Dave Gapinski's Travels 2014

NOW HERE IS ANOTHER BLOG ODDITY – SOMEHOW THIS ENTIRE ORIGINAL POST WAS OVERWRITTEN WITH THE POST FROM SEPTEMBER – EITHER THAT OR THE PATH WAS IN ERROR. AT ANY RATE ON JUNE 27, 2020, I ACCESSED THE ORIGINAL WORD DOCUMENT AND REPOSTED IT TO THE BLOG – ADDING THE PICTURES AND EDITING TOOK ADDITIONAL HOURS. I wonder if AHMED had something to do with this?

WEDNESDAY October 29, 2014

Kings Mountain
State Park

WEATHER: it was 59 at 5:30 am cloudy, no wind – driving and by 10 am it started to rain; by 11 am it was 52 and windy cold – around 1 pm, I was headed down from the Blue Ridge into NC by 3 pm it was 76 and sunny at Kings Mountain.

TRAVEL: Natural Bridge KOA - VA to Kings Mountain State Park – SC. A distance of about 260 miles trip took about 5+ hours it was Interstate most of the way.

GARMIN was of no use and ONSTAR kind of got me here but I followed signs – if I would have followed ONSTAR it would have taken me to down a rough dirt road for 3 miles to the edge of the park, no place to turn around, lost, and still 7 miles from where I needed to be.

128 KINGS MOUNTAIN NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD PARK – Blacksburg, SC

Back to the Revolutionary War . . . . when we think about that War it conjures up images of Boston, Philadelphia, George Washington - well now here’s the real story. How do you think Washington came to defeat the British Army at Saratoga – you got it – it started here in South Carolina.

Now, Mel Gibson and “The Patriot” is historical fiction but it had most of the right elements thrown into the story – and for good measure even the allusion to Francis Marion, “the Swamp Fox” were thrown into the story for good measure – I guess it was all SC.

-
The British believed and many southerners were Loyalists in support of the crown

Kings Mountain National Battlefield Park

The Colonial Militia broke and did run at Camden, SC (August 16, 1780) – some dropped muskets not even fired

- LTC Banestre Tarleton was mean and vicious. At Waxshaws, SC (May 29, 1780) his command gave colonists ’no quarter’ when surrendering

- The ‘backwoodsmen’ – ‘over-mountain men’ of Scots-Irish background used tomahawks, knives and long rifles and Indian tactics to defeat the British – these guys could be mean also

- Daniel Morgan used three lines of men to defeat Tarleton at Cowpens, SC (Jan 17,1781), Cornwallis was not with him – Morgan’s first line was sharpshooters (whose job was to pick off British officers); second were the militia (who were supposed to fire 3 shots and retire) and finally the continental regulars supported by cavalry

- Morgan’s strategy was to wear down the British by forcing them to go through 3 ranks of men.

You get the picture – the movie really isn’t bad – kind of like most war movies – everything that ever happened in war always happens to the same group of people in a movie – like Apocalypse Now, Saving Private Ryan,and the Deerhunter . . . .

WHAT HAPPENED in 1780?

In early 1780 Britain turned its efforts to the south. 1780 was a bad year for the revolution - . George Washington’s army endured a terrible winter at Morristown, NJ; Benedict Arnold defected; and the colonies lost its largest city in the south, Charleston, SC to the Sir Henry Clinton and the British. Clinton returned to New York and he left Gen Lord Cornwallis in command. With the return of the British to the south, the war became brutal – neighbors fought neighbors.

On May 29, 1780 near Waxshaws, SC LTC Banastre Tarleton attacked a column of about 400 Virginia patriots marching to SC. The Virginians are hopelessly outnumbered and overpowered. They raise a white flag and ask for quarter (to show mercy). Tarleton ignores the plea and 113 are slaughtered, 100 are maimed and left to die, 53 are taken prisoner. The massacre earns Tarleton the nickname “Bloody Bart.” A cry of “give them Tarleton’s quarter” becomes a patriot victory cry for revenge.

The Continental Congress selected MG Horatio Gates, (the hero of Saratoga) to rebuild the Continental Army in the south. His army of 4,000 was defeated by British LTC Francis Rawdon’s combined command of 2,000 British Regulars and Loyalist Militia at Camden, SC on August 16, 1780. This is where some of the poorly trained colonials dropped their weapons and ran. Gates’ army of 4,000 barely put up a fight at all. Gates himself ran from the field.

Cornwallis launched his plan for an invasion of North Carolina. A force of 1,000 led by MAJ Patrick Ferguson marched on his left flank moving northwest as they moved from Charleston.

When Cornwallis reached Charlotte, NC, Ferguson who was on his left became aware of a colonial force of 1,000 ‘over-mountain’ men were nearby. Ferguson, instead of retreating to join Cornwallis, turned to fight and used Kings Mountain as a defensive position. He requested reinforcement from Cornwallis and Tarleton – and got none.

The Americans attacked on October, 7 1780 – Indian-style. Until the officers could gain control of their men the ‘over-mountain’ men gave the defeated loyalists “Tarleton’s quarter.” In the end the Loyalist column was annihilated, convincing Cornwallis to abandon his plans for North Carolina. He fell back to Winnsboro, SC.

The Continental Congress replaced a disgraced Gates with Nathanial Greene.

And in the year 1781:

- Another American commander Daniel Morgan joined Greene. The story of Cowpens January 17, 1781 will follow.

-March 15, 1781 Cornwallis defeats Greene at Guilford Courthouse but at such a cost he stops fighting and retreats to the North Carolina coast. The story of that fight will also follow.

-May 22-June 19 Greene lays an unsuccessful siege to Ninety-Six, a British outpost, but Loyalists soon abandoned the fort.

-October 19, 1781 – Yorktown (another story) Cornwallis surrenders to George Washington.

This place is again almost at the end of the road but there is an excellent Visitor Center, museum and auditorium. The staff here gets a lot of school groups to visit. They show a 35 minute History Channel film on the Battle of Kings Mountain; the museum is excellent. Plan about 1-2 hours in the museum and Visitor Center. There are a number of trails.

SAN FRANCISCO DEFEATS KANSAS CITY 3 -2 and become the WORLD CHAMPIONS

so close, I was reminded that Kansas City was filled with former Brewers Aoki, Cain, Escobar, Svuem and even Yost . . . . most I knew were rooting for KC.

THURSDAY October 30, 2014

WEATHER: 52 at 4:30 clear – dark – no moon – the sky was filled with thousands of jewels – better than anything I saw in almost a month of traveling Michigan, Minnesota or Canada - there was always a ground fog or it was cloudy or maybe it was clear it was after 11 pm EENT

m‘ and before 4am BMNT. It got up to the mid 60’s today – sunny all day – perfect.

TRAVEL: Kings Mountain to Flat Rock, NC (Sandburg Home – 65 miles) to Gaffney, SC (Cow Pens – 35 miles) to Kings Mountain another 35 mile trip.

This time I followed ONSTAR that’s why I know where the dirt road ends and begins. It was a good decision not to take the road with a trailer.

130 CARL SANDBURG HOME – Flat Rock, NC

Carl Sandburg – poet, folk singer, historian, biographer, activist, lecturer, journalist, writer –

Carl Sandburg Home

he was all these things. This is another place worth the time to visit. I spent 2 hours here. It cost $3 to tour the house. The property “Connemara” was the home to Lillian Sandburg’s world class Goat Dairy. The rooms of this 6,000 sq ft home are as the Sandburg’s left them – every room is filled with books – magazines – papers – records – It’s probably more orderly than when Sandburg lived here. Of the place Sandburg is to have said something like ‘a little too baronesque for a socialist.’ The home is very plain.

You have to walk up the hill to the house from the parking lot – not a challenge but steep enough.

There is a 35 minute 1954 interview with Sandburg done by Edward R. Morrow. Wonderful – brought back many memories. I do remember seeing Sandburg on TV – a device he called the ‘idiot box’ but he did enjoy watching baseball on TV. This man was an American.

Carl Sandburg Home
he called the house
Conemera

CARL SANDBURG 1878- 1967

1878 Born January 6, in Galesburg, IL son of Swedish immigrants

1891-97 Leaves school at 8^th grade to get a job to help the family, at 19 travels the country as a hobo – gains an interest in labor laws and the plight of working people

1898 Served as a PVT in the Spanish-American War. Enrolls as a special student at Lomard College.

1899 Received an appointment to West Point but failed the math & grammar exams. Returned to Lombard College, became editor of the college journal and yearbook.

1902-01 Leaves college without a degree. First poetry and prose Reckless Ecstasy published in 1904 as a booklet. Active social-democrat.’

1908 Married Lillian Steichen

1909-13 Writes and edits for several newspapers and magazines.

1914 Poems published in a magazine, wins a cash reward for best poems – discovered by publisher Alfred Harcourt.

1916-18 Daughter Janet born, Works for the Chicago Daily News as a reporter. Daughter Helga born.

1919-23 Harcourt, Brace and Howe publishes the Chicago Race Riots and Rootabaga

Carl Sandburg Home
Dining Room

Stories.

1926 Publishes 2-volume biography of Abraham Lincoln: The Prairie Years

1927-32 Publishes The American Songbag, buys a home on Lake Michigan, leaves newspaper to focus on writing poetry, children’s stories and the Lincoln biography

1935-37 Lillian Sandburg buys her first goats, begins a breeding program

1939 Publishes the 4-volume set Abraham Lincoln: The War Years

1940-41 Wins the Pulitzer Prize for history, elected to the American Academy of Arts and Letters, receives honorary degrees from Harvard, Yale, and other colleges and universities

1945 Sandburgs move to Connemara Farm, Flat Rock, NC

1950-58 Publishes Complete Poems, wins Pulitzer Prize for poetry in 1951, travels and lectures and writes extensively

1959 Delivers Lincoln Day address to Congress, travels to Moscow with Edward Steichen (photographer and Lillian’s brother) as cultural envoies for the State Dept. represents the US at the Family of Man exhibit. Grammy Award, Best Spoken Word, for his recording of Aaron Copland’s, A Lincoln Portrait with the New York Philharmonic.

1960-64 Receives International United Poets Laureate award in 1963; Presidential Medal of Freedom from LBJ in 1964

1965 NAACP honors him for his coverage of the 1919 Chicago Race Riots

1967 Dies at age 89 Flat Rock, NC

Carl Sandburg Home - The People, Yes

1968 Congress authorizes the Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site , the first park to honor a poet

1977 Lillian Steichen Sandburg dies at age 93

There is a great picture of Carl and Lillian taken in 1923 by Lillian’s brother. This guy was quite a man. The work he is proudest of is a book of prose published in 1936, The People, Yes.

There is a goat farm to visit and plenty of hiking trails.

Carl Sandburg Home - the pond below the house

131 COWPENS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD – Gaffney, SC

Cowpens National
Battlefield Park

Revolutionary War Battlefield January 17, 1781.

- The area is called the Cow Pens because locally farmers would graze cattle here assembling them before being driven to market.

- Daniel Morgan’s Army A frontiersman, teamster by trade, experienced at fighting Indians, he was well known for his military abilities, fought at Quebec in 17775 and Saratoga in 1777

-COL Andrew Pickens – commander of 200 militia, these men were tough and experienced

-LTC John Edgar Howard – commander of a battalion of Maryland & Delaware Continental Regulars

-LTC William Washington – commander of the cavalry, a second cousin to George Washington, his 3^rd Continental Dragoons were the main reserve at Cowpens

- Banastre Tarleton’s Army A reputation for being ruthless and fearless in battle. He purchased his commission in the British Army at age 21, commanded a British Legion, a mobile force of cavalry and infantry.

-Legion Cavalry – green uniformed unit, at Copwns it was a mixture of Loyalists

Cowpens

-16^th Regiment of Foot – soldiers selected for their endurance and agility, crack troops – fighting since the war began

-7^th Regiment of Foot – Royal Fusiliers comprised of untested new recruits only partially trained

-Royal Artillery – 18 Royal Artillerymen with two light 6lb cannon

-71^st Highlanders – Fraser’s Highlanders an elite regiment raised for duty in America

-17^th Light Dragoons – an outstanding cavalry corps

The two armies were evenly matched with about 1,000 men each.

Cowpens National Battlefield PArk

Morgan chose to fight in a open wood on ground that sloped gently southeast, the direction from which the British would approach. The field had three low crests separated by wide swales. Morgan formed his troops in three lines straddling the road.

The first line was sharpshooters who stood in small groups. Their job was to slow the British advance. .

The second line, 90 yards behind the first included the militia. Morgan asked them for two volleys at a “killing distance” and then they were to fall back behind the Continentals.

The third line, 150 yards behind the second consisted of the 600 crack Maryland and Delaware Continentals. The cavalry was 150 yards behind them

Cowpens National Batttlefield Park

Just before dawn the British came into full view. Tarleton sent cavalry to send the sharpshooters back, then formed and advanced his line of battle. In reserve he held the Highlanders and the cavalry.

Cowpens National Battlefield Park - view of the field from the British lines

The militia did as requested and dropped 2/3 of Tarleton’s officers. As the British surged into the Continental’s line an order was misunderstood and the line began to retreat.

Morgan rode uup and chose new ground where the Continental’s could rally. Then the men faced about and fired into the British at point blank range, then plunged into the British with bayonets. Washington’s cavalry rode into the fight, while on the British left the militia opened fire as the dragoons and Highlanders. British resistance collapsed.

The battle was over in less than an hour – American Victory.

British losses 110 KIA, 229 WIA, 600 POW/MIA.

Morgan lost 24 KIA, 104 WIA.

Tarleton got away.

There is a short one mile trail that you can walk. The entire battlefield is not that large.

There is a good Visitor Center with a 30 minute film.

A bus from Fort Gordon was on the field doing a staff ride.

FRIDAY October 31, 2014

This is Halloween!

WEATHER: 42 at 5:00 clear – dark – moon has set – the sky still filled with thousands of stars High in the 50’s today – the radio station in Asheville calling for a “winter wallop” - a winter storm warning/watch – a wind and cold event - dropping to the 50’s at 3pm and then down to 33 overnight with what they call a ½” of snow – of course it won’t stay. We’ll see.

It was nice most of the day. A high of 64 – about 7:30 pm - the front – a thunderstorm came through – steady rain – plenty of thunder – distant but loud - not much wind.

TRAVEL: I thought of staying around here today and driving to Greensboro and Guilford tomorrow with the trailer but the word of snow on the road in NC didn’t mix well with me.

Most of the road around Charlotte is 8 lane – I think it’s a practice racetrack for NASCAR. Guilford was a 130+ mile one way drive.

132 GUILFORD COURTHOUSE - NATIONAL MILITARY PARK – Greensboro, NC

Guilford Courthouse NMP
National Battlefield Park

Sounds like it should be a Civil War battlefield but it’s the Revolutionary War – March 15, 1781.

A British victory, dearly bought, for an outnumbered Cornwallis (2,000) over Nathanial Green (4,000) but it cost Cornwallis a ¼ of his command in casualties. Seven months after his “victory” at Guilford, Cornwallis surrendered his army at Yorktown on October 19, 1781.

The Visitor Center has a small museum and a film portraying the views of those who fought in the battle and an electronic map presentation showing the battle as it progressed.

Guilford Courthouse National Millitary Park

There is a 2 ½ walking and a driving trail. In the interest of time, I drove the field.

Guilford Courthouse - National MilitaryPark

The battle was fought in a wooded area with some clearing. Greene set up his defense similar to what Morgan did at Cowpens. Cornwallis goal was to destroy Greene’s army. Like Cowpens this battle moved along a road – but the area was more wooded, covered a larger area, and therefore it was harder to control troops and movement. Eventually, Cornwallis pushed through all of Greene’s troops and the Continental Army and militia had to withdraw. Greene’s losses were relatively light. Cornwallis’ losses were overwhelming. He began a retreat to Wilmington.

Guilford Courthouse - National Military Park

Ranger going around the campground at 4:30 pm saying there is no water – should be fixed in ‘a couple of hours’

SATURDAY November 1, 2014

WEATHER: Rained most of the night. 42 at 6:00 am – hard to ell if it’s rain or the wind blowing water from the trees – nuts and pine cones give a loud crash on the roof. Looks like a totally miserable cold wet day. Rained or drizzled most of the morning. Sun and clear at 1:30 – got up to 55 by 5pm.

TRAVEL: only to Kings Mountain NMP (just down the road) and church in Gastonia, NC

The guy in the trading post with no personality – said the water problem was fixed last night at 7pm. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen or even called anyone a dud – found one in South Carolina – working for the government.

St. Michael's
Gastonia, NC

I spent most of the day reading or titling pictures. I had pictures that I hadn’t titled since last week Saturday. I guess I’ve been busy – I usually title and post within a day. Of course since last week Friday I really haven’t had WIFI either.

