WEATHER: low 40’s last night started out sunny – got cloudy by the time I traveled to Harper’s Ferry - expect rain – raining by 5pm
TRAVEL: The hills and rills and mountains of PA, WV
and MD – almost a 4 hour trip averaged around 50+ mph – for 176 miles. Averaged 8.2 mpg. Traffic light to medium.
Harper’s Ferry
Battlefield KOA – this place has the KOA Presidential Award –someone must
have stuffed the ballot box – not even close to the hospitality at Rivers
Edge. The site is not level, the clerk
gave me bad directions to the site, WIFI does not work, - only good thing
----stay one day; one day free
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| Harper Ferry National Historical Park |
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| Harper Ferry National Historical Park - map |
Harper’s Ferry is located where the Potomac
and Shenandoah Rivers meet. It is situated in a lowland surrounded by three
strategically high points – Maryland Heights (north of the Potomac River) –
Loudon Heights (south of the Shenandoah and where the Potomac River meets) – Bolivar Heights ( to the west between the
Potomac & Shenandoah Rivers) – almost impossible to defend.
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| Harper Ferry National Historical Park |
October 1859 – John Brown and his followers, determined to arm
enslaved people and spark rebellion, seized the Harper’s Ferry armory. The raid failed with most of the men killed
or captured. Brown’s trial and execution
focused attention on the issue of slavery and propelled the nation toward civil
war.
WILLIAMSPORT – July 6-16, 1863 During the night of July 4-5, Lee’s battered army began it’s retreat from Gettysburg, moving southwest on the Fairfield Road
toward Hagerstown and Williamsport, screened by Stuart’s cavalry.
July 11 – Lee
entrenched a line protecting the rain swollen Potomac River but could not cross.
July 12 – Meade reached the vicinity and probed
the confederate line.
July 13 – skirmishing was heavy along the lines
as Meade positioned his forces to attack.
In the meantime the river fell enough to allow construction of a new
bridge, and Lee’s army began crossing after dark on the 13th.
July 16 – David Gregg’s Union cavalry approached
Shepherdstown where Confederate Fitzhugh Lee & J.R. Chambliss’s cavalry
brigades held the Potomac fords against the Union infantry.
COOL SPRING – July 12, 1864 this battle, brief in duration was
desperately fought checking federal pursuit of Jubal Early’s army after it
defeated a federal force at Monocacy on July 9th. The battle is representative of the
division-sized engagements that occurred almost weekly throughout the remainder
of 1864 Valley Campaign. These
encounters led up to the decisive Battle of Opequon (Third Winchester) on
September 19th.
BERRYVILLE – September 3-4, 1864 Union Gen Philip Sheridan reached Berryville, on September
3. Here he came upon elements of Gen
George Crook’s corps going into camp.
Confederate Gen R.H. Anderson (Kershaw’s) division attacked with limited
results. During the night, Confederate
Commander Jubal Early brought up his entire army but by daylight founds
Sheridan’s position too strongly entrenched to assault. Early withdrew after dark behind Opequon
Creek.
I’ll take the bus down to the historic site tomorrow and take the driving tour – never
have done the whole road tour. Since
WIFI doesn’t really work at this KOA I’ll try to get to the Wyndom in
Gettysburg early on Wednesday.
TUESDAY APRIL 29, 2014
WEATHER: Rained most of the night, rain today,
thunderstorms, flash flood warnings, high of 50 low of 50. It was 49 and wet when I woke up. I think
today should be indoor activities, a day to visit museums. MS, AL, AR are getting battered by
tornados. WIFI still doesn’t work.
16 ANTIETAM NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD
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| Antietam Visitor Center |
There is a FEE charged here.
I’ve been here at least 7
times before and have walked most of the
battlefield. Saw the film again. Produced in 2010 – narrated by James Earl Jones, with James McPherson and Gordon
Rhea (historians) and others. Very good.
America’s Bloodiest Day - over
23,000 casualties North & south the battle is also
referred to as “Artillery Hell”
September 17,1862
– the battle of Antietam. Lee’s first invasion of the north.
BACKGROUND: Gen George McCllellan who had been fired by Lincoln is given command of the Army again after Gen Pope’s defeat at Second Bull Run. He is a master of reorganization and refits the Army is record time and sets off to follow or block Lee as he moves up the Shenandoah Valley and occupies Fredericksburg, MD.
Lee splits his
forces. Gen Thomas Edward
“Stonewall” Jackson is to seize Harpers Ferry (now WV it was VA then). Longstreet and
Lee move to
Hagerstown, MD. A small
confederate blocking force (rear guard) is left at the passes of South Mountain
(Turner’s Gap, Fox’s Gap and Crampton’s Gap).
The National Road (now US 40) runs through Gap to Boonsboro, MD.
