two-thirds of the population I under 25 – children of war – maybe they have a craving for demorcracy – they are also at the right age to be recruited for war

o   School enrollment is up - Girls are going to school

o   Over 2,300 US troops have died in Afgahnistan

o   Some say our soldiers have done what we’ve asked them to do and we should pull out

o   If so, will this turn into the 3^rd or 4^th war we’ve lost

·         Yesterday was a good day.

Funny, yesterday I visited the Hoover Presidential Library.  His campaign goals seemed so much like those of today – peace, prosperity for all, aid to children . . . . . history – study it – or wee will make the same mistakes again and again and again and again

5 EFFIGY MOUNDS National Historic Site (5 of 398)

Effigy Mounds

This is so close to Wyalusing State Park, just a little upriver from Prairie du Chien.  You can spend a whole day here hiking.  The trail to the top of the bluff was best that I’ve seen i.e. the wood chips looked fresh – no winter debris – sides of the trail well maintained.  Of course it’s about 500 ft up the bluff – glad the temp was around 59.  Spent 3 hours here but again with the hiking – it could have been a full day on the trails like I did last fall at Governor Dodge State Park.

Effigy Mounds map

The Visitor Center has a small museum and a short DVD about the mound builder culture in North America.  There are 206 known mounds; 31 are in the form of animals – bear, deer, eagle.  Became a NHS in 1949.  The mounds are difficult to see from the ground – it’s almost like they were meant to be seen from the air.  The Boy Scouts outlined the mounds in the 70’s t hat’s where the aerial photo comes from.  Mounds are not unique to this area.  My first experience with a mound was at Boy Scout Camp in the 60’s, Indian Mound Reservation, on Silver Lake in Waukesha County.  I-94 runs south of the camp today.  There was an effigy mound on high ground, in the form of a turtle.  I’ll also see mounds in Ohio at Hopewell.

Effigy Mounds - Conical (round) shaped mounds

4 types of mounds   CONICAL      LINEAR      COMPOUND       EFFIGY

Effigy Mounds - map of effigy mounds in the sahpes of animals

This was good chance to learn again about Native American culture.  Interesting that in 1882 William Tecumseh Sherman (yes that Sherman) said  Indians are “wasteful occupants”   ouch.  He’d never remain in command today – but then it was the Indian Wars.

Effigy Mounds - Mississippi River  -  Sunrise at Fire Point lookouot   NPS photo

Walked the Fire Point Trail – a short 2 mile hike took about an hour.  Met the Ranger who wrote the trail guide back in 1969.  A great place for a walk – close enough to visit again.