5pm Mass St. Michael’s Church & School, Gastonia, NC It appears the farther south and closer to the mountains I go the more conservative things become. This service topped Sacred Heart in Winchester, WV – here there were 5 acolytes – 2 were high school and 3 younger servers in cassock and surplice . The priest wore a traditional chasuble and he was serviced by a deacon. A ritualized, stylized service. Six candles on the altar – this was a high mass. A single voice sung – very pleasant – unaccompanied – tunes were more like Gregorian chant scale – there is a name for that intonation/use of scale. This is a newer church but there is an altar rail complete with gate separating the sanctuary from the rest of the church. Interesting. The sermon was long – on death – all souls day – remembrance. It’s been some months since I attended a 1 hour 20 minute mass. Less than 100 present – only a quarter full.

SUNDAY November 2, 2014

END OF DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME – fall back 1 hour

WEATHER: 33 at 5 am, 45 in the trailer, used the furnace to bring it up to 60. Clear and cold.

TRAVEL: Kings Mountain State Park, SC to Pocahontas State Park, VA.

Sunday morning - old time country on the radio “the country you grew up with” before it was cool to be country.

Pocahantas State Park

Pocahantas State Park - trailer

Sunny, clear sky, high of 61 a pleasant drive if 350 miles. Arrived Pocahontas about 4:15, of course there was no one on duty (state employees & its Sunday) but they did leave my reservation on a clipboard. Out of 120 – there were 20 that were reserved – I had lots of choices. I chose 81 but 84 during the regular season would be more isolated. Still there is lots of space between sites and they are good size. Trees – but most sites are open above. I may like this place.

MONDAY November 3, 2014

WEATHER: A 3 dog night, 28 degrees at 6 am, 35 degrees in thae trailer. Of course I left a vetn open – well there was plenty of fresh air. Should get up to 61 degrees by this afternoon. I’m not sure I’ll ever understand how those Civil War soldiers kept warm with only a blanket or piece of rug and maybe a rubber mat.

TRAVEL: Richmond NBP and a number of Civil war sites.

INFO: When I write about units that are part of the National Park Service I write in a dark blue. Further when I will try to identify the unit in the park by reference such as RNB (Richmond National Battlefield) or PET (Petersburg National Military Park).

There are a number of map guides published by Civil War Trials (CWT) identifying Civil War sites with interpretive markers set up by Civil War Trails. In the Richmond area, there are map guides entitled “The 1862 Peninsula Campaign: Civil War in Tidewater,” “Lee Versus Grant: The 1864 Campaign,” and “Lee’s Retreat: The Final Campaigns.” These are useful to a point, the markers can sometimes be difficult to locate.

133 RICHMOND NATIONAL BATLEFIELD PARK – Richmond, VA

This park has 3 year round visitor centers (Tredegar, Chimborazo, Cold Harbor) and 2 seasonal visitor centers (Glendale/(Frayser’s Farm/National Cemetery, Fort Harrison). Of course the seasonals are now closed.

Almost from the first shots of the Civil War, Richmond became a focal point in the conflict. No other city in the confederacy had as many important features as Richmond. Strategically placed on the James River, Richmond served as an active commercial, manufacturing and transportation hub. It also served as the capitol of the confederacy.

Therefore, Richmond served as the target of almost all Federal advances from the north. It’s battle history can be confusing, as that of the Shenandoah Valley.

I’ve been to many of these sites before but I still will not be able to visit all.

Chimborazo Hospital
Richmond

Chimborazo Visitor Center – Chimborazo Hospital opened in October 1861. It was situated on high ground. The wards were well ventilated and held up to 32 patients. The complex had a capacity of 3,000. It was split into five divisions. Each division had it’s own laundry, kitchen and bathhouse. There was a central bakery and dairy that serviced the entire facility. The layout reminded me of World War II era hospital complexes, most are gone now, that were built on World War II era army posts. None of the original buildings exist. There is a 17 minute film and a small exhibit area. My first visit.

Chimborazo Hospital - Richmond

Tredegar Iron Works
Richmond

Tredegar Iron Works Visitor Center - Named for an iron works in Wales Tredegar was well established before the outbreak of Civil War. The site was shared with other milling operations that harnessed water power from the James River and Kanawha Canal. During the war the works produced artillery, ammunition and other war related material. The owner of the factory arranged for the workers to become their own battalion in the confederate army in order to keep the skilled labor at the factory. When Richmond was evacuated by the confederate government in 1865, the battalion of workers saved the works from being burned by the mob. Tredegar played an important role in the rebuilding of the devastated South after 1865. The VC has two films and 3 floors of exhibits. My first visit, inside – I don’t think it was open when I visited with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable. There is an outstanding museum next door run by a private organization with an admission charge. There is also a fee for parking.

Cold Harobor VC

Cold Harbor Visitor Center – This is a small facility, more like a contact center, located on the Cold Harbor Battleground. There are several hiking trails – I hope to have time to return. There are two separate electric map shows that describe the Battle of Cold Harbor (Overland Campaign -June 1864) and the Battle of Gaines Mill (Seven Days Battles – June 27, 1862). Visited here with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable.

Seven Days Battles

RNB Chickahominy Bluff – part of the outer confederate line. This bluff offered a view of Mechanicsville and the Chickahominy River Valley. Earthworks are still here. Robert E. Lee witnessed the start of the Battle of Cedar Creek from here. First visit to this site.

Seven Days Battles - Chickahominy Bluff - June 26, 1862

Seven Days Battles

RNB Beaver Dam Creek 26 JUN 1862 - First visit to this site.

Seven Days Battles - Beaver Dam Creek - June 26, 1862

Seven Days Battles -
Gaines's Mill - June 27, 1862

Seven Days Battles -
Gaines's Mill - June 27, 1862

Seven Days Battles

RNB Gaines Mill (Watt House) 27 JUN 1862 – There are several trails here. First Visit to this site.

36^th Wisconsin Memorial – First visit here.

Overland Campaign 1864
Battle of the Wilderness - May 5-6
Battles for Spotsylvania Courthouse - May 9-15
North Anna River Campaign - 20-22
Battle of Cold Harbor - 26-27Battle of Totoptomy Creek - May 30

Overland Campaign
Battle of Totoptomy Creek
May 30, 1864
Shelton House

Overland Campaign

RNB Totopotomoy Creek (Rural Plains) 30 MAY 1864 - There is a 2 mile 5 stop trail here. The site also has its own NPS brochure. After crossing the Pamunkey River, about 5 miles north of here, the federals pushed to the banks of the Totopotomoy Creek on May 29, 1864. The confederates were entrenched on the other side of the creek. Over the course of four days, the two armies skirmished.

Francis Barlow’s II Corps Division arrived her Amy 29, 1864. The men found Sarah Shelton and her children in the house. Her husband COL Edwin Shelton was on the other side of the river. The federals used the roof of the house as a signaling station and observation post. The house was hit by confederate artillery fire over 50 times.

The federals dug trenches just west of the house. On May 30, 1864 Barlow’s division attacked. The brigade of COL John R. Brooke pushed down the slope and drove the confederate defenders back, then fell back to the Shelton House when it got dark. Barlow continued the attack on May 31^st, getting 3 of his 4 brigades across the creek. The result of the battle was inconclusive. By June 1^st Grant began to extend his army’s line southward toward Cold Harbor and abandoning the Totopotomony Creek Battlefield.

The Shelton House was the site of the marriage of Revolutionary War patriot Patrick Henry to Sarah Shelton. The final generation of Shelton’s sold the home and 125 acres to the Totopotomony Battlefield at Rural Plains Foundation in 2001. The Foundation donated the house and land to the NPS in 2006. First visit here.

Overland Campaign 1864
Battle of Enon Church
May 28, 1864

Overland Campaign

CWT Enon Church - Stopped here with the Chicago CWRT.

Overland Campaign

CWT Haws Shop – is the same as Enon Chruch

TUESDAY November 4, 2014

WEATHER: 45 in the trailer at 5 am. Mostly cloudy. High was 72 today

TRAVEL: Conclusion of the Seven Days Battles in Richmond NBP and a number of other Civil war sites. Some part of Richmond NBP.

I lost two hours trying to get ONSTAR to get me to a Verizon Wireless Store. My phone died – I think. Thinking about it . . . I tried the old shut it off reboot trick that the Help(less) Desk always told you to do. Well I took out the battery and did a restart – I still wasn’t sure – so I hung around until 9 am

Here’s another ONSTAR fiasco . . . . 1^st try took me to a Verizon store – but it didn’t open until 10am it was 9:30 – so I drove to Seven Pines Cemetery – 2^nd try ONSTAR sent me to a Masonic Lodge address – 3^rd try ONSTAR sent me to an area of downtown Richmond in need of urban development no Verizon store – then I was put on hold for 5 minutes I hung up – my phone was charging again.

Seven Pines

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of Savage's Station
June 29, 1862

Seven Days

Savage’s Station 29 JUN 62 The 4^th of the Seven Day Battles. The main arm of McClellan’s army began a withdrawal toward the James River. Confederate MG John Magruder pursued along the railroad and the Williamsburg Road. His forces stuck MG Edwin Sumner’s Corps which was acting as the Union rearguard. Magruder attacked with the brigades of Cobb, Kershaw, Semmes and Barksdale. Jackson’s divisions were stalled north of the Chickahominy at White Oak Swamp, offering no assistance. At nighfall, the union continued to withdraw across White Oak Swamp.

Seven Days Battles 1862 - Battle of Savage's Station June 29, 1862

Seven Days

White Oak Swamp

Seven Days Battles 1862 - Battle of White Oak Swamp June 29, 1862

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of Glendale
June 30, 1862

Seven Days

RNB Glendale (Frayser’s Farm) 30 JUN 62 A seasonal Visitor Center is located here as well as, a National Cemetery. This is my second visit here and I’ve never been here when the VC is open. Malvern Hill Battlefield is just down the road.

Union troops defended the crossroads near the Old Frayser Farm while McClellan’s Army retreated south toward Malvern Hill. Several Union infantry divisions deployed across several miles to guard the intersection. The confederates under A.P. Hill and Longstreet attacked the position along Long Bridge Road all afternoon but failed to take the intersection, as well as, a National Cemetery. This is my second visit here and I’ve never been here when the VC is open. Malvern Hill Battlefield is just down the road.

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of GlendaleJune 30, 1862
Intersection

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of GlendaleJune 30, 1862
National Cemetery

Seven Days

RNB Malvern Hill 1 JUL 62 This was the last of the Seven Days Battles. From here, McClellan withdrew to Harrison’s Landing. The federals dug no trenches, they stood on a gently sloping hill with massed artillery. Steep slopes on the union left and swamp on the right forced the confederates into the massed cannon and infantry fire. There is a 2+ mile walking trails that goes around and through the battlefield. You get a view of the terrain which thousands of confederates attacked.

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of Malvern HillJuly 1, 1862

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of Malvern Hill July 1, 1862 Federal Cannon

Seven Days Battles 1862
Battle of Malvern Hill July 1, 1862 " A splendid field of battle"

SIEGE

CWT New Market Heights 29 Sep 64 – unable to locate marker – construction along New Market Road. I did find some NPS interpretation markers at Fort Hoke.

Siege of Petersburg - New Market Heights September 29, 1864

SIEGE

CWT Deep Bottom I 27-29 JUL 1864 Hancock’s II Corps crosses the James River in support of Grants attacks at Petersburg. Indecisive. Hancock withdraws across the river on 29 JUL 1864. Federals cross later and establish a bridgehead for operations.

Siege of Petersburg - Deep Bottom I July 28, 1864

CWT Deep Bottom II 13-20 AUG 1864

Siege of Petersburg - Deep Bottom II August 13-20, 1864

Siege of Petersburg - Trent's Reach January 24, 1865

CWT Battle of Trent’ Reach 24 Jan 1865 In night attack, the Confederate James River Squadron makes a gallant attempt to attack the Federal Supply Depot at City Point. The US Navy pushes them back and the now alerted guns of Fort Brady batter the squadron.

Siege of Petersburg
map of fortifications

Siege of Petersburgmap of fortifications

SIEGE

RNB - Fort Brady OCT 1864 Built in Oct 1 by USCTs on the James River, this fort anchored the Federal line to Fort Harrison. This is at the end of a road and is worth the visit. Well preserved, a short trail. My first visit.

Siege of Petersburg

Siege of Petersburg
Fort Hoke Septemb3r 29, 1864

SIEGE

RNB - Fort Hoke 29 SEP 1864
Ord’s Federal’s take the confederate fort. Ord is WIA. Confederates counterattack and find that the Federal’s have withdrawn back to Fort Harrison. Fort Hoke becomes an anchor in the confederate line.

Siege of Petersburg Fort Hoke Septemb3r 29, 1864

SIEGE

RNB - Fort Harrison 29 Sep 64 A confederate fort designed by Lt William Harrison. Taken by the federals on 29 Sep 1864 and renamed Fort Burnham after Maine BG Hiram Burnham. This is a well preserved fort with a walking trail around the inside. The trail is worth the walk and the time. The Visitor Center here is seasonal, my third visit and I’ve never been here when it was open.

Siege of Petersburg
Fort Harrison September 29, 1864

Siege of Petersburg
Fort Johnson
remains of trenches

SIEGE

RNB - Fort Johnson

SIEGE

RNB - Fort Gilmer

SIEGE

RNB - Battery Alexander

Siege of Petersburg - Fort Johnson picture of inside trench and moat

Siege of Petersburg - Fort Gilmer Hopeless Attacks

SEIGE

CWT – Battles along Darbytown Road October 1864

Siege of Petersburg - Battles Along Darbytown Road

WEDNESDAY November 5, 2014

WEATHER: 57 at 4:45 am. Cloudy. Should be in the 70’s today.

TRAVEL: Conclusion of

I’ve been to Petersburg twice before. The second time was with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable. I visited some of the same sites and a few that I’ve never stopped at in the past.

Fort Lee is adjacent to Petersburg NB. I didn’t have time to visit the two museums on base: U.S. Army Women’s Museum and U.S. Army Quartermaster Museum.

134 PETERSBURG NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD – Petersburg, VA

Petersburg National Battlefied
You Are Here indicates the Visitor Center & STOP 1 BATTERY 5

Petersburg NB is divided into 4 units: City Point with a Visitor Center; The Eastern Front with a Visitor Center and driving tour; The Western Front with a seasonal Visitor Center and driving tour; and Five Forks with a Contact Station and driving tour. Each of the open Visitor Centers/Contact Stations had a 15-20 minute video to view. The driving tours total at least 33 miles in length and there is ample opportunity to make a wrong turn. GARMIN and ONSTAR were of limited use. I was able to visit all 4 units in a day because I’ve been here before. Even at that I plan to return to Five Forks. Petersburg NB has plenty of hiking and biking trails. There is a lot of landscape to cover. You can tour the entire NB in a day but allow at least two days.

Petersburg NB commemorates the 9 ½ month long siege upon the city from June 1864 to April 1865.

EASTERN FRONT DRIVING TOUR

PNB Confederate Battery 5 - Stop 1

Petersburg National Battlefied - STOP 1 BATTERY 5

PNB Confederate Battery 8 – Stop 2

Petersburg National Battlefied - STOP 2 BATTERY 8

PNB Confederate Battery 9 – Stop 3

Petersburg National Battlefied
STOP 3 BATTERY 9

Petersburg National Battlefied
STOP 3 BATTERY 9
Reconstruction example of defenses

PNB Harrison Creek – Stop 4

PNB Fort Stedman – Stop 5

Petersburg National Battlefied - STOP 5 FORT STEDMAN

Petersburg National Battlefied
STOP 6 FORT HASKELL looking toward Fort Stedman

PNB Fort Haskell – Stop 6

PNB Fort Morton – Stop 7

Petersburg National Battlefied - STOP 6 FORT HASKELL

PNB The Crater – Stop 8

Petersburg National Battlefied - STOP 8 BATTLE OF THE CRATER

Petersburg National Battlefield - STOP 8 BATTLE OF THE CRATER

Blandford Cemetery – CWT

Union Fort remains in Hopewell, VA

GRANT’S HEADQUARTERS AT CITY POINT

The Visitor Center is located in the home of Dr. Richard Eppes. The family called it

Petersburg National Battlefield
City Point

“Appomattox” Plantation. There is a short film and a ranger will provide a house tour. During the siege it served as offices for the U.S. Quartermaster and staff during the siege.

Petersburg National Battlefied
City Point

Grant’s cabin is also located on the grounds. I was built in November 1864 and is the only remaining structure of 22 that were built. It was a little larger than most because Grant’s wife Julia and son Jesse stayed with him for at least 3 months during the siege. Only 10% of the structure is original. It was moved from here to Philadelphia and then back to City Point.

CWT - FORT DAVIS – a Petersburg City Park located at the intersection of Crater Rd and Flank Road.

CWT – Fort Alexander Hayes – a Petersburg City Park located along Flank Rd.

WESTERN FRONT DRIVING TOUR

PNB Fort Wadsworth Stop 1

Petersburg National Battlefield - Stop 1 Fort Wadsworth

Petersburg National Battlefield
Stop 1 Fort Wadsworth

Petersburg National Battlefield
Stop 3 Fort Fisher

Petersburg National Battlefield
Stop 2 Poplar Grove Cemetery

PNB Poplar Grove National Cemetery Contact Station (seasonal) Stop 2 This was my first visit and the contact station was closed. The cemetery was established in 1866 for Union soldiers who died during the Petersburg and Appomattox campaigns. I found a gravesite identified as a confederate soldier. The national cemetery contains many the graves of many United States Colored Troops. Most of the grave stones are flat and level with the ground. There were at least 5 rangers on site with trimmers. They were getting ready for a Luminaire ceremony on Saturday honoring thosye who served.