The IRON
BRIGADE of the West , as the story goes, got it’s name at Gap when McClellan
observing the fighting up the National Road at Turner’s Gap supposedly said, “Who are those men? They must be made of iron.”
. . . and so the IRON BRIGADE.
The Federals overwhelm the Confederates and Lee
retreats. Actually, McClellan delays and misses an opportunity to
crush the Army of Northern Virginia (ARNV).
“ Mac” is a great organizer, has a tremendous ego,
doesn’t like Lincoln, and is very, very, very cautious. He always thought he was outnumbered. This was partly due to Pinkerton’s
exaggerated intelligence, on numbers of the enemy.
September 17, 1862
McClellan squanders his
forces, using them piecemeal – he outnumber s the confederates almost 2:1. Lee
still doesn’t have his entire army – much of it still at Harper’s Ferry.
Lee sets up a defense with his back
to the Potomac River. Many books
have been written about this battle and the action of the Iron Brigade in Cornfield. A very good and large battlefield, very
little development – looks much like it did in 1862. The battle can be developed into 3 separate
actions. Each has stories that I will
not go into here.
Morning – Cornfield
and the West Woods: Gen Joe Hooker’s (yes this guy was single and his
ladies were referred to as Hooker’s) I
Corps supported by Gen Joseph Mansfield’s IX
Corps attack through the Cornfield and the East Woods. They are stalled by the confederates and pull back. Gen Edwin Sumner’s Corps attacks the West Woods with Sedgwick ‘ Divison; they are pushed back and take heavy casualties.
Middle – Sunken Road
(Bloody Lane): The other two divisions of Sumner’s
II Corps attack the confederate defensive position at the Sunken Road. They meet stiff resistance until an
confederate order is misunderstood and the federals succeed to drive them from
the Sunken
Road but cannot pursue all are exhausted.
End – Lower Bridge
(Burnsides Bridge): Gen Ambrose Burnside (yes this is where the term
sideburn’s come from – he had very long side whiskers) dilly dallies in getting across the Antietam
Creek. His corps is held off by little
more than a regiment or two.
Federal troops get across, push
the rebels back and just as victory seems imminent. Confederate Gen
A. P. Hill’s Division arrives from Harpers Ferry and pushes the federals
back. The day ends in stalemate . . . a
draw.
Nothing happens the next day. A truce is called to collect the dead and
wounded. Lee escapes overnight and goes back to Virginia with the Army of
Northern Virginia.
Lunch at Benders in Sharpsburg. Think I’ve stopped in every time I’m in
Sharpsburg. Jon, Dick, Dave, Paul and
Sarah have all been here. They’ve
couthed this place up. The bar is the
same but the pool tables are gone – it doesn’t seem so much as a “biker bar” - customer friendly bartender that looks like
she actually is educated - drank a local brew
called 1605 Irish Red - it
was really good, dark smooth not bitter but a $6 a draft – it may not be that
good. French onion soup and salad
completed the lunch. Like the sign here says “If you are drinking to forget,
pay in advance.”
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| Chesapeake & Ohio Canal - Williamsport, MD VC |
Chesapeake & Ohio Canal – Williamsport, MD Visitor Center.
Just my luck – closed on Tuesday.
Martinsburg, WV. Got off the road and went to an advertised “historic” visitor center (like “historic” downtown Burlington) but glad I did. It was located in the Belle Boyd house. She acclaimed notoriety after she shot a union soldier for insulting her mother and later became a confederate spy.
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| Belle Boyd House - Martinsburg, VA |
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| So what happened here? 2nd floor picture in Belle Boyd House G H O S T L Y |
A very big old house. The historical guide here said the 2nd floor is haunted by ‘friendly ghosts’ footsteps – creaks – etc. It was creepy – I heard or imagined I heard that stuff . . . . I took one picture of a room on the 2nd floor. This was creepy . . . . better the than the supposed "ghost" tours of Gettysburg - - - - - Judge for yourself – never had that happen before . . . . .
Across the street is an old B&O roundhouse/yard/maintenance
facilities. Glad I stopped here.
WEDNESDAY April 30, 2014
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| Appalachian Trail Conservancy Harpers Ferry |
Another fortuitous stop . . . located in Harpers Ferry. I drove here – in the rain. Also for a last time went down on the shuttle to Harpers Ferry for cancellation stamps at the ranger station there
Took down the trailer – in the rain – Nothing like getting ready for a “move” in a cold rain – just like the army – could have been worse - I guess it could have been dark.
TRAVEL: drove from Harpers Ferry, WV around Frederick,
MD to the Wyndham Hotel in Gettysburg
to meet up with the Chicago Civil War
Round Table. I parked my trailer in the parking lot and got a real bed and
shower for 5 days.