PNB Fort Fisher Stop 3 This was the largest earth fortification on the Petersburg Front. There were a number of dogs barking frantically across the street – I decided not to do much walking.

Petersburg National Battlefield - Stop 3 Fort Fisher

PNB Fort Gregg Stop 4 On April 2, 1865 600 Southern soldiers defended Forts Gregg and Whitworth (to the north) against 5,000 Federals for 2 hours enabling Lee’s army to safely

Withdraw from the city that night.

Petersburg National Battlefield - Stop 4 Fort Gregg

FIVE FORKS BATTLEFIELD

There is a NPS contact station located on Courthouse Road, southeast of the Five Forks intersection. I watched a short film with emphasis on union General and Confederate Artillery Officer William Pegram. Pegram grew up not far from here and was killed at the battle of Five Forks.

THURSDAY November 6, 2014

WEATHER: 55 at 4:45 am. Cloudy – rain in the air – some drizzle.

TRAVEL: Laundry, Post Office, Propane Refill, Maggie L Walker NHS, Verizon

135 MAGGIE L. WALKER NHS – Richmond, VA

Located just off of downtown Richmond; a little difficult to find but worth the visit. You enter

Maggie Walker

the Visitor Center from the back. It is on 2^nd and Leigh St. The house is located on Leigh St, entry is given by a ranger. Likewise, the education center is also accessible only with a ranger.

In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s Jackson Ward was one of the most prosperous black communities in the US. Known as the birthplace of African American entrepreneurship, this area is today one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts associated with black history and culture. There is a 17 minute video in addition to the ranger tours. Plan about 2 hours.

Maggie Walker

In 1901 Maggie Lena Walker presented her community with a bold idea for economic empowerment: “We need a savings bank, chartered, officered, and run by the men and women of this order (Independent Order of St. Luke) . . . . Let us have a bank that will take nickels and turn them into dollars.” In 1903 St. Luke Penney Savings Bank opened its doors – first chartered bank in the US founded by a black woman. Today, it thrives as the Consolidated Bank & Trust Company.

At age 14 she joined the local independent Order of St. Luke. This was a fraternal organization, a benevolent society that aided African Americans in times of illness, old age and death. She became president of the organization in 1897. The Order had less than 100 member, about $40 in the bank and over $400 in debt. She grew the organization into a life insurance company and bank.

Maggie Walker

She was born in 1864 and died in 1934. Her funeral was the largest in Richmond since the death of Robert E. Lee. She was respected by many. Her education consisted of high school and before she was married she was a teacher.

Throughout her life Maggie L. Walker spoke out for equal rights and fair employment, especially for women. She worked alongside Mary McLeod Bethune and W.E.B. Dubois and served on boards of local and national civic organizations, including the National Association of Colored Women and the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People.

She was the first black woman founder/president of a chartered bank in the US. The house was donated by a grand daughter to the NPS in 1978 as a memorial/museum to Maggie L. Walker.

FRIDAY November 7, 2014

WEATHER: Rained last night. A 2 dog night, 51 in the trailer at 4 am. Clear and bright thanks to the moon.

TRAVEL: Left around 7:15 am - George Washington’s Birthplace was a 2 hr 15 minute drive, another 40 minute to Fredericksburg – 30 min to Chancellorsville and another 1 hr and 15 minutes back to Pocahontas. About 180 miles total.

136 GEORGE WASHINGTON”S BIRTHPLACE NHS – Colonial Beach, VA

The culture that shaped Washington was based on waterways and abundant land. There

George Washington Birthplace

were few cities in the agricultural colony because planters wither made what they needed or imported it from England. George would be considered 4^th generation.

His Great Grandfather John Washington came to Virginia in 1657 and married the daughter of planter Nathanial Pope. Pope gave the couple 700 acres on Mattox Creek to start their own tobacco farm. John steadily added land until he owned 10,000 acres including a nearby piece of land on Bridges Creek and another tract on Little Hunting Creek that would become Mount Vernon.

His son Lawrence born in 1659 was schooled in England and married the daughter of a former member of the Virginia Governor’s Council.

Their son Augustine expanded his inheritance by purchasing land on nearby Pope’s Creek. George was the first child of Augustine and Mary Ball. When Augustine died in 1743 George inherited a modest share of the estate. When George married Martha Custis, widow of a wealthy planter, the joining of the two families and his inheritance of Mount Vernon, carried them into the tidewater aristocracy.

George Washington Birthplace

None of the original buildings are on the site but the land is beautiful. Popes Creek is more like a river and the Potomac is about a mile downstream. The Potomac here is almost 5 miles wide but from the high land here you can see Maryland. It is a beautiful scene.

The farm and house has been rebuilt to represent a 1730-1750 colonial upper class

George Washington Birthplace

plantation/farm. George lived on this land for only the first three years of his life. It is said that during his lifetime he never returned here. The NPS has made this a working farm. The structure on the property is a house but not a home. Nobody ever lived in it. It was built in 1930, the obelisk at the entrance to the park was originally on the site of the house. It is a 1/10 scale of the Washington Monument erected by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1896. The foundation of the house George was born in was discovered by an archeological dig in 1936. There is a 1970’s film – hardly any history – Plan to spend at least 2 hours on the sight. In addition to the rebuilt memorial house there are plenty of out buildings and trails.

Fredericksburg Visitor Center – a nice city to visit - parking can be difficult but worth the effort. Start at the Visitor Center. A short film about the city and it’s history – it is not all about battlefields.

Fredericksburg is home to:

George Washington’s boyhood home - age 6-19

Hugh Mercer’s Apothecary Shop – been here before a good experience

James Monroe’s (5^th President of the US) law office

Gari Melcher’s Home and Studio

Mary Washington Home and Museum – George’s mother

And the Rising Sun Tavern sounds like it could be fun

There are plenty of shops, boutiques and eating establishments along Caroline Street.

Additionally, there is a trolley tour and Civil War themed walking tours. I hope I have time to revisit.

137 FREDERICKSBURG & SPOTSYLVANIA COUNTY NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD PARK – Fredericksburg, VA

This Battlefield Park gets complicated because there are 4 battlefields within the park.

13 Dec 1862 Fredericksburg Union Defeat MG Ambrose Burnside vs. GEN. R.E. Lee

27 Apr–May 6 1863 Chancellorsville Union Defeat MG Joe Hooker vs. GEN R. E. Lee

5-6 May 1864 The Wilderness Stalemate LTG U.S. Grant vs. GEN R. E. Lee

8-21 May 1864 Spotsylvania Court House Stalemate LTG U.S. Grant vs. GEN R.E. Lee

Fredericksburg Visitor Center

This is my 5^th visit to the battlefields. You can’t do them all in day – maybe two. Each has a driving tour and there are plenty of trails if you’re interested. I’ve done a few of the walking trails in the Wilderness and in Fredericksburg, and I’ve trudged my share of paths at Spotsylvania. Maybe three days. And of course Historic Fredericksburg offers plenty of history as well as shopping and places to visit for another 3-6 hours.

Today I visited Historic Fredericksburg and the Visitor Center on Caroline St (they have a 15 minute film); the Fredericksburg NB Visitor Center; Chatham Plantation (The Lacy house); and the Chancellorsville/Wilderness Visitor Center. Fredericksburg, Chatham and Chancellorsville all have 17-25 minute films. Only Chancellorsville charges to see a film. There is no charge to visit the park. All the exhibits at the VCs have been updated i.e. the exhibits at Chancellorsville hadn’t been updated since the 1960’s – things are better now.

For consistency I will try to provide a synopsis of each battle following the driving tour.

SATURDAY November 8, 2014

WEATHER: A three dog night – 27 at 4:15 am 38 in the trailer – clear sky – bright moon.

TRAVEL: Left around 6:45 – arrived at Fredericksburg around

December 11-13, 1862

FREDERICKSBURG

Seems to me Ambrose Burnside had a good idea. His army beat Lee’s to Fredericksburg but it could not cross the Rappahannock River – the corps of engineers did not show up with the bridging material until after Lee’s army had arrived. The delay allowed Lee to establish what has been called his strongest defensive position in the Civil War.

April 27-May 6, 1863

CHANCELLORSVILLE

Chancellorsville April 27- May6, 1863
'Lee's most brilliant battle'

After the debacle of Fredericksburg, Lincoln fired Burnside as commander of the Army of the Potomac and put MG Joseph Hooker in charge, the 5^th commander of the army in less than 2 years.. Hooker did much to re-build a demoralized army. Supply and provisions improved, and he established a system establish system of badges (patches) to identify corps and divisions within the army. This built pride and spirit de corps – still exists today.

Chancellorsville April 27- May6, 1863
Jackson's Flank Attack

Hooker tired to squeeze Lee’s army between his forces advancing from Chancellorsville on the west and Fredericksburg in the east. Lee was significantly outnumbered – Longstreet’s corps was sent south for the winter. Hooker’s forces in the west crossed the Rappahannock and Rapidan Rivers and established a defensive line near the Chancellor house. On the night of May 1, Lee discovered that the Union right flank was vulnerable - “in the air” – no anchored on any solid terrain feature. A bold and daring plan was developed by the confederate leadership that night – a plan that split Lee’s forces once again. The plan called for Jackson’s celebrated attack on the right flank of Hooker’s army.

On May 2, Jackson marched west and attacked the right flank of Hooker’s army.

SUNDAY November 9, 2014

WEATHER: 43 at 5am 48 in the trailer – some clouds

TRAVEL: less than 20 miles St. Ann’s Church, then to Pamplin Park and Five Forks

8:30 Mass at St. Ann’s Parish – South Chesterfield, VA A newer church, interesting no crucifix behind the altar – only windows – semi-circular setup with a risen/crucified Christ to the right. and the Holy Family to the left. An older priest, but modern. Service lasted 70 minutes – not the sermon but the parishioners seemingly endless announcement – they are active. About 150 present but at least 8x that number across the street at the Baptist Church. Sheriffs present to direct traffic. Feast of St. John Lateran – the cathedral of Rome – and that we are the church - homily mentioned what would Jesus say about all the church’s with different factions of Christianity today.

PAMPLIN HISTORICAL PARK & NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE CIVIL WAR SOLDIER

This is a full day visit. There is an admission but also something here for the everyone: the civil war historian, the hiker, the southern plantation visitor or museum visitor. Plenty of demonstrations to keep the kids interested. Ask at the desk for kids activities – similar to the NPS Junior Ranger Program.

Pamplin - Tudor Hall Plantation

The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier: Allow an hour – the exhibit is called Duty Called Me Here: The Common Soldier’s Experience in the American Civil War – the premise is to follow this individual through the exhibit while he tells you his story – over 15 choices to follow with earphones.

Tudor Hall Plantation: A visit here will satisfy the need to see the lifestyle of the plantation community.

Pamplin
The Battlefield Center

The Battlefield Center: Exhibits, maps, and interactive screens tell the story of Petersburg. The emphasis is on VI Corps “breakthrough” which happened just outside the museum’s doors on Arpil 2, 1865. Two films are available. “War so Terrible” (50 minutes runs on a schedule) – a powerful story of brothers, friends, the war and reconciliation 30 years later. The second film “The Breakthrough” (15 minutes run on demand) is a film using photos and soldiers individual words to describe the battle. Bothe are worth watching. Allow at least an hour here maybe two.

The Military Encampment: costumed interpreters recreate the daily routine of military life.

The Breakthrough Trail: There are 3 self guided loops. The trail itself describes the battle that took place here on April 2, 1865. The Hart Farm loop leads to Confederate fortifications and a wartime home. The Headwaters Trail examines the area’s human and natural history.

Pamplin - The Breakthrough

Banks House: LTG Ulysses S. Grant used this home as his HQ immediately following “the breakthrough.”

and there is a bookstore and –and – and Worth the visit – spend the day. Even on this slow Sunday in November the park was fully staffed and had a full schedule from 9-5. Check hours before you visit.

During the siege of Petersburg skirmishing occurred daily but there were 79 battles/actions of significance and given names. Eight are close to Pamplin.

Aug 18-21, 1864 Weldon Railroad

Aug 24, 1864 Ream’s Station
Sep 29, 1864 Peebles Farm
Mar 31, 1865 White Oak Road

Feb 5, 1865 Hatcher’s Run
Mar 29, 1865 Lewis Farm

Apr 1, 1865 Five Forks

Apr 2, 1865 Fort Gregg

CWT - White Oak Road

PNB - Five Forks Battlefield

STOP 1 UNION CAVALRY ATTACKS – Courthouse Rd was the avenue Federal troops would try to use to reach the South Side RR from Dinwiddie Court House. After fighting south of this location on March 31^st the Federals advanced to this area before dismounting and attacking the Confederates along White Oak Rd.

Five Forks - The Union Cavalry Attacks

STOP 2 THE ANGLE – The southerners built their breastworks here at a 90 degrees angle to protect their left flank. Four cannon’s were placed here to hold this critical position. MG Governeur Warren moved against the position with an overwhelming force.

Five Forks - The Angle map

Five Forks - The Intersection

STOP 3 THE FIVE FORKS INTERSECTION – This key intersection was the Federal objective. Ford’s Road leading north was the closest route to the South Side RR, Petersburg’s last supply line. COL William Pegram was ordered to emplace 3 cannon at this wooded crossroad. As the attack began the mounted Pegram was fatally wounded.

STOP 4 THE FINAL STAND – Confederate cavalry under Rooney Lee were to protect the infantry’s flank on the west end of the line. MG George Armstrong Custer led several charges against the southerners to break the line but the Confederates held. The remainder of the Five Forks defenders would withdraw from the battlefield in the evening under their cover.

Five Forks - The Intersection

STOP 5 CRAWFORD'S SWEEP – MG Samuel Crawford’s division of the V Corps missed the Confederate line at the line – getting lost in the woods – they turned and came out on the Ford’s Road – behind the Confederates and on the Ford Road which was their objective. Turning south they moved against the Five Forks intersection encircling the southern defenders.

Five Forks - Crawford's Sweep map

PACKERS 55 – da BEARS 14

in a 7:30 PM CST Sunday night start at LAMBEAU .

IMAGINE THAT . . .

MONDAY November 9, 2014

WEATHER: 34 at 4:15am 43 in the trailer – some clouds – mostly sunny high got to 67

TRAVEL: Pocahontas SP to Chancellorsville First Day (a site purchased by the Civil War Trust) to Chancellorsville VC to Wilderness to Spotsylvania to North Anna to Pocahontas SP.

First Day at Changellorsville - Civil War Trust

CWT CHANCELLORSVILLE FIRST DAY – because this site is so far east of the park I really wasn’t aware the battle began here. The land was purchased by the Civil War Trust – a preservationist group. I do donate but not the $100 or more needed to get my name listed on the roll for this site.

There is a walking trail here with interpretive markers. Someday I may have the time to walk it.

I passed Salem Church 5 times in 3 days and said I’ll stop the next time – well I may have missed my chance, I may not pass this way again on this trip . . . . another brilliant Southern move and battle.

NBP WILDERNESS BATTLEFIELD 5-6 MAY 1864 – Grant vs. Lee – The start of the Overland Campaign. This was the first encounter between Grant and Lee. At Lincoln’s appointment, LTG Ulysses S. Grant took command of a military machine that was superior to the South in manpower, industry, and resources. Grant was made general-in-chief of the Union armies. His plan to was to attack simultaneously along all fronts. He made his HQ with the HQ of MG George G. Meade’s 120,000 man Army of the Potomac augmented by MG Ambrose Burnside’s independent command, the IX Corps.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN - Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864

The NPS has an eight stop self-guided auto tour. This is my 5^th visit to the battlefield. I’ve walked all the trails, some twice. Plan a whole day 6-8 hours or the shorter 2 hour drive through overview.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864
sketch of Grant whittling

STOP 1 Grant’s Headquarters – Grant commanded all the Union Armies, but he chose to make his HQ with the Army of the Potomac. The Army of the Potomac, still commanded by MG George Gordon Meade, augmented by Ambrose Burnside’s independent IX Corps totaled 120,000 men. Up to this point the Army of the Potomac still had to win a major battle on Southern soil. During the Battle of the Wilderness, Grant has been described as ‘impassive’ smoking cigars and constantly whittling on sticks – the only indication of the tremendous stress he was experiencing.

ELLWOOD: A Quiet Country Farm - This is part of the NPS but only open on weekends. A typical antebellum agricultural operation – plantation. For months after the Battle of Chancellorsville, it served as a hospital. This is the burial location of “Stonewall” Jackson’s amputated arm. I visited here with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864
SAUNDERS FIELD

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864
SAUNDERS FIELD view from the Confederate lines

STOP 2 Wilderness Battlefield Exhibit Shelter – When the Army of the Potomac crossed the Rapidan River it entered the Wilderness. Grant and Meade had no intention of fighting on such inhospitable ground. Lee, however, seized the initiative and advanced along the Orange Turnpike with LTG Richard Ewell’s Corps and LTG A.P. Hill advancing along the Orange Plank Road, a parallel road about 3 miles to the east. Longstreet’s Corps was still a day march behind.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864
SAUNDERS FIELD - GORDON'S FLANK ATTACK

The battle started here in a small clearing called Saunders Field on May 5, 1864. MG Gouveneur K. Warren’s V Corps was ordered to attack Ewell’s advance along the Orange Turnpike. The federals were turned back.

Later on May 5^th MG John Sedgwick’s VI Corps attempted to turn Ewell’s left flank. Ewell met the threat and defeated Sedgwick’s plan.

On May 6^th Grant focused his attacks on A.P. Hill’s Corps along the Orange Plank Road 3 miles to the east. MG John B. Gordon saw an opportunity and requested permission to attack Sedgewick’s right flank in the woods on the Federal right. Two federal brigades were routed – two union generals captured along with 1000 prisoners. The attack came too late in the day to affect the outcome of the battle.

Gordon’s Flank Attack Trail is a good walk. I’ve walked it twice before – there are some interpretive markers – it even makes more sense when you have a brochure describing the route of the trail.. Unfortunately, most rangers and volunteers do not offer hiking trail brochures when you visit the Visitor Center. You have to ask for what you aren’t sure they have. Bottom Line. My 4^th time on this trail and the first time I had a trail guide brochure.

STOP 3 Saunders Field -

STOP 4 Higgerson Farm – You have to walk up a trail to get to this location. The Higgerson family lived on this farm. Only the remains of the chimney are on the site.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864 HIGGERSON FARM

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864
CHEWING FARM map

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864
CHEWING FARM

STOP 5 Chewing Farm – Only the remains of another small farm mark this location. Grant’s plan was to seize the Chewing Farm plateau and divide Lee’s army with A.P. Hill to the east along the Orange Plank Road and Richard Ewell to the west along the Orange Turnpike.

Lead elements of Warren’s V Corps occupied the farm on May 5^th but Warren pulled them off to support his attack along the Orange Turnpike. Later in the day, Confederate troops occupied the plateau but they too were called off to support troops in other parts of the battlefield.

Grant ordered Burnside’s IX Corps to retake the ridge early on May 6^th but Burnside failed. The farm, perhaps the most important part of the terrain, remained unoccupied until Confederate troops again took possession on the morning of May 6th

STOP 6 Tapp Field – This is the farm of a 55 year old widow named Catharine Tapp. Two good stories here.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864 TAPP FIELD
Lee Attacks Without Longstreet

1) On May 5^th Lee, A.P. Hill and J.E.B. Stuart were surprised in this clearing when a body of union soldiers emerged from the woods. Startled at the sight of 3 confederate generals and their staffs the Union soldiers vanished back into the woods missing a chance to bag three of the South’s top leaders.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864 TAPP FIELD

Meanwhile, Hill’s troops continued on down the Orange Plank Road toward Brock Road. They met stiff resistance from Winfield Scott Hancock’s II Corps. On May 6^th Hancock drove the Confederates back to the Tapp Field.

2) Union victory was about certain then, Longstreet’s Corps arrived on the field. Lee seized the lead brigade, the Texas Brigade, and attempted to lead it in a charge against the Union line. The Texans would not budge, they surrounded Lee’s horse and led him to the rear. Then they charged across the field losing 500-800 men.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864 LONGSTREET'S ATTACK

There is another parking area southwest along the Orange Plank Road to gain access to the trail or you can walk the trail from Stop 6.

STOP 7 Longstreet’s Wounding – The Texas Brigade’s attack stalled the Union advance long enough for Longstreet to deploy the rest of his corps in a line across the Orange Plank Road. Union reinforcements arrived and fighting reached a stalemate. Local residents showed Longstreet an unfinished railroad bed where he could strike Hancock’s left flank.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness May 5-6, 1864 LONGSTREET'S WOUNDIING

Hancock’s troops had not dug in and Longstreet’s attack succeeded brilliantly. However, as Longstreet and his officers galloped down the Orange Plank Road, he found himself between Confederates right and left. Confederates from the right fired at the horsemen thinking they were Federal cavalry. The Confederates seriously wounded Longstreet and killed BG Micah Jenkins. With Longstreet down, the momentum of the attack waned.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN Battle of the Wilderness
May 5-6, 1864 BROCK ROAD-PLANK ROAD INTERSECTION

STOP 8 Brock Road – Plank Road Intersection - Lee took charge of the operation after learning of Longstreet’s wounding. He wanted to build on the morning’s success, but four hours passed allowing Hancock to rally his troops and build entrenchments. Fighting from the protection of the earthworks, the Federals easily beat off the Confederate attacks.

Two days of fighting in the Wilderness cost Lee 11,000 men, Grant 18,000. Battered but unbeaten Grant issued orders on May 7 to move to Spotsylvania Courthouse.

CWT TODD’S TAVERN

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Battle of Todd's Tavern May 7, 1864

NBP SPOTSYLVANIA COURT HOUSE BATTLEFIELD 8-21 MAY 1864 Unable to defeat Lee and after a loss of nearly 30,000 men in the Wilderness, Grant slid south toward Spotsylvania Courthouse. Lee again threw his army in front of Grant’s. For two weeks the two armies battled one another across earth works made of dirt and logs. When they finally moved on, another 30,000 casualties, and a landscape dotted by trenches and thousands of shallow graves.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Spotsylvania Courthouse

I’ve been here several times before but I still haven’t walked all the trails. With the Chicago Civil War Roundtable we walked much of the field in front of Warren’s Corps on the Union right. Emory Upton’s trail and of course much of the Mule Shoe. Today I travelled the entire Hancock Road – do not attempt this unless you’re in a truck – some of this road has no homes on either side, it is not inhabited and therefore in disrepair. I would have been much more comfortable in a ¼ ton jeep, gamma goat or a HUMMV. My truck has been initiated in the mud of Virginia.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864
Spotsylvania Courthouse
Stop 1

STOP 1 SPOTSYLVANIA BATTLEFIELD EXHIBIT SHELTER – there is no Visitor/Contact Center here. Grant realizing that he could not attack Lee to advantage in the Wilderness he ordered the Army to make a night march to Spotsylvania Courthouse. If he could reach Spotsylvania before Lee he would control the shortest route to Richmond.

Lee was outnumbered 2:1 (100,000:54,000); Lee won the race to Spotsylvania. MG Richard Anderson took command of Longstreet’s Corps after Longstreet’s wounding in the Wilderness. Anderson reached the area before the federals and beat back a series of union attacks on May 8, 1864. This gave the rest of Lee’s army time to reach the battlefield.

Both sides entrenched. MG John Sedgewick supervised the federal positions and criticizing some of his soldiers for dodging bullets, said that the sharpshooters “couldn’t hit an elephant at this distance.” Sedgwick was KIA when a bullet entered his brain. Sedgwick was the highest ranking union officer to die during the Civil War.

STOP 2 UPTON’S ROAD – Grant spent May 10 probing the confederate defenses. COL Emory Upton led the assault down the woods road that you can walk. Upton deployed 5,000 men into 4 lines of battle facing the confederates. At 6pm the charged out of the woods at a slight bulge known as Dole’s Salient. They captured 2 guns and 1,000 prisoners. However, there was no union support to the attack. When the confederates counterattacked Upton had to fall back. It gave Grant an idea . . . . if 5,000 men could make a hole in the line, what would 20,000 do?. ‘A brigade today, a corps tomorrow.’

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Spotsylvania Courthouse Stop 2 Upton's Road

STOP 3 BLOODY ANGLE – On May 12, Grant attacked the center of the Confederate line – a half mile bulge that had been named the Muleshoe Salient. MG Winfield Scott’s II Corps led the assault. The Federals captured 3,000 prisoners and 20 cannon.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Spotsylvania Courthouse Stop 3 The Bloody Angle

Lee counterattacked. Grant added the VI Corps to support Hancock. Fighting was focused on a slight turn in the line called the Bloody Angle. For more than 20 hours Federal and Confederate soldiers fought nose to nose. After dark Lee, withdrew to a new line

STOP 4 HARRISON HOUSE SITE - When the Federals overran the Muleshoe on May 12, MG John B. Gordon formed his Confederate Division around the Harrison House and prepared to retake the salient.

As Gordon was about to lead the attack, General Lee appeared ready to join the attack. As at the Tapp Farm in the Wilderness, Lee’s horse was forcibly led to the rear.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Spotsylvania Courthouse Stop 4 Harrison House Site
"Lee to the rear"

By noon, Lee realized he did not have enough men to retake the Muleshoe. While a portion of his army fought at the Bloody Angle, others built a new line of earthworks across the base of the salient. Grant attacked this new line on May 18^th but found it too strong to take. The home of Henry Harrison no longer stands.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864
Spotsylvania Courthouse
Stop 5 McCoull House Site
Gordon's Counter attack

STOP 5 MCCOULL HOUSE SITE - The farmhouse of Neil McCoull stood in the center of the Muleshoe Salient. MG Edward “Allegheny” Johnson made the McCoull house his Division HQ during the battle. Johnson was ready for the Federal attack of May 12, but damp gunpowder and lack of artillery made the position untenable. Johnson and 3,000 of his men were captured.

STOP 6 EAST FACE OF SALIENT – Grant’s attacks on May 12 cut Lee’s army in two; Lee had no choice but to try to retake the lost works. MG John Gordon’s division swept forward from the Harrison House and was able to retake the works on the eastern part of the salient, while other troops continued to fight at the Bloody Angle. Lee realized that he did not have enough men to retake the entire salient.

STOP 7 HETH’S SALIENT – By mid day on May 12 fighting had reached a deadlock. Lee and Grant looked for other opportunities and by coincidence both chose the eastern face of the salient held by LTG Jubal Early’s confederate troops. Grant ordered MG Ambrose Burnside to attack this area with his IX Corps, while Lee ordered Early to send a couple of brigades to attack Burnside’s flank. The troops collided in the woods. Confused both sides lost about 1,000 men.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864 - Spotsylvania Courthouse Stop 7 Heth's Salient

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN 1864
Spotsylvania Courthouse
Stop 8 Fredericksburg Road

STOP 8 FREDERICKSBURG ROAD – The Fredericksburg Road from Belle Plain served as Grant’s main supply route. On May 19^th, Lee ordered LTG Richard S. Ewell to make a reconnaissance in force toward the Fredericksburg Road in an attempt to locate Grant’s left flank. Early’s troops ran into several heavy artillery regiments from the Washington defenses now serving as infantry. The artillerymen withstood Early’s attacks losing 1,500 men. However, outnumbered and in an exposed position Early withdrew after dark.

Two weeks of fighting had failed to bring Grant victory. He continued south toward Richmond, leaving behind 18,000 casualties. Lee lost about 13,000 men. The Overland Campaign, already the bloodiest of the war, would go on.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN – NORTH ANNA BATTLEFIELD

This is a Hanover County Park – much of the land has been purchased with donations. I’ve been here before with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable. There is a trail that follows the Confederate line of earthworks with 5 interpretive markers.

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN - North Anna Battlefield May 24, 2864

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
North Anna Battlefield
May 24, 2864

OVERLAND CAMPAIGN
North Anna Battlefield
May 24, 2864
order of battle

The remains of the earthworks are well defined. The interpretive markers explain the battle pretty well. However, the entire area is wooded. Some, maybe much of the park border, follows the earthworks. Chances of the woods being cleared appear slim. The North Anna River and its associated crossings are far below the confederate earthworks – difficult if not impossible to see.

TUESDAY November 11, 2014

WEATHER: 36 at 4:30 am 46 in the trailer – some clouds – mostly sunny high got to 70

TRAVEL: Drove to Highland Golf Club about 6 miles from here – private club – oh well maybe another day

VETERANS DAY – a government holiday I took the day off . . . catch-up

Read 2 short books/pamphlets and updated photos and the blog. Still 300+ photos to label.

WEDNESDAY November 12, 2014

The Cardinal Golf Club
Fort Lee, VA

WEATHER: 51 at 4 am, a pleasant day – it got up to 74.

TRAVEL: to Fort Lee, and start the route of Lee’s Retreat

G O L F The Cardinal Golf Course – Fort Lee, VA I played 9 holes with cart cost around $23.00, shot a 54 with 23 putts – had a few bad holes – one took me 4 shots to get out of the sand but I did not lose a ball.

There was enough time left in the day to drive a bit of Lee’s Retreat. My sources for the narrative and the tour are a book by Chris Caulkens entitled “Lee’s Retreat: A History and Field Guide.” A CD accompanies the guide. The numbers are mile markers from the guide; stop numbers that follow are from the CD. Each stop number had an interpretive marker. Additionally, I used Virginia Civil War Trails “Lee’s Retreat: The Final Campaigns.”

Fort Whitworth

Fort Whitworth
or what remains of it

Lees Retreat 4.2 STOP 2 I located Fort Whitworth. There is a marker, in bad condition. Whitworth is a park run up and down what is left of it to your heart’s content. The VA state marker is about ½ mile away. Confederate Forts Whitworth and Gregg guarded the western approaches to Petersburg and the Boydton Plank Road corridor. On April 2, 1865 Union troops attacked these forts, resulting in bloody fighting. They held long enough for Lee to make arrangements for evacuation of Petersburg. Fort Gregg is Stop 4 on the PNB Western Front Driving Tour.

Battle of Sutherland Station

Lees Retreat 23.9 STOP 3 2 APR 1865 Sutherland’s and Fork Inn, the Battle of Sutherland Station – Early afternoon of April 2 (about the time of the assaults on Forts Whitworth and Gregg six miles to the east) Union troops attacked Confederates making a stand here at the South Side Railroad. After two unsuccessful frontal assaults, Union forces broke the line with a flank attack and cut Lee’s supply line into Petersburg. Evacuation of the city began that evening.

Namozine Church

Lees Retreat 34.3 STOP 4 3 APR 1865 Namozine Church Battlefield – this was the site of a southern rear guard cavalry action against the pursuing Union cavalry. The Namozine Presbyterian Church was the location of the 5^th NC Cavalry. After a series of attacks and counterattacks , the confederate line was broken and about 350 men, 100 horses and 1 gun were captured. Tom Custer (George’s brother) received a Medal of Honor for capturing the flag of the 2^nd NC Cavalry.

Lees Retreat 40.5 Mannboro – following the early morning fight at Namozine Church on April 3 the Confedrate column split and followed numerous roads through the Amelia County countryside. The following from LT. J.F.J. Caldwell, a South Carolinian, wrote: “There was an attempt to organize the various commands, to no avail. The Confederacy was as ‘gone up,’ and every man felt it his duty, as well as his privilege, to save himself. There was no insubordination . . . but the whole left of the army . . . struggled along without strength, and almost without thought. . . . . There was no many words spoken. An indescribable sadness weighed upon us. The men were very gentle toward each other.”

THURSDAY November 13, 2014

WEATHER: High of 45 today. Cloudy all day. It started raining around 7pm.

TRAVEL: Back to Amelia Courthouse and following Lee’s Retreat to Appomattox.

Got a flu shot at Walgreen’s today, zero cost, covered by Medicare.

Amelia Courthouse

Amelia Courthouse
that statue of a
Confederate soldier -
must be a hundred of these in
every town square throughout
the South

Lees Retreat 54.8 STOP 5 4 APR 1865 Amelia Courthouse and Lampkin’s Batttery coehorn mortar The current courthouse was built in 1924. Lee had hoped to find 350,000 rations on a supply train supposedly sent from Richmond to Amelia Station.

When Lee’s army arrived they found only cars of ammunition, caissons, and harness. Lee issued a proclamation to the citizens of Amelia County requesting any surplus provisions available. At the same time he ordered 200,000 rations to be sent up the railroad from Danville. “The Confederate army remained hungry and was forced to finally move on.”

Jetersville

Lees Retreat 62.1 STOP 6 5 APR 1865 Jetersville Presbyterian Church A surviving original structure, similar in design to Namozine Church.

Lees Retreat 62.2 Jetersville The Federals built a trench line – four miles in length.

Lees Retreat 65.7 STOP 7 6 APR 1865 Amelia Springs A resort once stood here. On April 6^th Lee found his Commissary General, Issac St. John, who said 80,000 rations would be waiting at Farmville.

Amelia Springs - Black Confederate troops

Deatonville

Lees Retreat 68.9 STOP 8 6 APR 1865 Deatonville On the afternoon of April 6^th lead elements of Union infantry caught up with Gordon’s rearguard here. Throwing up temporary breastworks, the Confederates soon were attacked six Union regiments. Gordon later wrote, “on and on, hour after hour, from hilltop to hilltop, retreating, making one almost continuous shifting battle.”

Holt's Corner

Lees Retreat 72.6 STOP 9 6 APR 1865 Holt’s Corner This is the intersection of the Deatonville and Jamestown Roads (Routes 617 & 618). It was here that Gordon’s Second Corps and the main Confederate wagon train turned right to follow a more northerly route from the rest of Lee’s army. Longstreet, as the lead element, with Lee accompanying, continued forward to Rice’s Depot. A brigade of Union cavalry attacked Anderson’s infantry here. The Confederates were forced to stop and dig in. The delay caused a gap in the Southern column.