17 GETTYSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK
No fee here but there are charges for the Museum, Film and
Cyclorama in the Visitor Center. I’ve almost
lost count of the days I’ve spent in
Gettysburg but it was over 52 last year. With the next 5 days here, I’ll have at least 57. I’ve walked most parts of the battlefield and the city. I know the area pretty well – not an expert –
but I can sort out the BS when I hear it.TIP: This is pronounced GET TIS BURG not GET TEES BURG or so they say
18 EISENHOWER NHS
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| Eisenhower House |
SUPPER at the Dobbin’s House Tavern in Gettysburg. Dave, Dick, Jon, Paul, Sarah & Kris have eaten here with me.
THURSDAY MAY 1, 2014
I’m not going to describe the battle here. If you want to take the short course read
Michael Shaara’s “The Killer Angels.” Although, historical fiction it is very
readable. My first reading was in the
late 1970’s – it created a fondness for Gen
James Longstreet – it also made Joshua Chamberlain a almost household word –
until the book few know of Chamberlain
and the 20th Maine.
If reading is not your bag – watch the movie “Gettysburg.” Based
on the book it is done pretty well. Some
notables in the film are Jeff Daniels who plays COL Joshua Chamberlain,
Martin Sheen portraying GEN Robert
E. Lee and Sam Elliot playing BG John
Buford.
There are 1000’s of books written about the battle of
Gettysburg and the units that fought here for 3 days.
We leave on buses at 8 am – there is a lunch and dinner is a
7pm - a full day. Ed Bearss, Chief
Historian Emeritus of the National Park Service and a retired USMC Colonel and
WWII veteran is the guide of Bus 1.
Bearss is a living legend at age 94.
Jeffrey Wert author of several books on Gettysburg is the guide on Bus 2. I’ve always travelled on Bus 2.
There is no free time. I’ll just highlight the stops on this tours supplanted
with pictures. Some of these pictures
may be from previous trips.
GETTYSBURG DAY 1 July
1, 1863
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| Gettysburg - 1st Shot Marker |
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| First shot at Gettysburg marker Marshall Krolick is providing the background of the 8th IL Cavalry |
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McPherson barn - ridge in the background. |
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| Gettysburg Seminary |
Seminary Ridge Museum - this is new. It just opened in July 2013 (the last time I was here was May 2013) It is the old Lutheran Seminary Building – expensive but worth at least 3.5-4 hours to do it right. The cupola and attic tour is an extra fee. Of course I had to go on this. The 4th floor covers Day 1. The 3rd floor covers care of the wounded – it served as a union hospital during and after the battle. The 2nd floor is dedicated the issue of slavery. There is also a new self-guided walk around the grounds that is free. This area is worth at least a half day of your time.
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| John Reynolds |
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| The Death of Reynolds |
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| Gettysburg 2nd Wisconsin |
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| Gettysburg 7th Wisconsin |
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| Gettysburg 24th Michigan |
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| Map With Location of Monuments Herbst Woods is also McPcherson Woods and today it is called Reynolds Woods. |
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| Gettysburg 19th Indiana |
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| The Railroad Cut and the 6th Wisconsin and the Brigade Guard fight with the 2nd MS. The "brigade guard" consisted of 20 men from each regiment, so in reality each regiment did participate in the fight for the railroad cut |
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| Gettysburg 6th Wisconsin |
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| Herr Ridge Tavern |
Barlow’s Knoll
Lunch was at the Herr Ridge Tavern. Some of you reading this have eaten here with
me before.
Dinner was at the
Wyndham. Jeffrey
Wert was the featured speaker, the events leading up to Gettysburg.
Yes, I bought 2 of Wert’s books. The
Sword of Lincoln – The Army of the Potomac, Simon & Schuster 2005; Gettysburg – Day Three, Simon and
Schuster, 2001.
Another purchase was a mini print by artist Dale Gallon entitled
“We
Have Come To Stay.” Of course it’s
an Iron Brigade print. Gallon received a commission for several paintings
that are used as murals in the museum. I
understand that the originals are in the Seminary Library. Staff was unsure if larger limited edition
prints were available.
FRIDAY MAY 2, 2014
GETTYSBURG DAY 2 July 2, 1863
Interesting Note: Gen Joseph Hooker who was relieved by Lincoln 3 days before the battle did build up the espirit de corps of the Army of the Potomac by introducing Corps Badges. Red for the 1st Division, White for the 2nd Division and Blue for the 3rd Division of each Corps. Every marker/monument at Gettysburg has the Corps badge on the monument:
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| 1st Division (red) I Corps Commanded by Maj Gen John Reynolds |
1st Division (red) I Corps (this was worn by the Iron Brigade) Commanded by Gen John Reynolds KIA on Day 1 as the Iron Brigade attacked into McPherson's Woods
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| 3rd Division (blue) II Corps Commanded by Maj Gen Hancock |
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| 3rd Division (blue) III Corps commanded by Maj Gen Sickle |
3rd Division (blue) III Corps commanded by Gen Sickles. A "political" general - not a West Pointer. Shot the son of Francis Scott Key in cold blood in Washington. He was the first to claim "temporary insanity" and got away with murder. He moved his corps out, without authority, resulted in the Rose Farm, Wheatfield and Devil Den and Trostle Farm fights.