Hillsman House
Battle of Sailor's Creek
Visitor Center

Hillman House
Battle of Sailor's Creek
view from the Confederate
position

Lees Retreat 73.5 STOP 10 6 APR 1865 Hillsman House The area around this house was used as a staging are for Union attacks against the Confederate positions across Sailor’s Creek. By late afternoon April 6^th nearly 7,000 from Wright’s Corps prepared to attack Ewell’s 5,200 Confederates. Near the Hillman House nearly 20 pieces of Federal Artillery supported a Union attack. The Confederate defensive position was pummeled by Union artillery, the Confederates had no artillery with which to reply. Federal numbers ruled . . . 3,400 Confederates were captured here

Sailors Creek is a State Park. There is an excellent Visitor Center/Museum. The staff here is very knowledgeable and helpful. There goal to to restore the battlefield to the way it looked in 1865.

Hillsman House
Battle of Sailor's Creek

Hinsman House
Battle of Sailor's Creek

Lockett House

Marshall's
Crossroads

Lees Retreat 74.8 STOP 11 6 APR 1865 Marshalls Crossroads

Custer’s command attacked Anderson’s line up this road. More than 2,500 Confederates were captured here.

Lees Retreat STOP 12 6 APR 1865 Lockett House

The Battle of Lockett Farm began here. The house of James Lockett was called “Piney Grove.”

Double Bridges

Lees Retreat 80.6 STOP 13 6 APR 1865 Double Bridges

The remains of two concrete single lane bridges originally crossed the beds of Little Sailor’s Creek and Big Sailor’s Creek . They come together here to form Sailor’s Creek which flows into the Appomattox River. Gordon’s wagons attempted to cross here and the “broken down” bridge caused many of the wagons to bog down.

Rice's Depot

Lees Retreat 85.9 STOP 14 6 APR 1865 Rice’s Depot While Lee was viewing the situation at Sailor’s Creek, Longstreet received word that a Federal column was advancing up from Burkeville Junction. The meet the threat he entrenched, covering roads to Rice’s Depot. When the Federals arrived, skirmishers came forward but darkness prevented full scale fighting.

Lee’s Retreat 87.9 STOP 15 6 APR 1865 Sandy River, Cavalry Battle at High Bridge - This cavalry battle was fought on April 6^th before Sailor’s Creek and before Lee & Longstreet had arrived at Rice’s Depot. The High Bridge for the railroad was built over the Appomattox River. There was a lower wagon bridge beneath the High Bridge. Completed in 1854, it crossed the 75 ft wide river over a valley nearly a mile wide. The wood truss structure was 2,400 ft long, 126ft high, and rested on 21 brick piers.

High Bridge

Farmville

Lees Retreat 92.7 F STOP 16 7 APR 1865 Farmville River Crossings

The Confederates destroyed the wagon and railroad bridges across the Appomattox River here in the hopes of delaying the Union pursuit.

Lees Retreat 95.8 STOP 17 7 APR 1865 Cumberland Church It is likely that Lee had his HQ here on the night of April 7^th. Lee was in or near the church when he received Grant’s first message, suggesting surrender. Lee showed the note to Longstreet, who replied, “Not yet.”

Cumberland Church

Lees Retreat 95.8 STOP 18 7 APR 1865 High Bridge Somehow I missed this stop.

High Bridge

Clifton House

Lees Retreat 114.7 STOP 19 8 APR 1865 Clifton

Grant spent the night of April 8^th in “Clifton.” Meade’s camp was a few hundred yards from the house. Grant received a message from Lee here, not quite offering a surrender but stating: “The restoration of peace should be the sole object of all.” Lee asked for a meeting.

Lees Retreat 118.3 STOP 20 8 APR 1865 New Store

The Confederate army had used different roads from Farmville – they converged here.

Lees Retreat 134.5 STOP 21 9 APR 1865 Lee’s Rearguard, New Hope Church Longstreet’s Corps held the Confederate rear and the advance picket trenches at this point.

New Hope Church

Lees Retreat 136.7 8-21 APR 1865 Lees Headquarters Site

This is part of the Appomattox NHP. There was nothing left for Lee to do except surrender.

138 APPOMATTOX COURTHOUSE NHP – Appomattox, VA

Appomattox Court House

Appomattox Village is restored, as is the McLean House where Lee surrendered to Grant. There is an entrance fee. There are plenty of trails and waysides. I have been here with The Chicago Civil War Roundtable and there is still plenty of the park that I have not explored. Unfortunately, I arrived here late in the day after hitting almost all the stops on the Lee’s Retreat Civil War Trails. If you come here just to visit Appomattox, you can spend a lot of time in the park alone.

Appomattox Court House

Appomattox Court House
McLean House
there the surrender was signed

Appomattox Court House

After 1865, the Village of Appomattox became a backwater. There was no battle here, soldiers did not erect monuments or return here. Appomattox Station to the west grew because of the railroad. The village and its buildings began to crumble into dust. In 1930, Congress passed a bill that provided for building a monument at the site of the old courthouse. The monument was never built but the idea of memorializing the event stayed alive. In 1934-35, the National Park Service suggested that the entire village be restored. Legislation creating the park as a National Historical Monument was signed in 1935. Work began on acquiring land, searching records and the project resumed at the end of WW II. In 1954, the area was re-designated a National Historical Park. Today the village looks much the way it did in April 1865.

FRIDAY November 14, 2014

WEATHER: 37 at 4:30 am, 43 in the trailer.

TRAVEL: Pocahontas State Park to Yorktown

I’m going to visit relatives and friends this weekend – Wisconsin Virginians and North Carolinians. I was concerned about leaving trailer- it was forecast to freeze – I disconnected the water – set the thermostat as low as it could go (60) and locked her up for 2 nights. Weekend temps stayed between 30 – 45.

139 COLONIAL NHP – Jamestown, VA

I’ve been here twice before . . . so the 3^rd time is a charm . . . however I still spent 5 hours on the field and in the Visitor Center. I bought a drive tour CD and travelled the extra tour of the colonial encampments. It was leisurely, an easy drive through the woods – its fall – in summer you may be pushed by people behind you who just want to get through. I took my time and read all the markers - even came across a few Civil War markers. There is a National Cemetery in the Park.

I am not going to document the stop by stop driving tour but it is worth the visit. Plan a half to a full day.

Colonial - Siege of Yorktown - Second Colonial Line

The Siege of /Battle of Yorktown in 1781 was a decisive victory for the combined American forces led by George Washington and French forces led by General Comte de Rochambeau and French naval commander Admiral de Grasse over the British Army led by General Lord Cornwallis. With Cornwallis’s surrender, negotiations between Great Britain and the United States began to end the conflict with the Treaty of Paris in 1783.

Appomattox Court House

In May of 1781 Cornwallis moved his army from North Carolina into Virginia. He believed if Virginia could be subdued it would cut the colonial resistance in half. He received an order from his superior Sir Henry Clinton, located in New York, to establish a base somewhere in the lower Chesapeake Bay area. The Marquis de Lafayette shadowed Cornwallis with a small American force.

As Cornwallis began to fortify the town and Gloucester Point across the York River a large French fleet under Admiral de Grasse sailed from the West Indies to blockade Cornwallis army by sea.

Washington was persuaded by Rochambeau to move on Cornwallis with a deception plan to keep Clinton in New York. The French fleet won a victory when a British fleet withdrew from Chesapeake in early September.

On September 28, 1781 the French and Continental armies and a French fleet began surrounding Cornwallis by land and sea at Yorktown. By October 9^th all guns were in place and on October 14^th Washington began the attack. Washington’s army numbered 17,000 vs. Cornwallis’s 8,300.

Colonial - Redoubts 9 & 10 - Attack led by LTC Alexander Hamilton

After the capture of Redoubts 9 and 10 on October 14^th a second siege line was completed bringing the American guns within 400 yards of the British defenses.

On the morning of October 17^th a drummer and officer waving a white handkerchief appeared. The bombardment stopped and negotiations began for the surrender of the British army.

There is plenty to see in Yorktown itself . . . . . I did not visit here but did stop by the Yorktown Pub for a beverage – been there before.

SATURDAY November 15, 2014

WEATHER: sunny and in the mid 40’s

TRAVEL: Virginia Beach

I was able to do laundry in the morning. A fine afternoon dinner celebration – with some college football - and even harp playing in the background during conversation. It was a very enjoyable day.

SUNDAY November 16, 2014

WEATHER: High of 50.

TRAVEL: Yorktown to Fort Monroe to Pocahontas State Park.

8:30 MASS at St. Joan of Arc Parish in Yorktown, VA. The church is fairly new, concrete and wood. The stations of the cross are very modern, originals – looked like oil on canvas. The priest was energetic – 24 years out of the seminary – he must be 50+/-. He is also blind – you really couldn’t tell except that I was told he was and occasionally is guided by a parishioner. Energetic - - - he indicated that everyone in the parish will receive a copy a gift on the Sunday after Christmas – a paperback – The Four of Being Catholic.

140 FORT MONROE NATIONAL MONUMENT– Fort Monroe, VA

Fort Monroe

Fort Monroe - painting

Fort Monroe

The largest stone fort ever built in the United States it served as a strategic location in the defense of Hampton Roads and the Chesapeake Bay. Under construction from 1819-1834 it was named after President James Monroe. LT Robert E. Lee was posted to Fort Monroe in 1831 to oversee construction.

At the outbreak of the Civil War, MG Benjamin Butler was the senior officer at the fort. Three slaves escaped and sought refuge in the fort. As required by the 1850 Fugitive Slave Act they should have been returned. Butler, a lawyer by training, reasoned that since Virginia had seceded the Act did not apply and the enslaved should be considered “contraband” of war. Like seized goods these men would not be returned to bondage.

After the war Confederate President Jefferson Davis was imprisoned in a cell at the Fort. The Casemate Museum has been expanded since I visited here in 1989-90. Additionally, the Fort is no longer an active duty post. However, the museum is worth a least an hour’s visit – you can also take a walking tour of the old fort. Plan 2 hours.

First Packer game I’ve been able to see on TV this season, a 4:30 EST game, on FOX – looks like Aikman and Buck have stopped shaving on weekends.

PACK vs. EAGLES at Lambeau. It’s snowing in Green Bay. After a TD and a score of 39-6 in the 3^rd quarter FOX switched to the Detroit-Cardinals game – I could care less – but glad the Lions were beat – PACK 53 - EAGLES 20 FINAL.

MONDAY November 17, 2014

WEATHER: 43 at 4:30 am, 53 in the trailer – cloudy – rained last night and periods of rain all day – high of 57 .

TRAVEL: only local near Pocahontas State Park.

Updated the blog and posted pictures. Labeled hundreds of digital photos.

TUESDAY November 18, 2014

WEATHER: clear and cold today 39 at 4 am; 34 at 6:30 am, 26 when I left the park around 8:30 am. High today was 45 when I got to the NC Outer Banks.

TRAVEL: Pocahontas State Park to Swansboro, NC.

I checked in at North River Campground, Shawsboro, NC– of course I was the only arrival here today. I set up and went back to get the WIFI code and to ask for the Good Sam discount. Unfortunately, I did not originally ask for the discount so there was nothing they could do about it. Really? Unbelievable! Customer Service at this place – BOTTOM OF THE HEAP. Unfortunate. Other than that useless answer – this isn’t a bad place. I’m not coming here again – and it is not recommended. I think I’ll buy propane and chemicals at another RV place. Nothing is close to this place – a real end of the road. There are no other RV places – I bought the propane and chemicals. At least the WIFI works and there is no whine of interstate traffic.

141 WRIGHT BROTHERS NATIONAL MEMORIAL - Kill Devil Hills, NC

Wright Brothers
National Memorial

Wright Brothers
Kill Devil Hill

A nice Visitor Center – a small museum and gift shop – the Volunteer at the desk was so involved with conversation – he never acknowledged me. When I returned the the desk to ask for a park brochure still ignored me. Maybe when it gets cold here in NC – hospitality climbs under the covers.

The museum/auditorium is home to replicas of the glider and flyer. It is encircled on two sides by portraits of all the aviation pioneers – viewing and reading all the names is a course in aviation history by itself. Plan about 45 minutes in the Visitor Center (unless you’re lucky enough to get there for a ranger program) and another 45-60 minutes on the grounds.

There is a 60 foot monument atop Kill Devil Hill honoring the Wright Brothers and marks the site of hundreds of glider flights that preceded the first powered flight.

Did the Wright Brothers first flight take place at Kitty Hawk or Kill Devil Hills? Either answer is correct. There is a series of four hills called Kill Devil Hills (huge sand piles) – this is where the brothers set up shop. Kitty Hawk was the closest town – a hundred years ago. No strip malls, condos, restaurants, bars, motels and souvenir shops all along a four lane paved highway.

Wright Brothers Natinal Memorial

The buildings are reconstructed. They consist of a hanger used for the 1903 flyer and the Quarters/Workshop.

A granite boulder marks the spot where the first airplane left the ground. On December 17, 1903.

Wright Brothers National Memorial
model of the 'flyer'

I stopped at Dayton Aviation Heritage on April 22, 2014. This was the site of the Wright Brother’s Bicycle Shop, their home.

The Wright Brothers gathered information, method and inspiration from a number of predecessors. George Cayley (1773-1857 – father of aerodynamics), Alphonse Penaud (1850-80 –built a rubber band powered “planoplane” flew for 131’), Otto Lilienthal (1848-96 – first true glider pilot), and Octave Chanute (1832-1910 – gathered aeronautical knowledge – encouraged the Wrights who used his biplane glider design). BOTTOM LINE: The Wright’s figured they had as much chance as anyone to fly.

Wright Brothers National Memorial - the camp

Wright Brothers
model of the 'glider'

1899 The Wright’s refined the solutions to lift and propulsions by watching birds fly and hit upon the idea of warping the wings – a forerunner of ailerons.

1900 They built a 17 ft glider and went to Kitty Hawk to experiment. The glider flew like a kite for 10 seconds.

1901 To overcome lift problems they increased the camber of the glider and lengthened the wingspan to 22 ft. However, lift was only one-third of what Lilienthal predicted. The Wright’s made changes and realized that their work was based on faulty data. They almost quit. Instead they built a wind tunnel and produced their own data.

1902 The Glider had 32 ft wings and vertical tails, the pilot moved a hip cradle to warp the wings. Orville suggested a movable tail.

1903 The Wright’s saw that control and stability were related and that a plane turned by rolling. They experimented with 600 more glides.

Wright Brothers National Memorial

Now the Wrights had to power the aircraft. A gasoline had recently been invented. They built their own lightweight engine. Using air tunnel data they also built a propeller. At Kill Devil the Wrights mounted the engine on a

new 40 ft 605 lb glider.

Wright Brothers National Memorial

December 14 - Wilbur won a coin toss but lost the chance to be the first to fly when he over steered after leaving the launching rail. The Flyer climbed too steeply, stalled and dove into the sand.

December 17 – There was a 27 mph head wind which they knew would slow their ground speed because they predicted the cruising speed to be 30-35 mph. Orville finessed the controls and kept aloft for 120 ft. They took turns flying three more times that day. The last flight was 852 feet for 59 seconds. The rest is history.

WEDNESDAY November 19, 2014

WEATHER: 33 outside at midnight – I disconnected the water and turned the heat on. It was 39 in the trailer. The furnace heats it to 60 degrees – the lowest I can set it at. I’m still concerned about pipes and fittings freezing. When it’s cold I must sleep better – got up at 6 am and it was 25 outside. A big pond behind me but no ice – yet.

TRAVEL: I put on over 200 miles today. I should have parked my trailer at some campsite – even a KOA on the Outer Banks but I think I was afraid of the fall hurricanes and the wind/water. It’s a long drive and there is only one way to travel – travel on and between the barrier islands to the end and then back again. One more island to visit and the only way to get there is the same route I did today plus a ferry. Literally the end of the road.

142 FORT RALIEGH NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE - Manteo, NC

Roanoke Island has been the scene of historical drama spanning three centuries.

Fort Raleigh National Historic Sit

Algonquians, European settlers, Civil War soldiers, and African Americans have all played their parts.

THE LOST COLONY

Sir Walter Raleigh, with a charter from Queen Elizabeth, sponsored the first sustained exploration and settlement of the coast of North America. Raleigh’s two vessels arrived off the North Carolina coast in 1584 – a Reconnaissance.

In 1585 Raleigh dispatched 7 ships with 600 people to Roanoke Island, the land he had named “Virginia.” Sir Richard Grenville and 107 soldiers/colonists built an earthen fort. Greenville left the fort to go on an exploration. The colonists increasingly depended on the Algonquin’s for food. Indians began to die from European disease. Grenville’s second in command killed the Algonquin chief and when Sir Francis Drake’s raiding fleet stopped by, the colonists left with him. When Grenville returned, he left 15 men to maintain the foothold in America.

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site

In 1587 another voyage, led by John White, with 117 colonists failed to find the 15 men left behind. They repaired the fort. A colonist was killed by the Indians. The colonists attacked a nearby Indian village before realizing it was a friendly group. White went back to England for relief. The colonists said that if they left they would carve a message saying where they had gone.

Due to Queen Elizabeth commandeering every English ship to fight the Spanish Armada in 1588, White did not return until 1590 to only find the letters CROATOAN carved into a post and CRO carved into a tree. This was Hatteras Island – when the ships tried to reach Hatteras a hurricane forced their return to England. The fate of the colonists is a mystery.

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site

Virginia Dare was the granddaughter of John White. The first English child born in the New World. White’s daughter and her husband were among the lost colonists.

During the CIVIL WAR, in 1862, BG Ambrose Burnside landed with 13,000 troops overwhelming the confederate defenders.

As word spread to runaways and slaves “that on Roanoke Island, you will find safe haven,” hundreds of refugees established a Freedman’s Colony headed by Army Chaplain Horace James. By 1865 almost 3,500 freedmen lived in 560 log dwellings along with a hospital, church, school, and a sawmill. The army decommissioned the colony in 1867.

143 CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE – Cape Hatteras, NC

Cape Hatteras lies on the ocean’s edge. The barrier islands are ruled by the sea.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse

Treacherous waters off the coast of the Outer Banks bear the name “Graveyard of the Atlantic.” Over 600 ships are wrecked here, victim of shallow shoals, storms and war.

Cape Hatteras
Visitor Center

Cape Hatteras National Seashore stretches north to south across three islands, Bodie, Hatteras, and Ocracoke, NC.

There is a lighthouse and Visitor Center on Bodie Island. There is a fee if you want to walk up any of the lighthouses. All are now closed for the season. Bodie (pronounced body) is just south of Nags Head.

Cape Hatteras
Bodie Island Lighhouse

Cape Hatteras
Pea Island National WIldlife Refuge

Today’s Bodie Island Lighthouse was completed in 1872. You cannot climb the lighthouse.

I also visited the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The Visitor Center and book store are closed for renovation. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, also known as America’s Lighthouse, is the tallest brick beacon in the country standing at 208 feet. The familiar black and white spiral-striped landmark serves as a warning to mariners of submerged and shifting sandbars which extend almost 20 miles off Cape Hatteras into the Atlantic Ocean. They are known as the Diamond Shoals. There is a fee to climb the lighthouse – closed now for the season..

The drive along North Carolina Highway 12 is pleasant but I bet it is madness in the summer. Right now the place looks like the Dells in winter – but here there are no water parks to keep the tourists coming. So for now it is peaceful and a lot of the shops are closed for the season.

Cape Hatteras - Pea Island Seashore

The route is marked with Mile Markers like the Blue Ridge Parkway. I also stopped at the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. There was a Volunteer on duty. There is a walking trail, viewing telescopes for birding and a very nice book store/gift shop. Much of the drive along the road is between sand dunes – you can walk on these dunes to your heart’s content.

THURSDAY: November 20, 2014

WEATHER: cold again last night got to freezing – definite frost on the windows of the truck to be scraped - warmed to 50’s today. I don’t have a ice scraper in the truck but a credit card works fine..

TRAVEL: North River Campground to Ocracoke Island – part of Cape Hatteras National Seashore. A long drive – and another ferry. Left at 7 caught the ferry and 10 am and returned by ferry at 1:30 – then drove back. The drive down is still enjoyable – about 80 miles with sand dunes and salt marsh. Speed limit is 50 most of the way. Slows to 45 in some villages. Again in summer – it is most likely very crowded and very slow.

143 CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE – Ocracoke Island

Cape Hatteras
Oracoke Island
Ferry

Cape Hatteras
Otacoke Island
Lighthouse

The ferry is free courtesy of the state of North Carolina. Ocracoke Village is a vacation – the rest of the island is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Yes it is off-season. The island is 16 miles long.

I visited the Ocracoke Lighthouse (closed to climbing), the NP Visitor Center, the Ocracoke Preservation Society’s Miller House, the British Cemetery and had lunch at a place called Jason’s.

I imagine the wait times for the ferry are long in the summer. It is first come first serve. The ferry ride is about 40 minutes. The village itself has very few places to park. There is a large lot by the Preservation Society/Visitor Center. Get there, park and walk everywhere else in the village – all within a mile. If you visit spend a day or stay overnight. There is plenty of sand beach on both sides of the island in the National Seashore.

There is a British Cemetery because of a British ship that was torpedoed in WW II and

Cape Hatteras - Oracoke Visitor Center

several washed ashore. Pamlico Sound is off the west shore of the island. There were confederate Civil War forts at the inlets between the islands but they were defended poorly and were taken by the Federals early in the war.

Blackbeard (Edward Teach) the Pirate. During his brief career of piracy in the Carolinas, one of Blackbeard’s favorite anchorages was on the south end of Ocracoke Island, in a channel that is now called “Teach’s Hole,” borrowing from one of his pseudonyms, Edward Teach. (Blackbeard’s given name may actually have been Edward Drummond.)

Teach’s Hole Channel is a stretch of water that connects the Atlantic Ocean and Ocracoke Inlet with the deeper waters of the Pamlico Sound — the perfect deep-water anchorage in the midst of a commercial shipping lane. And the land adjacent to Teach’s Hole is high-ground, covered with thick, tall trees — the perfect place for pirates to keep a lookout for approaching vessels.

On November 22, 1718 Blackbeard battled with Lt. Robert Maynard of the Royal Navy and had his head slashed from his body by one of Maynard’s crewmen.

Blackbeard’s head was taken away from Ocracoke, tied to the bowsprit of Maynard’s sloop. But Maynard threw Blackbeard’s body overboard into the Pamlico Sound, where, as the legend goes, his headless body swam around the vessel seven times. So it goes, pirate legends.

A long drive, but still glad I made the trip. I probably will not pass this way again.

FRIDAY: November 21, 2014

WEATHER: cold again – warmed up during the day.

TRAVEL: Just updating the blog, trying to get Quicken to backup on line, filling propane tanks and thought I would golf but will until I get to Onslow Beach Campground, Camp LeJuene, NC.

Since Moore’s Creek Visitor Center is not open on Monday and it is about the same distance as from the Wilmington KOA as from LeJuene – I cancelled WILMINGTON KOA . They provided a FULL REFUND. I extended 1 day at Onslow Beach, Camp LeJuene. Now, for all I may say about KOAs, that is Customer Service. I should have stayed at the KOA on Hatteras Island – it may even have been a bit warmer at night.

SATURDAY: November 22, 2014

WEATHER: cold & clear – 29 in Coinjack, NC I’m sure its colder than that here at North River Campground. Frost is everywhere. Coinjack is 35 miles east, on the coast.

TRAVEL: North River Campground to Onslow Beach, Camp LeJuene, NC. About a 200 mile drive. Not much traffic – no interstates. Mileage is improving, probably because of slower speeds and few hills/mountains. Yes, a whopping 10 mpg pulling the trailer.

Onslow Beach

ONSLOW BEACH – Camp LeJuene, NC. I’m impressed. This place is a find. Of course, it is off season, but it is located on the beach of the Atlantic Ocean. There are RV sites, tent sites, and lodges to rent. Special Beach houses for 05 and above and of course E9 – but the E9 is not in the same area as the commissioned officers.

Looks really kid friendly – probably a lot of use by Marine families during the summer. Plenty of beach. A small PX here has a full aisle of beach toys and an aisle for surf fishing stuff. This is a place to enjoy and relax. If you’re in a lodge the beach is just over the dune. No pool, but there is the whole ocean and lots of beach. Most likely there is a pool on base. Better than Fort Story, VA. And they do have WIFI here.

Onslow Beach - Paradise Point Club House

G O L F – Paradise Point Golf Course, Camp LeJuene, NC Again I’m impressed. This is the best military course I’ve played all year and that includes West Point and Annapolis. Of course, it I mostly level, built on sand but plenty of trees and I thought a nice design. Someone had given thought to this and named each hole. Well kept and managed. Actually, I believe there are 2 courses here. One was closed.

Onslow Beach
Paradise Point GC

The Club House, again most impressive of all military I’ve been at. Except for perhaps the course in Hawaii – but that was a USMC base also – and all this time I thought the AF was supposed to have the corner on the golf course market. (Maybe they still do on officer quarters).

I golfed in a short sleeved shirt and sweater vest – probably 60 – sunny and clear. My score was 49 with 2 lost balls, and only 16 putts – but not a single par. For off season, the course is in good shape. I would call the greens and fairway ‘natty” because of the type of grass here.

SUNDAY: November 23, 2014

Onslow Beach
Surf's Up

WEATHER: My smart phone says it’s 43 at North Topsail Beach, NC. At 0430, 49 in the trailer. Surf’s Up! I can hear it. Cloudy. Started to rain at 0630 and its warming up. It’s supposed to get to 65

TRAVEL: Camp LeJuene to Moore’s Creek National Battlefield and back – about 55 miles each way. Travel at Camp LeJuene is like most military posts. Confusing, until you figure out the madness of the road system.

St. Francis Xavier
USMC
Camp LeJuene

0800 MASS St. Francis Xavier, Camp LeJuene, NC Feast of Christ the King. This priest Chaplain/Marine was not that exciting – more Marine I think than chaplain. They are getting another/new Chaplain/priest – he’s Navy. The two of them appear to be opposites. Refreshing to see young families, parents with their sons and their son’s girlfriend. Chapel was probably built after WW II. All the stained glass windows have Semper Fidelis USMC on the top and a WW II Marine Division or Amphibious Force emblem – one is even dedicated to Navy Personnel. Warrior saints are the subjects of the glass. Bottom indicates ‘in memory of WW II who lost their lives’ in the unit.

I JUMPED FROM 144 in the COUNT TO 146 because somehow I missed FIRE ISLAND NS in the count. I visited FIRE ISLAND on September 17, 2014. I may or may not, depending on time, go back and revise the numbering.

ALL NUMBERING REVISED IF NECESSARY JUNE 2020

146 MOORE’S CREEK NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD– Currie, NC

Moore's Creek

The Visitor Center is closed Monday and Tuesday, therefore I’m here on a Sunday. I was the first and probably the only visitor they will get today. Only 3 visited yesterday.

This is a nice place to visit, even in the rain. A 10 minute film about the Battle at Moore’s Creek, small museum about the battle and the Revolutionary War timeline and a small bookstore.

The Battle of Moore’s Creek was fought on February 27, 1776 between loyalists and patriots. Actually, the first American Civil War. It is an 87 acre park. The patriots defeated a larger force of loyalists marching toward a rendezvous with a British naval squadron. The battle effectively ended royal authority in NC and stalled a full scale British invasion of the south.

North Carolina was as much a hotbed of revolution as Massachusetts. News of the Lexington-Concord fight in April 1775 further eroded royal authority in the colony. Governor Josiah Martin abandoned the capital of New Bern and fled to Fort Johnson on the lower Cape Fear River. However, by mid July, militia forced him to find refuge on the British warship Cruizer.

Moore's Creek - Decisive Victory for the Patriots

Moore's Creek

The governor laid plans to retake Carolina but could only raise 1,600 Loyalist soldiers. The patriots had not been idle and raised two battalions of the Continental Line and two regiments of minutemen and militia.

Moore's Creek
swamp

Moore's Creek

Loyalists planned to advance along the Cape Fear River to the coast in order to get provisions, arms and join the British troops. The Loyalist force was under the command of an aged Gen Donald MacDonald. The patriots countered MacDonald’s move by taking possession of the bridge at Moore’s Creek, 20 miles above Wilmington.

The patriots at Moore’s Creek consisted of forces under COL James Moore, COL Alexander Lillington (150), and militia under COL Richard Caswell (850). MacDonald had 1,600 men, but fewer than 800 muskets. MacDonald sent an ultimatum of surrender and a scout to Moore. Moore declined to surrender. The scout thought Moore vulnerable. The scout did not know about the earthworks and forces of Lillington and Caswell.

The battle was over in 3 minutes. The Loyalists had to cross a bridge with planking removed. Trapped and within 30 paces of the earthworks, they suffered 30 KIA, 40 WIA and many were later captured. Only one patriot was KIA.

The patriot victory emboldened the North Carolina delegation to vote for independence and discouraged loyalist sentiment in the Carolinas.

There is a short trail that is well worth the walk. Plan about 1 ½ hours even in the rain.

MONDAY: November 24, 2014

WEATHER: it got warm during the night – 68 by 2330 along with a heavy thunderstorm – it lasted an hour. First thunderstorm since I was in Vermont. Windy enough to rock the trailer. Surf is really up now – a good steady roar. Some rain or drizzle all day, cloudy. High of maybe 70.

TRAVEL: Camp LeJuene to Cape Lookout National Seashore to Fort Macon State Park back to Onslow Beach..

Cape Lookout
National Seashore

147 CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE, NC

Only two sections of Cape Lookout National Seashore can be reached by car (without taking a vehicle ferry): the Harkers Island Visitor Center and Park Headquarters and the Beaufort Visitor Information Center. There are no roads on the islands so I don’t think there is much use of vehicles.

Cape Lookout National Seashore - map

The Harkers Island Visitor Center is located on the eastern end of Harkers Island, approximately 20 mi (30 km) east of Beaufort, NC and 30 mi south of the Cedar Island terminus of the North Carolina State Ferry route from Ocracoke Island to Cedar Island. This visitor center is one of two Ferry Gateways to the Cape Lookout Light Station and Shackleford Banks. One of only two areas you can drive to by car.

The ferries weren’t working today because of the fog and wind. Don’t think I would have visited because of time. But if you visit, plan a day. You can stay on the island – check into the cottage rentals – it doesn’t appear they are always full.

There are wild horses on Shackleford Island. Cape Lookout is amazing because of all the barrier islands, it is untouched by man. It will continue to exist while others . . . . .

I couldn’t see the Cape Lookout Lighthouse – it was 3 miles away covered in fog.

Kind of like much of Cape Hatteras and Ocracoke – it’s off season – not much going on – hiking, birding, shopping, walking, lot of sand, wind and waves – but entirely pristine – except for the NPS – like Isle Royale.

Adjacent to Cape Lookout Visitor Center is the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum & Heritage Center. This is another gem. Funded privately, the lodge is beautiful and serves the communities of the county. They have a proud history of boat building and fishing. They also have a short trail

Fort Macon State Park Atlantic Beach, NC

This was a gem – a rare find – if you are ever down this way be sure to visit. Of course, this is off season but the facility exceeded any expectation I could have imagined. Better than most NPS sites than I visit.

Fort Macon

Fort Macon - casemate

Fort Macon - siege mortars

A restored Fort Macon - a Visitor Center that is AAA+ - a beach with bath house – ample parking (maybe not in summer). There are exhibits that compliment the history of the site and the fort. There is a 25 minute movie shown every half hour that tells the history of the site. There are knowledgeable volunteers and the Fort itself was rebuilt by the CCC. The workmanship is astonishing. Even the book store is 10x better than most NPS stores. Be sure to visit if in the area.

I only planned a short visit but spent 3 hours here and didn’t really explore the beach area or do much walking.

TUESDAY: November 25, 2014

WEATHER:

TRAVEL: Camp LeJuene Onslow Beach to Short Stay, Moncks Corner, SC. This place is run by the Navy – Weapons Department. A five hour drive of 210 miles – there are no interstates. Carolina highways 45 – 50 – 44 mph with lots of stoplights. Drove through Myrtle Beach area – most have passed 30 golf courses along the road. Probably OK to visit a golf resort and stay there – occasionally go out for dinner.

Short Stay
Rec Center
Registration

Short Stay Rec Center -villas

Short Stay Rec Center. The campgrounds are old - but for $24 a night you can get a concrete pad on the water. I’m paying $16 – the view on the water may be worth it if you spend a lot of time here – which I do not plan to. There is a warning that the campground is subject to flooding. It’s been raining for 3 days. There are some puddles. Looks like a used RV “For Sale” lot . . . . but there are plenty of golf carts here. More trailers here than at Onslow Beach. The Villas look nice. Nice beach but it is not the ocean. WIFI works. It is supposed to get down to near freezing while I’m gone – 50’s during the day - sunny . . . risk - I am not going to leave the heat on.

WEDNESDAY - SUNDAY: November 26 - 30, 2014

WEATHER: Rained all night. Leaving for home - hope it stays above freezing - - - -

TRAVEL: Drive to Charleston catch a flight home for Thanksgiving and return on Sunday.

THANKSGIVING

PACKERS 26 – PATRIOTS 21

in a 3:30 PM CST Sunday cold start at LAMBEAU .

New England scored 3 touchdowns but even with a missed field goal, the 3 pointers won the game. Now they are 9 and 3 in the NFC North.

MONDAY December 1, 2014

Weather: 52 in the trailer at 4:30 am, very pleasant sunny, got up to 72

Travel: About 33 miles from Moncks Corner to Charles Pinckney, then 8 miles to Fort Moultrie and another 10 miles to downtown Charleston for the ferry to Fort Sumter. Even the ferry ride to Fort Sumter was pleasant – little or no wind. It was a long day. Left downtown Charleston around 5pm – took 1 ½ hours to get back – traffic.