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| 1st Division (red) V Corps commanded by Maj Gen George Sykes |
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| 1st Division (red) VI Corps commanded by Maj Gen John Sedgwick |
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| 2nd Division (blue) XI Corps commanded by Maj Gen. Oliver Otis Howard |
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| 1st Division XII Corps Commanded by Maj Gen. Henry Slocom |
Longstreet’ March –
July 2, 1863
The Alabama Monument
Little Round Top (below)–
July 2, 1863
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| Gettysburg - Little Round Top - scene of fighting July 2, 1863 |
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| View of Devil’s Den from Little Round Top – July 2, 1863 |
The Wheatfield - July 2, 1863
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| The Peach Orchard – July 2, 1863 - Round tops in the background |
South Cavalry Field
Dinner at the Wyndham. Ed Bearss was the featured speaker.
SATURDAY MAY 3, 2014
GETTYSBURG
Culps Hill - occupied by the Federals July 1-3, 1863
Lost Avenue - never saw this never heard of this, it's still lsot
East Cemetery Hill –
occupied by the Federals July 1-3, 1863
Retrace the steps of
Pickett’s Charge – July 3, 1863 this you got to do in order to feel it or even try to understand - to paraphrase Gen Longstreet 'I've commanded everything from a company to a corps and no 15,000 men ever made could take that position'
Confederate High Water Mark – July 3, 1863
Lunch at the
Farnsworth House, Gettysburg.
Dinner at the
Gettysburg Visitor Center
SUNDAY MAY 4, 2014
GETTYSBURG
Weather: 50's cloudy got windier as the day grew on - - - - sunny around 5pm
East Cavalry Field –
July 3, 1863
National Cemetery
Carlisle Barracks and the United States Army War College
We finished around 1230 - 1245 I got in the truck and drove up to Carlisle. OK so this is the first round of golf I played - I've played here before in1999 - easy course - except today - cool windy and it was difficult to find the next hole. OK PENNSYLVANIA is out of the way.
This is Mr. G's - I couldn't find a Mrs.G's Ice cream shop in Gettysburg
Carlisle Barracks and the United States Army War College
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| Carlisle Barracks Golf Club House |
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| Each class has a plaque with a list of graduates MG Scales from North Carolina is a relative of BG Albert Scales commander of Scales Confederate Brigade who fought the Iron Brigade on the first day of the battle of Gettysburg. If I remember correctly Robert Scales has a PhD in history and wrote the official US Army history of the Gulf War. . |
I graduated from the US Army War College (USAWC) in 1999. FA stands for Field Artillery. There is a selection process for attending USAWC. I graduated from the US Army Command and Staff College (CGSC) in the early 90's. Colin Powell referred to CGSC as the Army's "master's program" - he called the war college - the "PhD". Powell, George Marshall, Eisenhower, Patton, and other notables are graduates of USAWC. Graduates today receive a Master of Strategic Studies.
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| US Army War College - Root Hall |
BAD SERVICE: I should have know better after 5 years and 3 trys . . . . the RUBY
TUESDAY here in Gettysburg is still lousy and four years ago I said I would never go there again . . . . . . well, it happened again. I wanted a steak after the tour and golf on Sunday . . . .soooo I thought I'd give RUBY TUESDAY here another try - WRONG - I was seated - in the same place I've always received terrible service - I ordered a beer - I did get the beer but after 25 minutes of ignoring me - not taking my order and listening to the person having trouble explaining the bill the the older couple in the booth next to me - - - - - I went up to the bar - where the bartender serving acknowledged me right away - I asked how much the beer was $3.50 - put down $4 told him to keep the change and left. In the conversation with the older couple I did hear her try to explain her experience - "I'm from Southern California" that may explain it all.
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| Ruby Tuesday Gettysburg don't bother |
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| Gettysburg - Farnsworth House - nice pub in the back lower level |
Farnsworth House and Inn on Baltimore St. We ate here on Saturday. Young BG Farnsworth was one of the three 1861 graduates of West Point who were promoted to cavalry generals just before Gettysburg by Gen Joe Hooker. The other two were BG George Custer and BG Wesley Merritt. Farnsworth was ordered to attack with his brigade, the right of the confederate line on July 3, 1863 by his Division Commander BG Hugh Judson Kilpatrick (referred to by Stephen Sears as "Kill Cavalry" on the right. The charge failed (cavalry alone against infantry dug in is a NO GO) - Farnsworth was KIA.
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