148 CHARLES PINCKNEY NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Mt. Pleasant, SC

Charles Pickney - Accomplishments

Charles Pickney - House

There really isn’t much to see here, except to commemorate that Charles Pinckney was aremarkable individual. The house here was not even built of occupied by Pinckney, but the site and surrounding land once belonged to the Pickneys. Plan about an hour for the visit.

The Pickney plantation was called the Snee Farm. Rice was the main cash crop of South Carolina.

Charles Pinckney was born on October 26, 1757. Due to the unrest in the colonies plans for college education in Britain were cancelled, he studied law with his father. His public career began in 1779 when at age 21 he represented Christ Church Parish in the SC General Assembly. When the British captured Charleston in the spring of 1780, he was imprisoned, as an officer of the SC militia. He refused to take an oath of allegiance to the King. He was sent on a prison ship to Boston and freed in the north.

Charles Pickney - If you visit Charleston this is one of many places to visit

In 1784 he was selected as a SC delegate to Congress along with his cousin Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, Pierce Butler and John Rutledge. He addressed many of the weaknesses in the Article of Confederation and as the youngest member of the delegation actively debated. He labored to ratify the new Constitution.

Initially, he supported the Federalist Party – but he came to view them as the party of the rich and well born – he joined Thomas Jefferson’s new Democratic-Republican Party. The Jeffersonian’s championed the interests of rural American’s rather than the tidewater aristocracy. Jefferson appointed Pinckney as Ambassador to Spain (1801-05). After his return to the states he served in the General Assembly and a fourth and final term as governor of SC (1806-08). Pinckney is buried at St. Philip’s Episcopal Church in Charleston.

Fort Moultrie

149 FORT MOULTRIE (Sumter National Monument) , Sullivans Island, SC has a very good Visitor Center; small but effective. The gem is the fort. It is part of Fort Sumter National Monument. In my opinion, if you had a choice between Sumter and Moultrie visit Moultrie and save the $18 ferry ride. Moultrie has an interesting history. The NPS usually restores a site as it did in a particular period. Fort Moultrie is restored to represent each of the changes in it’s coastal defense history – from the palmetto log fort of 1776 to the Harbor Entrance Control Post of WW II and its closing in 1947.

Fort Moultrie has plenty of passages to explore and the best collection of coastal defense weaponry I have seen yet.

PALMETTO LOG FORT – 1776 American Revolution – In February 1776 John Rutledge returned to Charleston from a meeting of the Continental Congress. Under Rutledge’s leadership the Charleston strengthened its defenses. He placed the preparation of the city’s defenses in the hands of COL William Moultrie. Additionally, two SC rifle regiments were raised and placed under the command of Issac Hunger and Thomas Sumter.

Fort Moultrie - 1776 The Palmetto Fort

On June 8, 1776 a British fleet with 9 ‘men-of-war’ and a bomb vessel with 300 heavy guns faced COL Moultrie’s 400 men and 31 guns. On June 28^th the British attacked. Three British frigates , were able to get past the fort in an attempt to attack its weak side. The pilots, unfamiliar with the waters of Charleston harbor, ran their ships aground. The British refloated 2 of the frigates and escaped. The Americans boarded the remaining 50 gun frigate , offloaded supplies that they could and blew the ship up.

Fort Moultrie 1794-1804

Fort Moultrie

MOULTRIE II – 1798 Congress voted to improve the fort but its life was short. After 1800, appropriations were cut. An 1804 destroyed the fort.

MOULTRIE III – 1808 work began in 1808 to build a fort with 15 ft brick walls, a spacious brick magazine and 40 guns. The War of 1812 was a kind of slow motion replay of the Revolutionary War. In 1814 the Treaty of Ghent reflected the stalemate of the war, nothing resolved but fighting stopped.

As LTs and CPTs the following officers served at Fort Moultrie before the Civil War:

John F. Reynolds Braxton Bragg

Erasmus D. Keyes Thomas W. Sherman

William T. Sherman George H. Thomas

Fort Moultrie cannon row

Fort Moultrie

On the eve of the Civil War Moultrie’s armament consisted of:

19 32 lb cannon

16 24 lb cannon

10 8” Columbiads

6 howitzers for flank defense

4 bronze 6 lb cannon

1 10” mortar

PVT Edgar Allen Poe served at Fort Moultrie in 1827 before he moved to Virginia’s Fort Monroe.

View of Fort Sumter from Fort Moultrie

Seminole Indian Chief Osceola who opposed US efforts to remove his people from their lands was confined at Fort Moultrie in January 1838. He died there several weeks later.

CIVIL WAR – Fort Moultrie was occupied by the Confederates until Sherman’s army and the inevitable appeared. The Fort was abandoned on 17 Feb 1865. Improvements in artillery and ammunition made it possible to navies to wreck the stately brick forts built for coastal defense. The rifled cannon and the point detonating fuse clearly made the difference.

Fort Moultrie
CS H.L. Hunley

By 1870 Batteries offering versatility and decentralized control were considered the basic element of defense. Gun emplacements were enlarged and placed on concrete platforms. Magazines stood behind thick buffers of earth and concrete.

New weapons began to emerge around 1890; nitroglycerin-based powder was replacing black powder and steel breech loading rifle replaced the muzzle loaders. Grover Cleveland appointed Secretary of War William Endicott to head a board that would recommend improvements for America’s coastal system. The Endicott Board suggested arming 29 locations with mortars, powerful rifles and numerous batteries and mines.

Fort Moultrie 1898-1939

The “disappearing rifle” was one example of protecting gun crews during reloading. But as a child of technology, technology doomed it. By the time of WW I battleships could fire higher angles, dooming the dominance of the “disappearing rifle” and subjecting the gun crew to plunging fire instead of a flat trajectory. For protection, guns moved underground.

WW II called for anti-aircraft emplacements and installation of 12” rifles. The coast was never threatened by a German or Japanese navy and the aircraft carrier had literally made coastal defense systems obsolete. Fort Moultrie was deactivated in 1947.

Fort Moultrie

149 FORT SUMTER NATIONAL MONUMENT, Charleston, SC

FACT: Guns from the City of Charleston did not fire on Fort Sumter. They were from Fort Johnson and Fort Moultrie. Guns from Charleston could not fire the 3 ½ miles to the fort. This is a place where once you visit you do understand the field of battle.

Fort Sumter - brick work is only the 1st level
Levels two and three are gone
The black fortificationswere built to house coastal
artillery for the defense of Charleston Harbor
after the Civil War

FACT: the NPS has not restored Fort Sumter to it’s 1861 look. It bears a superficial resemblance to its original appearance. In 1861 the fort had walls 50 feet high and 3 tiers of guns. Today only the bottom tier of brickwork exists. There are few guns and much of the seaward part of the fort is what remains of Battery Issac Huger, a 1899 Spanish-American War coastal defense fortification.

A nice place to visit, but a visit to Fort Moultrie will be more rewarding. The boat ride is nice at $18 a person - - - - - maybe. The Boston Harbor Islands tour was better. Of course, a visit to Sumter is just one of those things you probably have to do.

Fort Sumter - there is a lot more Civil War History
to this place and Charleston in genreal

South Carolina had seceded from the Union, yet Union forces still occupied Fort Sumter at the entrance to Charleston Harbor. The South demanded that Fort Sumter be vacated. The Union refused. On April 12, 1861 South Carolina Confederate troops from nearby Fort Johnson fired on the fort – the start of a two day bombardment that resulted in the surrender of the fort.

The South held the fort until February 17, 1865. During that time the fort experienced one of the longest sieges in modern warfare. For almost two years, 46,000 shells estimated at more than seven million pounds of metal were fired at Fort Sumter.

Boat tours depart to Fort Sumter from two locations. Downtown Charleston at the NPS Visitor Center located at Liberty Square or from the Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum.

The British returned to Charleston in February 1780 and captured Fort Moultrie. There were 14,000 British soldiers and 400 American defenders. The British evacuated Charleston in December 1783. The Treaty of Paris, ending the war, was signed on April 19, 1784.

Fort Sumter - inside view

TUESDAY December 2, 2014

Weather: 52 in the trailer at 4:30 am, cloudy, rained in the afternoon, high in the 60’s

Travel: Just to the Chevy dealer for an oil change, rotation and maintenance

An opportunity to start a book about Fort Macon and title pictures.

WEDNESDAY December 3, 2014

Weather: mid 50’s got up to the mid 60’s foggy until 1pm, sunny then the rain/fog closed in again

Travel: Another full day. A lot of travel today – left at 0630 to get to Ninety-Six. This will eliminate some miles back to this area next year. Returned about 1830.

150 NINETY-SIX NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Ninety Six, SC

Ninety-Six

This is another of South Carolina’s little known contributions to the defeat of Loyalist/British forces in the Revolutionary War.

The park has a short film narrated by Trace Adkins, explaining the history of Ninety-Six. There is a one mile asphalt paved trail that leads to the trenches/saps, “Star Fort,” location of the village, and a reconstructed stockade fort. Additionally, there are plenty of hiking trails in the park.. Plan a minimum of 1-2 hours – but a half day or more if walking all the trails.

Ninety-Six is the name of a town. It’s origins are really unknown, however, Ninety-Six was a frontier village and the heart of British South Carolina defenses in 1781.

BACKGROUND: The Patriots in Fort Moultrie drove off a Loyalist/British fleet at Charles Town in 1776. In May 1780 the Loyalists gained control of Charles Town and an army under Gen Lord Cornwallis was poised to control all of SC and move north. Then came Patriot victories at Kings Mountain (Jan 1781) and Cowpens (1781). A resurgent Continental Army led by Nathanial Greene was forced from the field at Guilford Courthouse ( 1781) but at such a cost that Cornwallis had to retreat toward the coast. Greene did not pursue Cornwallis but decided to reduce the backcountry posts held by the British. Ninety-Six was one of those posts.

Ninety-Six - The Star Fort

Ninety-Six
the Rifle Tower

Ninety-Six - walking trail
fort and field tower in the
background

Interesting to note that this is the second battle of Ninety-Six: Patriots at Ninety-Six defeated Loyalists in 1775. The Revolution may have been more of a Civil War than many of us think. Of the 550 Loyalist soldiers at Ninety-Six in 1781 only one officer was from England. The remaining 549 were all American born.

In reality Ninety-Six was not a battle as a siege - at 28 days the longest siege of the Revolutionary War. The Loyalists had built a stockade around the village and a very strong “Star Fort” with a covered way/communication connected it to the village. The “Star Fort” was too strong for Greene’s 1000 man force to attack. He was convinced by Thaddeus Kosciuszko to lay siege. Kosciuszko, a military engineer, supervised the building of saps and trenches and a mine to take the fort. Kosciuszko was trained in the classical methods of European warfare – siege warfare was an unknown art to the Americans. Siege was the process of surrounding an enemy’s strong point and slowly cutting off contact with the outside world.

The Patriot’s even built a 30 foot log tower close to the fort and stationed marksmen to suppress Loyalist cannon and musket fire.

Ninety-Six - Forlorn Hope

When Greene learned that a British relief force of 2,000 from Charles Town was coming to the relief of Ninety-Six he resolved to storm the fort. COL Henry “Light-horse Harry” Lee captured a small stockade fort on the opposite of the “Star Fort.” Greene asked for 50 volunteers “a forlorn hope” to storm the fort, cut through the stakes extended from the fort and pull the sandbags on the top of the earthen wall down in preparation for a follow-on main attack. The Loyalist commander, LTC John Cruger (an American), ordered his soldiers in the ditch surrounding the fort from a back way. Thirty of the Patriot force were killed or wounded – the remainder captured. The repulse decided the contest. The rescue column was close and Greene withdrew. The Loyalist ordered to burn the fort and village and move to a post nearer the coast.

On review, Ninety-Six was closer to Kings Mountain State Park than to Short Stay Rec Area. I should have visited here when I was at Kings Mountain.

Fort Jackson Golf Club

G O L F – Fort Jackson, SC Columbia, SC I had hoped to golf here, there are 2 18 hole “championship” golf course, the club house looks as good – maybe better than many Country Clubs I’ve visited, but - - - - the number of people reminded me of a summer Saturday afternoon at a municipal course in Milwaukee. I didn’t have a tee time – it looked/felt too “clicky” - I took a scorecard, bought a logo ball for the “Old Hickory” course and drove 20 minutes to Congaree National Park.

151 CONGAREE NATIONAL PARK -

A good choice over the golf at Fort Jackson. I walked a 2 ½ boardwalk trail. Someone put

Congaree

a lot of work into this. When I asked how old the boardwalk was or what kind of maintenance was planned for it, the Volunteer had no idea. Didn’t matter – it was the end of the day and I just made it back before sunset – but there are plenty of other trails to walk. I wish I had more time. I’ve never heard so many birds – singing – it was sort of primeval – no bugs – but squirrels and even some small feral pigs.

Congaree National Park is situated along the Congaree River in South Carolina –a 22,000 acre contiguous area of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest. This bottomland or floodplain forest is a wetland system of the Congaree River.

Congaree National Park - map

Until the latter half of the 1800’s, there were more than 52 million acres of floodplain forests in the southeastern US – with more than 1 million acres in SC alone. The remnants not cut by the ax or plowed under were drowned by reservoirs.

Congaree swamp

Congaree forest

Congaree’s forest escaped cutting due to the difficulty of logging in the wetland and to the timber conservation ethic of Francis Beidler, whose lumber company purchased bottomland forests in SC between 1890 and 1905. Limited logging along the Congaree ceased on the 1950’s and conservationist Harry Hampton recognized the Congaree as one of the few remaining ecosystems of its kind.

When logging again threatened the area in the 70’s a public campaign led Congress to establish Congaree Swamp National Monument in 1976. It became a National Park in 2003

Most of the park is designated Wilderness. Motors (vehicle or boat) are not allowed. There are canoe trails and primitive campsites.

Wilderness is meant to protect forever both the land’s natural conditions and opportunities for solitude and primitive recreation and scientific, educational and historical values.

This was better than a round of golf – wish I had had more time.

THURSDAY December 4, 2014

Weather: mid 50’s again for a low – foggy – then cloudy

Travel: stayed at Short Stay

St. Barbara’s Day – martyr – patron of Field Artillery. Wheat is often associated with the feast of St. Barbara because legend says that as she was escaping Roman persecution, she fled through a field of wheat. The wheat grew instantly covering her path and allowing her to escape – this time.

Wreck-It Ralph (South Carolina Demolition) arrived around 8am – took down an old block- concrete shower house – they were done by noon.

I spent all day rearranging the first three months of 2015 schedule; making RV site reservations. I locked in the trips to Belize, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. Found a deal on a one-way Miami to San Juan, Puerto Rico flight; $160 on DELTA, of course it goes to Atlanta first. Still need to reserve hotels and rental cars.

Of course I don’t follow my own advice last year, I made notes on my spreadsheet to make reservations for the Everglades and some Florida Army Corps of Engineer sites in February 2014 – of course they’re booked already – more change.

The actual dates of the Tennessee golf trip will also necessitate some changes – got to work on that.

FRIDAY December 5, 2014

Weather: started out in the mid 40’s then up to the mid 50’s again - cloudy

Travel: Short Stay Naval Rec Center (Moncks Corner, SC) to Fort Stewart, GA (Savannah, GA). A drive of 178 miles – about 3.5 hours – driving on Interstate I-23/I-95 most of the way. When you get off I-95 and onto GA 144 you are literally in Fort Stewart but it’s another 17 miles to the gate – Holbrook if about 3 miles east of the gate.

Taylors Creek GC
Fort Stewart, GA

Holbrook Rec Center is better than I expected. There are only 20 RV sites – concrete pads, electric and water – no sewer or cable. Reservations only 30 days or less in advance. However, a lot of activities - Holbrook Pond puts Round Pond at West Point to shame. They are getting ready for the Holiday of Lights – a lot of decorations with lights – soldiers and their families will be able to drive through next weekend, hay rides, Santa – the whole shebang.

G O L F Taylors Creek Golf Course. I shot a 49 with 18 putts- just can’t get to the greens in 2 strokes. A nice course – very flat – very fine sand (only found a trap once) – course is in the middle of the post. Fort Stewart is home of the 3^rd Infantry Division.

SATRURDAY December 6, 2014

Weather: 50’s in the morning, very foggy, cleared up around 11 am, got up to 72

Travel: Holbrook to Pulaski NM about an hour drive

ST NICHOLAS DAY - WHY CELEBRATE?

• To learn about the true Santa Claus and Father Christmas: St. Nicholas, a man of faith who lived his life in devotion to Christ
• To focus on giving more than receiving: St. Nicholas cared for the needy
• To emphasize small treats and family fun: St. Nicholas loved children
• To provide a bit of special festivity early in the waiting weeks of Advent: St. Nicholas points to Jesus, the heart of Christmas
• To offer a spiritual dimension to gift giving
• To tell the story of a Christian saint whose model life inspires compassion and charity
• To honor St. Nicholas honors the Christ Child who selflessly gave the greatest gift of all—himself

152 FORT PULASKI NATIONAL HISTORICAL SITE, Savannah, Georgia

Another gem. A nice park/fort. Like Fort Moultrie – a place kids can enjoy/explore and not get all caught up, too much, in the history. There are plenty of passageways, magazines and ramparts to explore. Fort Pulaski has a small visitor center with a 17 minute film and a Sutlers Store in the fort.

This is one park that describes the Battle for Fort Pulaski (April 10, 1862) in detail . Go to http://www.nps.gov/fopu/historyculture/battle-for-fort-pulaski.htm for the National Park interpretation of the battle.

Fort Pulaski was deemed an impregnable brick fort, except for the development of the rifled gun. Like Fort Macon the Commanding Officer, Confederate COL Charles H. Olmsted, facing ultimate defeat surrendered before the federal guns hit his magazines and store of black powder.

Fort Pulaski - Federal Bombardment

The federal bombardment signaled the ‘end of an era.’ Federal Engineer CPT Quincy A. Gilmore believed that an overwhelming bombardment would force the confederates to surrender. He erected 11 batteries containing 36 guns and mortars under the cover of darkness. On April 10, 1862 Gilmore asked for the formal surrender of the fort. COL Olmsted refused, believing that the federal guns were too far away to do any damage. However, Gilmore had 10 new experimental rifled cannon whose projectiles shattered the walls of the fort with astonishing effect.

Fort Pulaski

By noon, the second day, the bombardment had opened wide gaps in the southeast angle and shells threatened the powder magazine. COL Olmsted concerned for the lives of his men, surrendered rather than risk the explosion of 30,000 lbs of black powder.

Olmsted and 384 officers and men were eventually sent north and imprisoned at Governor’s Island in New York City harbor. The city of Savannah did not fall to Federal troops until Sherman’s troops forced surrender in early 1865.

Fort Pulaski - map

It can be difficult to understand the original geography of the fort – the coastline has changed. Like Fort Pillow in Tennessee, where the course of the Mississippi River changed – no longer flowing past the fort – it can be difficult to get a feel for the location of the federal guns.

Casimir Pulaski

Fort Pulaski - Battle Damage

Fort Pulaski was built as part of the US coastal defense system adopted by James Madison after the War of 1812. It was named after Count Casimir Pulaski, a Polish hero of the American Revolution who was mortally wounded in the unsuccessful siege of Savannah in 1779. Construction began in 1829 and required 25 million bricks and 18 years of labor to finish. This was Engineer Officer LT Robert E. Lee’s first assignment after graduation from West Point.

Ohio State annihilated UW 59-0

SUNDAY December 7, 2014

Weather: 50’s in the morning, drizzle – rain got very windy by 3 pm

Travel: Holbrook to Kings Bay – a 90 mile drive to the Florida/Georgia border about 2 hours

“Sunday December 7 – a day that will live in infamy” FDR

Kings Bay Sub Base
Strategic Weapons Facility

Kings Bay Sub Base
Chapel

MASS 0900 Main Post Chapel – Fort Stewart, GA This chapel was some Chaplain’s dream – it’s huge – probably can double as a theatre – meeting hall. Second Sunday of Advent – the beginning of the gospel fooled me – I thought it was the start of Matthew – “prep – but it was Mark.

Eagle Hammock RV Park - Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, Kings Bay GA is a gem. This is definitely the best military RV park I’ve visited – in fact it is probably the best RV park I’ve visited period. A fitting way to end the year. Plenty of room between sites, concrete pads, in the open not under trees but surrounded by trees and water. A Community Center with full kitchen couches, TV, pc for use, shower house, great WIFI that works, free laundry, a friendly host. I am very, very impressed. I’m in the high priced neighborhood – a site on the lake - $21 per night.

Kings Bay is 1000 times better than Groton sub base in CT.

MONDAY December 8, 2014

Weather: 50’s in the morning, drizzle – rain got very windy by 3 pm

Travel: Kings Bay to Cumberland Island National Seashore (7 miles) to Fort Frederica (48 miles from Kings Bay) and back again.

153 CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEAHORE St. Mary’s GA

Cumberland Island
National Seashore

When I arrived at the Visitor Center, I asked what is there to do on the island? The ranger answered ‘shelling, birding, hiking, camping.’ He didn’t sound very convincing. Never mentioned - that taking the 0900 ferry meant staying on the island all day. Never mentioned - the ranger tours; never mentioned - the historic sites; never mentioned – bicycles may be for rent; never mentioned that there is an all day guided ranger tour. It was a miserable day anyway so I passed but DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE YOU VISIT. I’d like to re-visit, but Like some other sites run by the park service, the rangers here appear to lack something.

Cumberland Island National Seashore - amp

Another ferry ride, however, it was 49 degrees, the ferry leaves at 9 am – returns at 5:30 pm – I think I’ll let it warm up a bit. This is a whole day trip. There are no cars on the island but you can sign up for a guided all-day tour. There are no snack bars or gifts shops – when you come to visit come prepared. Maybe - I‘ll return on Thursday – when it warms up.

The island is 18 miles long and shelters 36,000 acres of pristine maritime forests, beach, fresh water lakes, and saltwater marshes. Over 9,800 acres has been deemed Wilderness. Cumberland is the largest and southern most of Georgia’s barrier islands. It’s a 15 minute drive from where I’m staying. You can camp on the island – but remember no supplies are available on the island – campfires are not permitted – bring a portable stove. Bicycles are available for rental during the season.

The Spanish and then the British occupied Cumberland – those sites are lost to time. Revolutionary War hero Nathanial Greene was granted land on Cumberland in 1783. His widow built a 4 story home and named it Dungeness. Thomas Carnegie began building on Dungeness’s foundations in 1884. The ruins of the mansion remain today.

In the 1890’s The Settlement was established for African-American workers. The First African Baptist Church was built in 1893 and rebuilt in 1937. The Plum Orchard mansion was built by Carnegie’s son George in 1898. Carnegie family members donated it to the National Park Foundation in 1971. Congress created Cumberland Island National Seashore in 1972.

154 FORT FREDERICA NATIONAL MONUMENT Simons Island, GA

This is a nice park – there really is no fort – only the powder magazine remains - the town is a continuing archeological adventure. This is a place to visit if you want to spend $3 for a walk the park. The Visitor Center does show a film about the history of Frederica. Not worth much more than an hour plus visit. Volunteer here asked for ID to match my Senior Park Pass – not very trusting. Come on - it’s a Monday, in December, and I’m trying to cheat the government out of $3? Give me a break. This is only the 2^nd place in my travels that asked for ID to match the signature on the card. Really?

Fort Frederica

This was another settlement of Georgia founded by James Oglethorpe. From 1736 –1749 the fort and its regimental garrison were the hub of British operations on Georgia’s frontier. Named after the British King, it was in an area of “disputed territory” i.e. disputed/claimed by both Spain and England.

In 1742 Frederica was a settlement of 800.

Fort Frederica
Walkway

There was still a struggle for Empire along the Georgia border. Both Spain and England claimed the land between Charles Town and St. Augustine. Oglethorpe’s settlement on St. Simon’s Island had a military purpose, as well as, settlement. They built the fort of “tappy” – a concrete like mixture using burnt oyster shells, sand and lime – pouring it in molds and letting it dry. Homes were then covered with wood planks.

Oglethorpe laid out 84 lots most 60 x 90 feet. Each family received 50 country acres for crops. Orange trees shaded the main road through the town.

Spain saw the Georgia settlements as a threat to its interests in Florida. In 1737 Oglethorpe returned to England and raised a 630 man regiment, eight companies of infantry and one of grenadiers. The regiment returned to Frederica in 1738. In 1739 Spain went to war with England over the slave trade.

Oglethorpe enclosed the settlement with an earthen wall and a 10 ft wide moat. In 1740 Oglethorpe set out to capture St. Augustine. With 930 men and 1,100 Indian allies he could not break the defenses of Castillo de San Marcos. Frustrated he returned to Frederica.

Fort Frederica

The Spanish, now with 50 sailing ships and 2,000 troops threatened Oglethorpe’s position in 1742. The Spanish captured nearby Fort St. Simons and proceeded to Frederica. An advance column of Spaniards reached Frederica but were ambushed by a British force from the fort – the Battle of Bloody Marsh. There were few casualties but the Spanish eventually left the island.

It was said the Frederica was “born of war, expired with peace.” Oglethorpe returned to England in 1743 and in 1749 the regiment was disbanded. Without the soldiers money the town could not prosper – Frederica had outlived its purpose - by 1758 it had fell into ruin.

155 FORT CAROLINE NATIONAL MEMORIAL, Jacksonville, FL

Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve
Fort Caroline National Memorial

Now this is interesting – because Caroline was a French fort in Florida. I just don’t remember much said of this in US history. The Visitor Center of Fort Caroline is co-located with that of Timucuan Ecological & Historical Preserve. The Volunteer was not very helpful – more interested in his phone calls – however – when he went to lunch the rangers were more than helpful providing background answering questions – they made it a pleasant visit.

Not much here – in fact the historians/archeologists are not really sure of the exact location of the fort or even what the fort looked like. But a representation has been built.

HISTORY:

France’s first attempt to permanent claim in North America was La Caroline, a settlement near the mouth of the St. John River in Florida. Initially a commercial venture, religious conflict in France led to La Caroline being a place of refuge for Huguenots (French Protestants).

Fort Caroline - Building la Caroline

Jean Ribault left France in 1562 . He erected a monument at the River of May (St John’s River). Some men remained behind but eventually returned to France.

Fort Caroline - Bloody Massacre

Admiral Gaspard de Coligny in 1564 planned a permanent settlement with 200 skilled artisans, soldiers, and a few women. The expedition was led by Rene de Goulaine de Laudonniere. They started building a fort and named it La Caroline (land of Charles) after their King Charles IX. In 1565 Ribault arrived with supplies and 600 soldiers and settlers.

Learning that Ribault had left for Florida, King Philip II of Spain sent Admiral Pedro Menendez to dislodge the French. Ribault sailed down the coast to destroy the Spanish but a hurricane scattered his ships and he landed far to the south of St. Augustine.

Fort Carloine - map

Menendez then marched north with 500 soldiers to attack the weakly guarded colony. On September 20, 1565 his troops massacred 140 settlers, sparing only 60 women and children. Forty to fifty, including Laudonniere, escaped and sailed to France. Menendez then marched south and found the shipwrecked Frenchmen. He found them to be heretics. At a place called Matanzas (slaughter) he killed about 350 men – all but a few professing to be Catholics and a few musicians.

The French got their revenge when Dominique de Gourgues attacked and burned the fort killing all who did not escape. Spain rebuilt the fort in 1569 but later abandoned the fort. France never again strongly challenged Spanish claims in North America.

156 TIMUCUAN ECOLOGICAL & HISTORICAL PRESERVE Jacksonville, FL

Timucuan Visitor Center

Timucuan Owl Totem

The Timucuan were a pre-Columbian people who have left some clues to their existence. The most easily recognized are the mounds of shells found throughout the preserve. The Indians who met the first European’s in the mid-1500’s are today known as the Timucua. The Timucua represents a number of cultural traditions that had been defined by a shared language.

The Timucua first met European’s in 1562 when French settlers arrived at the “River of May” (St. John’s River). The Spanish later drove out the French. European diseases devastated the Timucua. By 1698 only 550 Timucua remained out a population that had numbered in the tens of thousands. Today there are no known native Americans who call themselves Timucua.

The Visitor Center has a unique artifact. The Owl Totem is apparently the oldest surviving totem of a culture east of the Mississippi River. .

Established in 1988, the 46,000 acre preserve includes Fort Caroline National Memorial, the Theodore Roosevelt Area, Kingsley Plantation (a seasonal contact center) and thousands of acres of woods, water and salt marsh. Plenty of trails to walk.

Naval Station Mayport is at the mouth of the St. John’s River.

Kings Bay Sub Base Chapel
St Francis of Assissi

1800 Mass Chapel Kings Bay Submarine Base, GA St. Francis of Assisi. A nice chapel – many parishioners very formal – stylized. Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Small 3 voice choir who you really couldn’t hear – probably a good thing and a pianist who could sing. The priest/chaplain – homily on Mary – gave advice on how to answer those who don’t believe Mary was without sin – ever i.e. 1) would Christ, the son of God really be born to someone who had sinned? succumbed to Satan’s temptation? Probably because only 2% of Georgia is Catholic.

GREEN BAY 43 vs ATLANTA 37. The game started at 2030 EST. It was on ESPN – I never bother to hook up cable – probably would not have watched much of the game anyway. The Pack stands at 10-3. Still one ahead of the Lions. They still play the Bills, Buccaneers and the Lions.

TUESDAY December 9, 2014

Weather: 52 in the trailer at 5 am - 42 outside– clear sky – no wind. Sweater weather, high 50’s. The forecast calls for freeze warnings this evening.

Travel: Holbrook to Castillo de San Marcos, then Fort Matanzas – both south of St. Augustine.

157 CASTILLO DE SAN MARCOS NATIONAL MONUMENT, St. Augustine, FL

Castillo de San Marcos

I’ve been here twice before in 1971 and 1972 – a long time ago. I really didn’t remember much of the interior of the fort. There is a fee for entry – you can spend a little more than an hour here. Not as interesting as Fort Pulaski, Fort Moultrie or even Fort Macon – this is Spanish history and it’s located as a prime tourist attraction.

Castillo de San Marcos is another of those – I’ve got to visit this – if you visit St. Augustine. The fortress was laid out by Spanish engineer Ignacio Daza. The fort is a hollow square with diamond-shaped bastions at each corner with only one way in or out. There are plenty of rooms to explore and you can take the stairway to a wide gun deck. The fort has a commanding position.

Ponce de Leon named this land “la florida” – land of flowers in 1513.

Castillo de San Marcos
model

Castillo de San Marcos is the oldest masonry and best preserved example of Spanish colonial fortification in the United States. The fort protected St. Augustine from pirate raids and from Great Britain, Spain’s greatest rival in the New World.

Although Spain’s greatest rival was Great Britain read the background on Fort Caroline above to discover how the Spanish and French clashed. After France, England became the next contender for Spain’s New World empire. Sir Francis Drake attacked and burned St. Augustine in 1586 – long before the settlement of Jamestown in 1607.

Castillo de San Marcos
empty moat

Construction of the fort began in 1672 and was completed in 1695. The Castillo replaced nine successive wooden fortifications that had protected St. Augustine.

The English unsuccessfully besieged the fort in 1702 for 50 days.

The Spanish governor at St. Augustine granted freedom to English runaway slaves – the black families settled the town called Fort Mose.

St. Augustine again endured another English siege in 1740. Fort Matanzas was built in order to block the southern approach to St. Augustine.

The 1763 Peace of Paris gave Florida to the British. Castillo was called Fort St. Mark.

The 1783 Peace of Paris recognized the independence of the United States and gave Florida back to Spain.

In 1821 Spain ceded Florida to the US. In 1825 the fort was renamed Fort Marion by the US.

In 1924 Fort Marion and Matanzas were proclaimed national monuments. By 1935 the National Park Service began exclusive administration of both monuments. The original name Castillo de San Marcos was restored in 1942.

158 FORT MATANZAS NATIONAL MONUMENT, St. Augustine, FL

Fort Matanzas
National Monument

Matanzas means “massacre” to read about the death of 250 Frenchmen from Fort Caroline read above about Fort Caroline. There has been no evidence ever found of where the massacre took place – but it did occur – it is well documented.

Fort Matanzas ferry
from the parapet of the
fort

Fort Matanzas

There is a short ferry ride to the Fort and a short nature trail on the shore site. Plan about 2 hours for your visit. There is a short film but no museum. The ferry ride is free – courtesy of the NPS.

The fort in reality is actually a tower built of coquina – a local shell stone by burning oyster shells. The fort is built on pine pilings driven deep into the marshy ground. The fort was manned by 6 soldiers and one officers. The soldiers shared one room; the officer had a room of his own. The soldiers length of tour at Matanzas was for one month.

Fort Matanzas - cannon

The fort covered Matanzas Inlet with 5 guns: 4 six pounders and 1 eighteen pounder. The fort fired its guns to warn an approaching vessel – the fort never received any incoming fire. The warning shot made would be aggressors turn away. After thwarting British attempts to gain the inlet in 1742 the fort never again fired its guns in battle.

WEDNESDAY December 10, 2014

Weather:

Travel:

Did laundry and went to the base exchange. I’ll store the trailer here on base but a cab ride to the airport is $65 one way – plus tip. The cab company here at St. Mary’s cannot pick up at the airport, the airport cabs can’t get past the gate – for $30 more I’ll park my truck at the airport – with less hassle. Firmed up Belize and Virgin Island reservations. Checked out the golf course – I may stay around here tomorrow rather than go to on an all day Cumberland Island tour.

THURSDAY December 11, 2014

Weather: 43 in the trailer at 5 am probably near freezing, no frost on the truck. Sunny got up to the high 50’s.

Travel: stayed on Kings Bay Sub Base

Washed the truck – cleaned trailer – packed essentials for Caribbean journey in Jan-Feb - completed Christmas shopping.

FRIDAY December 12, 2014

Weather: 43 in the trailer at 5 am – frost on the truck windows

Travel: stowed the trailer at Kings Bay. Drove to the airport. Will return in January 2015

Merry Christmas – Happy New Year 2015

Tuesday, June 30, 2020